Wicked69

I will try that today and see if that matters.

I did install my old cam and don't think I would have done it wrong. Again, fires right up and runs but who knows.

I did check the exhaust housing and do debris.

I do have low impedence injectors and I use resistors to run them. No problems with them previously but could have something to do with it.

Let me check and see if it will free rev and what it does in first gear today.

Thanks for trying to help everyone. So damn frustrating.

RONSBLACK1998TA

It sound like a clogged up exhaust. Unhook the exhaust after the turbo's. Like it was said before, could be clogged converters. Also check ur fuel pressure with a gauge. Maybe fuel fiter or line is clogged. Fuel pump may be starting to die. Just my 2cents.

Wicked69

We checked fuel flow and getting 2.7 gallons per minute so pump is good. Going to tear everything apart this afternoon and see what's going on.

Timmy2Stage

iTrader: (56)

I would first start by doing a leakdown test before I would start tearing anything apart.

Also, keep in mind, if you have 1 turbo that won't spool up or if there is any type of restriction with 1 turbo you will not see boost.

I had an intercooler once with a twin inlet and a single outlet and one of the inlet's had the plastic cover still stuck in it. Ran and drove perfect. Just couldn't see boost and got choked up fast.

Something to think about.

Tim

Pete91

iTrader: (4)

Is you check engine light on? It could be your map sensor. Is it sort of like as soon as you try to build boost it cuts out right at 3k? Sort of like a fuel cut off? Just something to add.

Wicked69

Thanks all. Didn't get around to doing anything today. Kids wanted some of dads attention. When I meant tear it down, I meant taking all the down pipes off, etc.. to check for restrictions.

The map sensor I will check. I know it took some coaxing to get it on....

stevieturbo

You shouldnt need to be checking any sensors. What did the datalogs show ? they will give you all the sensor feedback you need.

Wicked69

The data log doesn't show anything out of order but obviously something is.

ninetres

iTrader: (35)

LOLOL

How am I the only one who found this hilarious!?!?!?!

Bobsmyuncle

iTrader: (32)

mine did the same thing and it was a coupler that blew off. mine looked like it was still attached, but wasnt.

what wastegate setup is on it?
pics would do alot
did u make sure the wastegate seats were in them before assembling?

Wicked69

I checked all the couplers. I fired it up and would rev it up from the TB and put my hand by each coupler. Never felt any suction or air blowing out. The wastegates are JGS. I took them off and they are seated. I even used my thumb to make sure the spring was compressing. Prior to pulling the wastegates, I checked some things that others have Skinnies and others asked.

Okay, I watched the afr. When I first fired it up it was around high 13's low 14's until it warmed up, then it was high 12's, and low 13's (I run E85 and use the gas scale on my LM1). Now this is only at idle. When I would rev it up it would work it's way to low 10's and then back to 13's. Next, It does rev in neutral as high as I want, however, you can tell right around the 3k mark there is a slight break up, hesitation, whatever you want to call it. Next I put it in low gear in the garage and tried to get it up on boost in low gear. I would only get to about 3k and no boost. However, I have a tight convertor and that doesn't surprise me. Next I put the transbrake on and it would build about 3-5lbs of boost and that is it. However, the day we blew it up it went to 10lbs almost instantly on the transbrake.

Didn't get a chance to drive it again and see if it did it again under load because of rain. Here is a question though. Surely it isn't this simple but I had a friend help me put all this back together. He has helped me before. Since he doesn't work on it as much as I there were a couple small things placed in a slight different spot. For example, my return fuel line I had going across the top of the drivers side head but a good couple of inches from touching the head. He did the same thing but he routed it right on top the head by the intake and top the head. It isn't but maybe a 1/16 of an inch from touching the head. I am using a -8 return braided steel line but maybe the return fuel is getting way too hot? Just thinking.

Here are some pictures: Keep in mind these pictures are as we put it together on the other engine. So some things are still not connected and complete in the pictures.



Here is a pic of how I had the return line but now it pushed under the oil feed line next to it which pushes it right on top the head.

This is how I did all my boost lines.

stevieturbo

So have you done a pressure test to test for boost leaks ?

Have you inspected and tested the wastegates ?

And you say the logs show nothing, I find that hard to believe.

Do all sensor readings and ecu outputs receive and output sensible values when the problem is occurring ? ie TPS, temp, MAP, Injector PW, timing, rpm, MAF, AFR ( if you still use one ) etc etc.
Does your ecu record any crank/cam trigger irregularities ? If so, are there any ?

If the engine is doing something at 3k, something MUST be changing on the logs. Whether it is the cause, or a symptom will depend what those readings are.

Datalogging is a very valuable tool, make use of it.

Hank Peabody

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like an ignition problem, try another set of plugs and make sure gap is right, or maybe a ground issue. Everything youve described sounds like plugs with a huge gap or something. Make sure both banks are firing, I once started my engine with one bank unhooked (spark) and it ran suprisingly smoothly.

Wicked69

I am still new to the data logging and reading. We have only logged it while the car sits and revs in neutral. We have not gotten a chance to log when driving because of the rain. That is when it won't do anything.

The plugs are gapped at .024 but I run E85 and think that is the standard for E85 and boost. I have pulled all the plugs and all cylinders are firing.

I have inspected the wastegates. Not sure how you test them but as I mentioned I pushed in the bottom of the valve with my thumb to verify the spring was compressing and then reseating, which it did.

I have someone who wants to trade this week my Vic jr. Intake and elbow for the edelbrock pro flo xt in black powdercoat. I think that intake would look sick on my chevelle. I will pull the intake off and if the second turbo is bad, I may swap to a single. I'm friggin sick of the turbo problems. We'll see.

stevieturbo

You apply pressure to the wastegate to test it. Same way you would test any pressurized actuator.

A visual or push is better than nothing though. Doubt its the problem though.

Next time you get a chance, log everything.

Bobsmyuncle

iTrader: (32)

go around and check all of your connections, u cant just put ur hand by the couplers and rev it and find leaks. grab one side and grab the other, and start yankin.

Wicked69

lol. I did try to pull them apart, I meant when all stayed together, I still tried to "feel" for leaks. I am doing some swapping this week and will go through everything from scratch.

Right now I have to have someone do my data logging and tune but my HPtuners arrives on Tuesday and then I can start doing all the data logging and tuning in much smaller increments.

Thanks all.

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

You may want to run the crank relearn feature with Hp tuners since you just swapped a new engine. Try and verify timing is actually what the computer is commanding with a timing light.

Wicked69

Okay, thanks.