Enough Room for s91??????? Stock radiator and condensor moved forward.....
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 8
From: Statesville, NC
Enough Room for s91??????? Stock radiator and condensor moved forward..... First off the plan is,
This fall build a 408 for boost. And have it done by spring sometime.
Then over the summer get my turbo stuff together.
Plan is to run a s91. At the moment i am low on funds and just wanted to go ahead and do something to futher help my project so decided to move the radiator up.
Plan is to keep ac with setup.
only mod required to ac will be to lengthen high pressure line about seven or eight inches. Bottom line will still reach fine....
The question is judging by pics provided can i fit a s91 in there???
Or 88 be better???
Currently have stock fans but aftermarkets are an option if more room is needed.
I realize the mod is a little dirty and stuff now but no grinding or paint or covering has been done yet.
ill try to post another few pics with measurements for better judgement....
And may try to figure out how to put air dam back in to help cooling...
all opinions will be appreciated.
This fall build a 408 for boost. And have it done by spring sometime.
Then over the summer get my turbo stuff together.
Plan is to run a s91. At the moment i am low on funds and just wanted to go ahead and do something to futher help my project so decided to move the radiator up.
Plan is to keep ac with setup.
only mod required to ac will be to lengthen high pressure line about seven or eight inches. Bottom line will still reach fine....
The question is judging by pics provided can i fit a s91 in there???
Or 88 be better???
Currently have stock fans but aftermarkets are an option if more room is needed.
I realize the mod is a little dirty and stuff now but no grinding or paint or covering has been done yet.
ill try to post another few pics with measurements for better judgement....
And may try to figure out how to put air dam back in to help cooling...
all opinions will be appreciated.
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Verdad Gallardo The thin spals pullers can not keep up with the ac on. It will over heat.
Here an idea I want to try. Run a 5inch dp out the front bumper. Put a boost actuated valve on a large cut out and connect it to a normal 3inch pipe that will hook up to your cat back. When you get into boost it opens and goes out the front bumper,at idle and cruising it comes out the back. Best of both worlds
Here an idea I want to try. Run a 5inch dp out the front bumper. Put a boost actuated valve on a large cut out and connect it to a normal 3inch pipe that will hook up to your cat back. When you get into boost it opens and goes out the front bumper,at idle and cruising it comes out the back. Best of both worlds
The thin spals pullers can not keep up with the ac on. It will over heat.
Here an idea I want to try. Run a 5inch dp out the front bumper. Put a boost actuated valve on a large cut out and connect it to a normal 3inch pipe that will hook up to your cat back. When you get into boost it opens and goes out the front bumper,at idle and cruising it comes out the back. Best of both worlds
Here an idea I want to try. Run a 5inch dp out the front bumper. Put a boost actuated valve on a large cut out and connect it to a normal 3inch pipe that will hook up to your cat back. When you get into boost it opens and goes out the front bumper,at idle and cruising it comes out the back. Best of both worlds
I am not being devils advocate for the hell of it, I have been brainstorming to make this idea work, never thought to make it boost actuated, that is cool, what would you use to close the 5"?
I have found a 5" cutout on soem diesel performance site, but I'm pretty sure ive seen pictures of turbo cars melting(bending) the valve on a e-cutout, also, I haven't had great luck with them sealing perfectly, and gives it a leak sound..
good luck. im using 6.0 manis, s91, and its damn close to the water pump, and i had my rad notched... yea well. i had to completely remove it since the turbo was touching the fins, ive got a 3" radiator though...
this was pre removal of rad support...
this was pre removal of rad support...
I just finished the turbo kit on this one:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...7-e85-t56.html
88mm, ac, tubular k, stock radiator position. You should have plenty of room and you can do a 4" downpipe out the back on the drivers side.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...7-e85-t56.html
88mm, ac, tubular k, stock radiator position. You should have plenty of room and you can do a 4" downpipe out the back on the drivers side.
Yes you would have to get a 5 inch cut out. Then a vacum actuator,a 5 inch blade,a flange. Its an idea now but possible. Sound performance sells a 4 inch boost activated cut out for about $500 bucks
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 8
From: Statesville, NC
Thanks man. Honestly its not hard welding stainless to cast Its actually cast steel and doesn't have the impurities that cast iron does. People think its really hard to weld. Its not, I did it with my little hobart 140 mig welder. Ideally I would have liked to do it with a tig, but the only one I have access to is at my dads 40 miles away so I did the mig. You learn how to fab and weld with experience, take your time and plan thing out before you final weld it. Tack it, if its not right cut the tack and redo it. The radiator mounts don't look bad, you just need some practice. You will get there, just take your time.