My observations and opinions of current street/strip turbo LS trends.
08-13-2012, 04:39 PM
#61
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
i partialy agree with the op when it comes to people putting the wrong parts on their car and then they complain about it when everyone told them like "that 68mm is kinda small, wont get where you want it",
!!! but !!! there is also a huge problem of over bias rich guys on here that only buy this part that only go with this company that only talk to you if you got this part only and wont tell you anything else. it get to the point where people get tire of hearing the same thing and want to know...
"well what about this?" ok it didnt work.... but why?
then there that akward 3 months of no posting or the thread you post turns into a flame session about how husky tools are better then craftmen.... THERE THE SAME F$%$ING THING!!!!
but this is the usual format of thread latly:
somthing like "i have this "sized" part and want this HP number......"
then a guy comes in and says "F THAT, get this and you can get this higher HP number. all you gotta do is SELL YOUR SOUL and put a morgage on your children. but its totally worth it."
then you say "that cool, thanks. but i only really want this lower HP number to have fun with my car"
then the other guys, as if butt hurt, is like "F YOU and YOUR FING CAR!!!! i hope it blowsup on the track with your crapy little setup and youll only run 11's with you crappy wimppy setup! my ***** are bigger then yours!! my car has "ALL THIS STORE BOUGHT PERFORMANCE PARTS MADE IN AMERICA THAT SUCH AN SUCH COMPANY SAID IS THE BEST EVER ON EARTH AND EVERYONE ELSE'S IS GARBAGE, DONT BUY THERES< BUY MINE!!!!"
then you go, "thanks dude, ill keep that in mind...." and then disappear of the forum for 6 months cause theres NOTHING WORTH reading for about that long.
thats kinda how the forums go, so its hard to be "REGULAR" person when everyone thinks they are a mechanical engineer on here.
Now im all for loyalty and quality if its just that. but if an affordible cheaper version of that quality part is avilible and has the same quality... isnt it just that? a quality item? it comes to a point where all you are doing is buying a name at times anymore its getting tiresome when alot of parts are throw around just becuase of a name. even if a cheap version of it looks and performs EXACTLY like the other. and also, alot of you guys need to get it in your head that some of use dont want a 1000RWHP car and dont need that $2000 part to get us there if only want a 500-700rwhp car with a part that only costs $500 to get us there safely and just as efficnetly.
also, the american made thing... get over yourselves. you do realize your driving a CANADIAN MADE CAR.. or even worse MEXICO!! 2 plants made f-bodys can you guess where they were? cant speak for 5th gens but us lower gens... hows the weather ah?
Oh and bosch is a german company, most electronics are made in japan or korea, and china makes everything else. the shirt or shoe your wearing is most liky made in china, mexico, hondurous, singapore, or vietnam. face it, most of your stuff is made out side the use now day so get over it or brign back our american companys to the USA. sorry to say guys but our cars suck compared to a lambo, ferrari, porche, Bugatti or BMW... all made out of the good old USA. the day FORD starts making a Ferrari or Lambo, IM SWITCHING TO FORD.
wants and needs are two different things. budget does have a place in the ls world you just got to know where to put it. you dont need a 4000 stall if you dont ever drag your car. you dont need a 102mm turbo if your only looking for 600hp and an operating RPM range for 1000-6500rpm. you dont need to hack saw crap off your car if you can unbolt it just as easliy. guys need to quite posting "THE ULTIMATE DRAG RACING MOTOR EVER IN THE HISTORY OF CARS WITH A 200MM TURBO!!!!!" in a guys thread that only asked... "hey, i got a daily driver and would like to know whats a good sized turbo for 500HP?"
yes the guys asking questions need to read the threads and ask accordingly but you "GURUS" need to also stop putting you die hard trailer queen infos on there threads too. its not helpful. if a guy asked about whats a good street cam, dont tell him f that and go get the "THUMPER CAM FROM HELL!!! IT EATS CHILDREN AND CRAPS OUTS SMALL PUPPYS!!!" that doesnt help AT ALL and then turns the threa into a, no this cams better that cams ok that cam sucks the sweat off a camals *****... not helpful either.
sorry to rant as well, but i get just as upset, AS A MECHANIC MYSELF, when I see people ask questions, legitimate questions that they want to know about and they usually 1 of 3 things.
1) made to feel like an idiot/retard and told to do a search and not to waste the other persons time on the forum... like they are god or somthing. if you dont have time to post the answer or at least a link. dont post at all.
2) the usual do this dont do that between tow other people that hate each other for some reason and turn it into all about them. i dont know how many times ive felt like a mod trying to change the subject back to what the OP was talking abuot and im NOT a mod...
3) sometimes!! just once in a blue moon the op gets their anwser and all is well in the force. and the thread ends there until someone digs it up and finds it usfull again.
the 3rd one is so hard to get sometimes now latlely like my case in point abuot somthing like rear turbos... EVERYTIME!!!!! we ask about them.... unless you stay hoverign around zombies thread, everyone gets troll shotgun blasted in the motherboard cause all you front mount guys didnt do it right the first time so you went front mounted and now troll and lurk the forums waiting for an unsupecting noob to ask a question NOT in Zombies, 1320, ZL1killer, and now mine for the most part thread, cause you couldnt do it so your throwing a fit like my 2 year old when someone doest say what he likes. got it they aint efficient... NEXT TOPIC. HOW CAN WE MAKE IT MORE EFFICIENT? lets use that for next time kiddys.
to wrap up my little rant lol
the OPs need to be more observant and listen more before they post and the older, richer, more experience guys need to remember where they came from. kinda reminds me of the army. nobody started off a General or a Master Sergant. had to start out as a retarded Lietenant and a dumbfounded Private. you generals need to rememebr to help out your privates alittle. and if they dont listen... let them learn on their own. how does one learn if they dont FAIL first. yeah, it cost money, but you gotta pay to play. even if its alot or a little.
done ranting, carry on lol
!!! but !!! there is also a huge problem of over bias rich guys on here that only buy this part that only go with this company that only talk to you if you got this part only and wont tell you anything else. it get to the point where people get tire of hearing the same thing and want to know...
"well what about this?" ok it didnt work.... but why?
then there that akward 3 months of no posting or the thread you post turns into a flame session about how husky tools are better then craftmen.... THERE THE SAME F$%$ING THING!!!!
but this is the usual format of thread latly:
somthing like "i have this "sized" part and want this HP number......"
then a guy comes in and says "F THAT, get this and you can get this higher HP number. all you gotta do is SELL YOUR SOUL and put a morgage on your children. but its totally worth it."
then you say "that cool, thanks. but i only really want this lower HP number to have fun with my car"
then the other guys, as if butt hurt, is like "F YOU and YOUR FING CAR!!!! i hope it blowsup on the track with your crapy little setup and youll only run 11's with you crappy wimppy setup! my ***** are bigger then yours!! my car has "ALL THIS STORE BOUGHT PERFORMANCE PARTS MADE IN AMERICA THAT SUCH AN SUCH COMPANY SAID IS THE BEST EVER ON EARTH AND EVERYONE ELSE'S IS GARBAGE, DONT BUY THERES< BUY MINE!!!!"
then you go, "thanks dude, ill keep that in mind...." and then disappear of the forum for 6 months cause theres NOTHING WORTH reading for about that long.
thats kinda how the forums go, so its hard to be "REGULAR" person when everyone thinks they are a mechanical engineer on here.
Now im all for loyalty and quality if its just that. but if an affordible cheaper version of that quality part is avilible and has the same quality... isnt it just that? a quality item? it comes to a point where all you are doing is buying a name at times anymore its getting tiresome when alot of parts are throw around just becuase of a name. even if a cheap version of it looks and performs EXACTLY like the other. and also, alot of you guys need to get it in your head that some of use dont want a 1000RWHP car and dont need that $2000 part to get us there if only want a 500-700rwhp car with a part that only costs $500 to get us there safely and just as efficnetly.
also, the american made thing... get over yourselves. you do realize your driving a CANADIAN MADE CAR.. or even worse MEXICO!! 2 plants made f-bodys can you guess where they were? cant speak for 5th gens but us lower gens... hows the weather ah?
Oh and bosch is a german company, most electronics are made in japan or korea, and china makes everything else. the shirt or shoe your wearing is most liky made in china, mexico, hondurous, singapore, or vietnam. face it, most of your stuff is made out side the use now day so get over it or brign back our american companys to the USA. sorry to say guys but our cars suck compared to a lambo, ferrari, porche, Bugatti or BMW... all made out of the good old USA. the day FORD starts making a Ferrari or Lambo, IM SWITCHING TO FORD.
wants and needs are two different things. budget does have a place in the ls world you just got to know where to put it. you dont need a 4000 stall if you dont ever drag your car. you dont need a 102mm turbo if your only looking for 600hp and an operating RPM range for 1000-6500rpm. you dont need to hack saw crap off your car if you can unbolt it just as easliy. guys need to quite posting "THE ULTIMATE DRAG RACING MOTOR EVER IN THE HISTORY OF CARS WITH A 200MM TURBO!!!!!" in a guys thread that only asked... "hey, i got a daily driver and would like to know whats a good sized turbo for 500HP?"
yes the guys asking questions need to read the threads and ask accordingly but you "GURUS" need to also stop putting you die hard trailer queen infos on there threads too. its not helpful. if a guy asked about whats a good street cam, dont tell him f that and go get the "THUMPER CAM FROM HELL!!! IT EATS CHILDREN AND CRAPS OUTS SMALL PUPPYS!!!" that doesnt help AT ALL and then turns the threa into a, no this cams better that cams ok that cam sucks the sweat off a camals *****... not helpful either.
sorry to rant as well, but i get just as upset, AS A MECHANIC MYSELF, when I see people ask questions, legitimate questions that they want to know about and they usually 1 of 3 things.
1) made to feel like an idiot/retard and told to do a search and not to waste the other persons time on the forum... like they are god or somthing. if you dont have time to post the answer or at least a link. dont post at all.
2) the usual do this dont do that between tow other people that hate each other for some reason and turn it into all about them. i dont know how many times ive felt like a mod trying to change the subject back to what the OP was talking abuot and im NOT a mod...
3) sometimes!! just once in a blue moon the op gets their anwser and all is well in the force. and the thread ends there until someone digs it up and finds it usfull again.
the 3rd one is so hard to get sometimes now latlely like my case in point abuot somthing like rear turbos... EVERYTIME!!!!! we ask about them.... unless you stay hoverign around zombies thread, everyone gets troll shotgun blasted in the motherboard cause all you front mount guys didnt do it right the first time so you went front mounted and now troll and lurk the forums waiting for an unsupecting noob to ask a question NOT in Zombies, 1320, ZL1killer, and now mine for the most part thread, cause you couldnt do it so your throwing a fit like my 2 year old when someone doest say what he likes. got it they aint efficient... NEXT TOPIC. HOW CAN WE MAKE IT MORE EFFICIENT? lets use that for next time kiddys.
to wrap up my little rant lol
the OPs need to be more observant and listen more before they post and the older, richer, more experience guys need to remember where they came from. kinda reminds me of the army. nobody started off a General or a Master Sergant. had to start out as a retarded Lietenant and a dumbfounded Private. you generals need to rememebr to help out your privates alittle. and if they dont listen... let them learn on their own. how does one learn if they dont FAIL first. yeah, it cost money, but you gotta pay to play. even if its alot or a little.
done ranting, carry on lol
Last edited by JoshuaGrooms83; 08-13-2012 at 04:51 PM.
08-13-2012, 05:11 PM
#63
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
lol no drugs, just one rant went into another and apparntly i now have a term paper on here lol sorry
its just getting to the point where you get tired of hearing operator error when somtimes... its the operation.
the forum is hitting critical mass where a topic is searched and too much garbage is posted to get an actual awnser so people start posting more questions and over and over and over a vicous cycle.
take pushrod length for example, and you get 10 pages of hits. OK cool.
out of all those 10 pages with 100 or so threads, only 2 or 3 actually have the correct push rod lenth. it took me a week to find it in this forum. i knew it was 7.4 but wanted to be sure. i wanted to know what about a ls6 head and cam. took me a week. most threads went with get a checker and that was it. one guy got talked into getting 317 heads for his NA build while another guy was trying to figure out what happens when you mill or weld in 317s over getting 243/799 heads... WHY!!! you get the SAME DAMN THING!!! in a push rod thread..... can you feel my frustration?
its just getting to the point where you get tired of hearing operator error when somtimes... its the operation.
the forum is hitting critical mass where a topic is searched and too much garbage is posted to get an actual awnser so people start posting more questions and over and over and over a vicous cycle.
take pushrod length for example, and you get 10 pages of hits. OK cool.
out of all those 10 pages with 100 or so threads, only 2 or 3 actually have the correct push rod lenth. it took me a week to find it in this forum. i knew it was 7.4 but wanted to be sure. i wanted to know what about a ls6 head and cam. took me a week. most threads went with get a checker and that was it. one guy got talked into getting 317 heads for his NA build while another guy was trying to figure out what happens when you mill or weld in 317s over getting 243/799 heads... WHY!!! you get the SAME DAMN THING!!! in a push rod thread..... can you feel my frustration?
08-13-2012, 05:52 PM
#68
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
yes and no. my bad for my rant.
but it does somewhat apply to the turbo section. i was merely using examples. you can find all day long about turbo stuff and how people dont know where to start. no wonder it took me 2 years to finally buy my turbo.
turbo science is tricky and parts need to be put together carfully, is what i get. the other stuff like "what brand tube to get" and "get this and that parts" are the things that get people twisted around and confused on here.
but it does somewhat apply to the turbo section. i was merely using examples. you can find all day long about turbo stuff and how people dont know where to start. no wonder it took me 2 years to finally buy my turbo.
turbo science is tricky and parts need to be put together carfully, is what i get. the other stuff like "what brand tube to get" and "get this and that parts" are the things that get people twisted around and confused on here.
08-13-2012, 05:52 PM
#69
We have a decent thread here (about guidelines on running an effective turbo setup from some reputable vendors with real world knowledge), and you're shitting in it. If you base all of your information solely on what random, inexperienced people post in threads, then you deserve the results you achieve. This is 2012, not 1987, and the internet has been around for years now - use your own filter. But maybe you're just pissed off that it is harder to obtain parts where you live, so you need to go by the discretion of random posts. Either way I'm guessing you'll have your hands full after your post. Also i just checked and 'The Weather' here is 79 degrees compared to 58 degrees in Bamberg. Eat that - Bitch! Just kidding dude. Lol.
Back on topic here. I understand a bigger turbine is the key with bigger cubic inch, but where is the point in which it starts to affect spool time?
For example, I have a 402 with a T4 PT8847, and I understand this is too small, but I'm squeezed for space. I know a 91 and up would be the correct choice for the single, but isn't the 88 at lower boost level more suited to usable power (1/4 mile times and street)? Yes I won't make peak numbers, and will have overall less boost, but won't the car work better this way? I'm using the 7675 as an example because it is a common turbo that works well, gets in boost quickly, and ppl are running quick times with it. And I think most ppl will agree that the 7675 is too small for their motor as well... but it works. Sorry for the questions, but this is for us single guys.
Last edited by hardbodeez; 08-13-2012 at 06:20 PM.
08-13-2012, 06:02 PM
#70
What is all this number talk? I always see 86/89 that, 76/78 that 37/88 90/23 blah blah blah and don't get it. I'm new to it and I have a BEP s480 t6 1.10 a/r so what number does that translate into? I could follow along better if I new the lingo better, lol
08-13-2012, 07:35 PM
#74
I agree with pretty much everything you said with the exception of cam specs. I do believe cams can be tailored much better to the combo rather than just listing out your three grinds that you've used and tuned over the years. I've seen plenty of gains in the higher RPMs on setups that have more restrictive wheels/exhaust housings by just giving it more exhaust bias and obviously setting up the events correctly helps as well without losing any low end spool/torque. That's not even talking about decreasing the propensity to detonate with "smaller" cams and fuel choices but I do understand your very generalized statements and can agree with most of it.
08-13-2012, 07:57 PM
#75
FormerVendor
Thread Starter
Fireball- Your turbines are still too small 
NicD- Just examples to form a generalized idea. I see people build stuff with stock cubes and a small single turbo with cams approaching 250 @.050 and it really is just hurting the combo at that point.
NicD- Just examples to form a generalized idea. I see people build stuff with stock cubes and a small single turbo with cams approaching 250 @.050 and it really is just hurting the combo at that point.
08-13-2012, 08:19 PM
#76
10 Second Club
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Lake Tapps, WA
Posts: 2,229
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The biggest mistake I made when learning about FI is not learning about the turbine side of the turbo. All the talk used to be about compressor wheel and not much attention given to the turbine size.
08-13-2012, 09:56 PM
#77
6 Second Club Moderator
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Lombard .IL
Posts: 3,682
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The following thoughts and rambling is directed towards what I see as the majority of the street/strip turbo LS crowd. As a disclaimer, the following is my -opinion- but it is backed by experience. Oh yeah, and I don't sugar coat things.
First off, the same with anything, a turbo LS needs to be looked at as an entire, matched combination. Set your goals first and then decide on components that will allow you to reach those goals.
That being said, big compressor wheels and tiny turbines seem to be all the rage these days. Guess it makes for an affordable turbo. It also makes for sub-par performance.
If you've decided that you absolutely must use a 76mm compressor and a 12mm turbine
, really don't even bother with a "what cam should I use" thread because if you have money for a cam that will do absolutely nothing for you, it should be spent towards a turbo that is actually capable of efficiently making power.
Why does your car nose over at 5k? Chances are your turbo belongs in the dumpster or you have way too big of an engine for your current turbo. Want to make 950rwhp and 7000rpm with a PT7675? Run a 5.3. Want to spend more money on a 408 and max out the same turbo at 775rwhp and 5200rpm? Probably not, but people do it.
Not sure why but it seems many people shy away from twin setups. Twins absolutely cannot be beat in terms of a fun street car. Even an undersized pair of twins that make nearly instant boost will still outshine most similarly capable singles up top. I don't like lag so I always run twins. And I'm not talking logged boost VS wot, I'm talking about having driven countless amount of turbo cars and knowing the difference in feel when you roll on the gas of a single or a small set of similarly capable twins. Transient response is what you feel in normal every day driving and you get it in spades with a good twin setup.
Rear mount? Sure they can be fast at the strip as you have time to get the things online while you're bumping it in. As for a fun driving combination on the street? None that I've driven accomplish that. Wouldn't use it if it was given to me. (refer to, I don't like lag so I run twins/etc/etc)
Back to the cam thing. I'll use the cams we have available as examples because well, why not. I designed them and tuned them over the years so at least I can speak about them with experience.
TUO-216/216 114lsa. I would plan on bigger if I planned on over 700rwhp.
TU1-225/225 113lsa. I may consider a bigger cam if 950rwhp wasn't enough.
TU2-236/236 112.5lsa. If you have a combo capable of 1200rwhp and 7800rpm than this cam will work great.
Guess the point I'm trying to make on cams is that I think 90% of people cheap out on their turbo then over-cam the hell out of it thinking it will somehow compensate when in reality all you did was soften up the bottom end and midrange for no gains up top.
So, in closing, if you're building or planning a build on a turbo LS and your goal is to not be disappointed, THE most important thing to buy is a good turbocharger or turbochargers. Second is valvesprings. If you cheaped out on the turbo so you could buy more cubes, a different intake manifold, a different cam, a set of heads, a throttle body, an electric water pump, or even a torque converter, you've made a poor decision.
Rant over, let the flames begin
First off, the same with anything, a turbo LS needs to be looked at as an entire, matched combination. Set your goals first and then decide on components that will allow you to reach those goals.
That being said, big compressor wheels and tiny turbines seem to be all the rage these days. Guess it makes for an affordable turbo. It also makes for sub-par performance.
If you've decided that you absolutely must use a 76mm compressor and a 12mm turbine
, really don't even bother with a "what cam should I use" thread because if you have money for a cam that will do absolutely nothing for you, it should be spent towards a turbo that is actually capable of efficiently making power. Why does your car nose over at 5k? Chances are your turbo belongs in the dumpster or you have way too big of an engine for your current turbo. Want to make 950rwhp and 7000rpm with a PT7675? Run a 5.3. Want to spend more money on a 408 and max out the same turbo at 775rwhp and 5200rpm? Probably not, but people do it.
Not sure why but it seems many people shy away from twin setups. Twins absolutely cannot be beat in terms of a fun street car. Even an undersized pair of twins that make nearly instant boost will still outshine most similarly capable singles up top. I don't like lag so I always run twins. And I'm not talking logged boost VS wot, I'm talking about having driven countless amount of turbo cars and knowing the difference in feel when you roll on the gas of a single or a small set of similarly capable twins. Transient response is what you feel in normal every day driving and you get it in spades with a good twin setup.
Rear mount? Sure they can be fast at the strip as you have time to get the things online while you're bumping it in. As for a fun driving combination on the street? None that I've driven accomplish that. Wouldn't use it if it was given to me. (refer to, I don't like lag so I run twins/etc/etc)
Back to the cam thing. I'll use the cams we have available as examples because well, why not. I designed them and tuned them over the years so at least I can speak about them with experience.
TUO-216/216 114lsa. I would plan on bigger if I planned on over 700rwhp.
TU1-225/225 113lsa. I may consider a bigger cam if 950rwhp wasn't enough.
TU2-236/236 112.5lsa. If you have a combo capable of 1200rwhp and 7800rpm than this cam will work great.
Guess the point I'm trying to make on cams is that I think 90% of people cheap out on their turbo then over-cam the hell out of it thinking it will somehow compensate when in reality all you did was soften up the bottom end and midrange for no gains up top.
So, in closing, if you're building or planning a build on a turbo LS and your goal is to not be disappointed, THE most important thing to buy is a good turbocharger or turbochargers. Second is valvesprings. If you cheaped out on the turbo so you could buy more cubes, a different intake manifold, a different cam, a set of heads, a throttle body, an electric water pump, or even a torque converter, you've made a poor decision.
Rant over, let the flames begin
08-13-2012, 11:57 PM
#78
TECH Regular
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I chose a pair of 6262's for my ls9 headed 6.0 w/220ish .580lift cam for my 800ish street car.
08-14-2012, 12:05 AM
#79
TECH Regular
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Waxahachie, Tx
Posts: 451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jim's twin 61mm F body is what pushed me over the edge to go turbo back on TTF (TMs) -a 9 sec street car..... thanks for the permanent drain on my wallet Jim.
oh and excellent post that most will forget 3 months from now.
A forged 347 with stock 243's, crank, and an LS6 cam w/918's would probably be the same or faster than Jim's old Gen II.
All you need if you can't decide what you want to do.....
These cam specs assume you don't have a tiny turbine......
800hp 88's.....wrong cam vs turbine vs CID
PT80h on a 347 would be **** 50/50 9.x index car, but twin 61's will make more power.
No money - then get a stock 5.3, LS9 cam, TC76. Not the 78, see tiny turbine above. -and start saving for bigger.....like a 7675.
Got a little more cash and want to make a T6 fit - 6.0, stock 317's, TU1 and S480 1.32 96 turbine. - It will do 8's if you can get it set up/hook. Search screen name Blown385 on TTF.- 9.4x 142mph @ 4500lbs w/S480. -dead stupid simple combo-
Wanna do 8.50's "easy" -GT4788 on a 330-350 or GT5018 on a 370.
With the supporting mods of course.
oh and excellent post that most will forget 3 months from now.
A forged 347 with stock 243's, crank, and an LS6 cam w/918's would probably be the same or faster than Jim's old Gen II.
All you need if you can't decide what you want to do.....
Oh yeah, and I don't sugar coat things.
That being said, big compressor wheels and tiny turbines seem to be all the rage these days. Guess it makes for an affordable turbo. It also makes for sub-par performance.
Transient response is what you feel in normal every day driving and you get it in spades with a good twin setup.
TUO-216/216 114lsa. I would plan on bigger if I planned on over 700rwhp.
TU1-225/225 113lsa. I may consider a bigger cam if 950rwhp wasn't enough.
TU2-236/236 112.5lsa. If you have a combo capable of 1200rwhp and 7800rpm than this cam will work great.
That being said, big compressor wheels and tiny turbines seem to be all the rage these days. Guess it makes for an affordable turbo. It also makes for sub-par performance.
Transient response is what you feel in normal every day driving and you get it in spades with a good twin setup.
TUO-216/216 114lsa. I would plan on bigger if I planned on over 700rwhp.
TU1-225/225 113lsa. I may consider a bigger cam if 950rwhp wasn't enough.
TU2-236/236 112.5lsa. If you have a combo capable of 1200rwhp and 7800rpm than this cam will work great.
800hp 88's.....wrong cam vs turbine vs CID
PT80h on a 347 would be **** 50/50 9.x index car, but twin 61's will make more power.
No money - then get a stock 5.3, LS9 cam, TC76. Not the 78, see tiny turbine above. -and start saving for bigger.....like a 7675.
Got a little more cash and want to make a T6 fit - 6.0, stock 317's, TU1 and S480 1.32 96 turbine. - It will do 8's if you can get it set up/hook. Search screen name Blown385 on TTF.- 9.4x 142mph @ 4500lbs w/S480. -dead stupid simple combo-
Wanna do 8.50's "easy" -GT4788 on a 330-350 or GT5018 on a 370.
With the supporting mods of course.