WS6 LS3 Whipple
#1
Staging Lane
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WS6 LS3 Whipple
Seriously contemplating Whipple's LS3 Blower with F body accessories for my WS6. The graphs over at Camaro5 look awesome from the screw type blowers. Why has no one done this? It looks like the screw cavity is slightly forward atop the heat exchanger. Obviously cutting is involved and that is ok. But my question is how much. Im trying to gauge physical size of this blower, if I have to notch the windshield quite a bit I can almost guarantee problems with fogging up on the street with heat under the windshield.
Secondly would be figuring out where to put a water tank/pump in an already cramped car.
Any tech or comments would be appreciated, Thanks.
Secondly would be figuring out where to put a water tank/pump in an already cramped car.
Any tech or comments would be appreciated, Thanks.
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I have done plenty of this and don't want to dig old threads that got a lot of people butt hurt on screws for F bodys'. So please move forward here this is Tech related and anything is possible given better pros vs' cons.
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I just came off a janky turbo setup from the last motor. Trying to look elsewhere right now. GreatWhite do you have any pics of this done? I can only find smallblock BDS blowers in mid 90s camaros. Someone out there has to know something...
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#8
I got a 2.9 whipple that fits under a stock Fbody cowl with plenty of clearence. Built the entire kit, I will be making a thread soon. A LOT OF WORK, but it can be done
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I dont see why it wouldn't be possible to use the 2.9 if u lower the k member a bit. You could probably even use the corvette 2.9 kit. Relocate your batter and put the tank in there and use a different coolant overflow tank. Or drop down the fuse boxs.
#13
IMHO the real reason it has not been done with the 4.0 is the practicality of getting enough air into the blower. Ayouself and I had a discussion about it. He went to a dual throttlebody setup. However, Whipple has come out with a COPO upgrade package that includes the crusher intake and a 170 mm TB. I ran a 4.0 in a GTO for nearly 5 years. I only ran a 102mm TB and had some IAT issues that made the car only streetable for short rides. I recently decided to go in another direction but would go to the 170 mm TB and crusher in a heartbeat. Having said all that I was running this on a 408 with a 9.0:1 compression ratio and getting nearly 20 lbs of boost and making over 1110 foot pounds of torque. 600-800 whp would be a sweet spot for one of the 2.9 setups IMHO. Either the 2.9 with the 102mm or the 4.0 with the 170 mm TB has a lot of potential in my mind. There are two offset options available now as well. One is the F-Body Offset I ran and the other a 10 rib 2013 Camaro drive that would require 2013 Camaro accessories. For the 4.0 liter, hood would be an issue. Just my opinion.
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I'm also very interested in this. Any and all info on 4th gen twin screw kits would rock
I can't find any info on it because every time I find a thread about it it ends with someone saying "do a search". What good does doing a search do you when every thread you search for tells you to do a search and go elsewhere
Anyway, I'm seriously interested in putting a twin screw on my T/A. I know Hawks sells a Magnuson kit, Whipple has a kit for F-bodies on their website, also I've heard about Kenne Bells but haven't actually seen a kit yet. Sure prochargers and turbos are great but neither really have that "wow" effect for me when you open the hood like a good twin screw has. Let's keep this thread going guys! d love to hear more on this. Any companies making these kits, any way to piece them together to keep the price down, just any and all info would be great
PS: my T/A is a 2000 built by the previous owner for a D1SC that never happened. Has full LS6 swap out if a CTS-V, TruTorq lvl 5 cam (I know it's hard to find info on the level 5 especially in anything smaller than a 6.2 so let me know if you have questions), Pacesetter headers, locking header bolts, SLP LS6 intake, 243 heads worked over by Texas Speed, Patriot Gold valve springs, BBK 80MM TB, SLP smooth bellow, Z06 MAF, off-road 3" Y-pipe, 3.73 gears, UMI subframe connectors and traction bars. Might be forgetting some. Thanks
I can't find any info on it because every time I find a thread about it it ends with someone saying "do a search". What good does doing a search do you when every thread you search for tells you to do a search and go elsewhere
Anyway, I'm seriously interested in putting a twin screw on my T/A. I know Hawks sells a Magnuson kit, Whipple has a kit for F-bodies on their website, also I've heard about Kenne Bells but haven't actually seen a kit yet. Sure prochargers and turbos are great but neither really have that "wow" effect for me when you open the hood like a good twin screw has. Let's keep this thread going guys! d love to hear more on this. Any companies making these kits, any way to piece them together to keep the price down, just any and all info would be great
PS: my T/A is a 2000 built by the previous owner for a D1SC that never happened. Has full LS6 swap out if a CTS-V, TruTorq lvl 5 cam (I know it's hard to find info on the level 5 especially in anything smaller than a 6.2 so let me know if you have questions), Pacesetter headers, locking header bolts, SLP LS6 intake, 243 heads worked over by Texas Speed, Patriot Gold valve springs, BBK 80MM TB, SLP smooth bellow, Z06 MAF, off-road 3" Y-pipe, 3.73 gears, UMI subframe connectors and traction bars. Might be forgetting some. Thanks
#16
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Here's my take on it, because I really thought I wanted a twin screw 3 years ago when I decided I wanted a FI setup. In order to get a positive displacement blower to work on a 4th gen fbody, you really need to drop the motor a good 2-3" if you want to have a street car. By street car I mean having a factory windshield that's not cut up, along with functional windsheild wipers. I know, car never sees rain, doesn't need wipers. But even here in PA with a very laid back inspection policy, you still need windshield wipers.
So in order to drop the motor a solid 3", you need to go to a dry sump setup so you can get a very shallow oil pan. Next you'll need custom k-member and engine mounts. Once you do that, you are on your way to roasting your tires are part throttle at 1500rpm.
So in order to drop the motor a solid 3", you need to go to a dry sump setup so you can get a very shallow oil pan. Next you'll need custom k-member and engine mounts. Once you do that, you are on your way to roasting your tires are part throttle at 1500rpm.
#18
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I don't want to sound rude or hurt feelings, as it sounds like there's some sensitive people in here, but what's the huge attraction to a positive displacement blower?
Is it the way they sound, or how they look under the hood? It can't be that it's faster than a turbo or centri-blower because I don't see any of the fastest c6s or 2010+ camaros running big positive displacement blowers. Sure they make a **** ton of torque down low, but all that does is haze the tires instantly.
Is it the way they sound, or how they look under the hood? It can't be that it's faster than a turbo or centri-blower because I don't see any of the fastest c6s or 2010+ camaros running big positive displacement blowers. Sure they make a **** ton of torque down low, but all that does is haze the tires instantly.
#20
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I would love to see it done. It will not by any stretch of the imagination be as straight forward as the majority of builds in this forum, but that's stating the obvious.
As Alchemist has pointed out, it will be less efficient although still fun to drive.
If your planning on running any good times at a track, dollar per dollar, you'd be wasting money.
The road less traveled will be very interesting to witness however. The task at hand is more about making it a clean install though.
Anyone can hack it to bits and make it fit for you, but few can make it look like it came that way without using a blower so small that it only makes 500hp. They are essentially big heat sponges in my experience. I have a supercharged Cadillac with one, and it really is fun as a DD because of the torque at low rpm, and the minimal effort it takes to get it moving. However even at 15lbs it really does not build that much after the hit, and sort of falls on its face especially in summer months. For A DD street car, a Whipple would be nice.
As Alchemist has pointed out, it will be less efficient although still fun to drive.
If your planning on running any good times at a track, dollar per dollar, you'd be wasting money.
The road less traveled will be very interesting to witness however. The task at hand is more about making it a clean install though.
Anyone can hack it to bits and make it fit for you, but few can make it look like it came that way without using a blower so small that it only makes 500hp. They are essentially big heat sponges in my experience. I have a supercharged Cadillac with one, and it really is fun as a DD because of the torque at low rpm, and the minimal effort it takes to get it moving. However even at 15lbs it really does not build that much after the hit, and sort of falls on its face especially in summer months. For A DD street car, a Whipple would be nice.