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What should your tune look like to get best 60' times?

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Old 10-03-2012, 08:33 PM
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This is the best thread I think to answer your questions Mills.

Hope I was able to help.
Old 10-03-2012, 10:00 PM
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thanks for the info martin.
Old 10-04-2012, 07:14 AM
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No problem pewter 5.3.
Old 10-12-2012, 03:18 PM
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Very interesting thread. I will have to read it about 10 times to get more understanding of it. I have just in the last couple of days tried to tune on the car a little. I was trying to tune like a N/A car using timing before boost comes in. I left the boost section of the timing table alone as I am trying to get the car to move from an idle launch. I haven't tried to brake torque the converter yet. I will do that later. I am just playing with the timing numbers from 600-3000rpm.
Old 10-12-2012, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 99VetteFRC
Very interesting thread. I will have to read it about 10 times to get more understanding of it. I have just in the last couple of days tried to tune on the car a little. I was trying to tune like a N/A car using timing before boost comes in. I left the boost section of the timing table alone as I am trying to get the car to move from an idle launch. I haven't tried to brake torque the converter yet. I will do that later. I am just playing with the timing numbers from 600-3000rpm.
If you have any further questions you can always shoot me an email or PM and I can give you my personal contact information and I can probably help you out.

I have access to the tuning computer here at the shop, but I'm so busy with valve-train stuff and answering tech questions I would never have the time to help you while I was here as tuning takes a lot of devotion and time to nail down.

Just shoot me a pm and I'll see if I can't help you out in my spare time at home as I have HPT there also.
Old 10-12-2012, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
If you have any further questions you can always shoot me an email or PM and I can give you my personal contact information and I can probably help you out.

I have access to the tuning computer here at the shop, but I'm so busy with valve-train stuff and answering tech questions I would never have the time to help you while I was here as tuning takes a lot of devotion and time to nail down.

Just shoot me a pm and I'll see if I can't help you out in my spare time at home as I have HPT there also.
Thanks for the offer and if I have questions I'll ask. Right now I am just playing with timing. I just learned to log so it is helping. I need to get to the track!!! LOL!!! I'm adjusting a little at a time and watching for KR and the more I add to the timing the better the car feels.
Old 10-13-2012, 07:30 PM
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As long as you're not adding timing in a region that will see more than 1-3psi of boost you shouldn't see any KR.
Old 10-14-2012, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
As long as you're not adding timing in a region that will see more than 1-3psi of boost you shouldn't see any KR.
I changed the timing from 16 to 19 in the boosted area, then hit it on the road and logged. There wasn't KR showing on the log. It made a noticable difference in the power.
Old 10-14-2012, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 99VetteFRC
I changed the timing from 16 to 19 in the boosted area, then hit it on the road and logged. There wasn't KR showing on the log. It made a noticable difference in the power.
When you say in the boosted area how much boost?

What is your timing right up before it transitions from 95kpa to 105kpa+?
Old 10-14-2012, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
When you say in the boosted area how much boost?

What is your timing right up before it transitions from 95kpa to 105kpa+?
The boost comes in at 3000rpm. I'll attach the tune. I was adjusting everything up to 3000, but then I didn't want it to drop off, so I changed it to drop off a little more smooth deeper in the rpm. I did make a log, wanted to make sure there was no KR.
Attached Files
File Type: hpt
timing adjust5.hpt (494.8 KB, 134 views)
File Type: hpl
momshouse.hpl (60.2 KB, 93 views)
Old 10-14-2012, 03:29 PM
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How much boost are you running? Do you have methanol injection?

There is a table under the spark tab called AFR spark correction.

This table will add spark to the spark value currently being commanded only during the time period the computer commands a certain fuel multiplier.

It looks like you're commanding between 1.21-1.28 in PE and 1.0 in your open loop fuel adder tables.

So to utilize that table you would tell the AFR spark correction table to add between 4-12 degrees of timing between 1.0 and 1.2. I would add 12 degrees at 1.0 and progressively ramp it down to 4 at 1.21-1.23. Then have it back to 0 by 1.25 where you're seeing boost.

After you do this subtract some timing from the main high octane table from 3600rpm down to 1000rpm where it looks like you've added a fair amount of timing to try and get the response up.

This method will only add the timing when you're commanding the multipliers 1.0-1.25 and then will revert back to the values you're commanding in your high octane table after 1.25.

Play with it some, but this should get you close. I've used between 28-36 degrees of timing going from vacuum to 1-3psi of boost(obviously 36* in vacuum and 28 from 1-3psi) and then ramped it out quickly to the timing value I wanted in high boost(usually 14-18 depending on boost level and what grade of gasoline being run).

These are just guidelines and not set in stone rules so follow them loosely to find what works best for your car and set-up.
Old 10-15-2012, 08:42 AM
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Wow Martin - you don't know how many of us are absorbing these past several posts of yours. Thanks for being willing to share your knowledge and experience. You will have helped several of us gain ET and possibly save and engine or twenty in the process. It's not often that a vendor is willing to share their knowledge, but it does tend to develop some long term customer loyalty.
Old 10-15-2012, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevy406
Wow Martin - you don't know how many of us are absorbing these past several posts of yours. Thanks for being willing to share your knowledge and experience. You will have helped several of us gain ET and possibly save and engine or twenty in the process. It's not often that a vendor is willing to share their knowledge, but it does tend to develop some long term customer loyalty.
I'm 24 almost 25 years old and I've been on the other side of the coin for most of my life.

In the past 3-4 years I've had some really experienced people take me under their wing and show me the ropes along with taking the time to show me some of the more advanced topics like tuning a forced induction engine and how the valve-train in a race engine works at its maximum potential.

If it weren't for those that had taken the time to school me in those areas, I'd never be where I am today.

I will not be one of those guys that says, "I learned it all on my own, or I did it all by myself", because in reality no one along down the line did it all by themselves...they had help from somewhere. The difference is being humble enough to admit it and return the favor when you see the opening to do so.

Thanks for the kind words and hopefully others will continue to do the same that others took the time to do for myself.
Old 10-15-2012, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
How much boost are you running? Do you have methanol injection?

There is a table under the spark tab called AFR spark correction.

This table will add spark to the spark value currently being commanded only during the time period the computer commands a certain fuel multiplier.

It looks like you're commanding between 1.21-1.28 in PE and 1.0 in your open loop fuel adder tables.

So to utilize that table you would tell the AFR spark correction table to add between 4-12 degrees of timing between 1.0 and 1.2. I would add 12 degrees at 1.0 and progressively ramp it down to 4 at 1.21-1.23. Then have it back to 0 by 1.25 where you're seeing boost.

After you do this subtract some timing from the main high octane table from 3600rpm down to 1000rpm where it looks like you've added a fair amount of timing to try and get the response up.

This method will only add the timing when you're commanding the multipliers 1.0-1.25 and then will revert back to the values you're commanding in your high octane table after 1.25.

Play with it some, but this should get you close. I've used between 28-36 degrees of timing going from vacuum to 1-3psi of boost(obviously 36* in vacuum and 28 from 1-3psi) and then ramped it out quickly to the timing value I wanted in high boost(usually 14-18 depending on boost level and what grade of gasoline being run).

These are just guidelines and not set in stone rules so follow them loosely to find what works best for your car and set-up.
Yes, thank you for your help. I will have to read this about 10 times, a little confusing for me as I am just starting to learn to tune. I have about 6psi and no meth. Just FMIC.
Old 10-16-2012, 06:15 AM
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I haven't tried this yet. How does it look now? I want to make sure I did it the way you suggested.

Tick timing advice.hpt

I feel as though I've hyjacked the thread, but maybe my noob questions can help other guy here too!



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