4.0L WHIPPLE- <-Official thread.
My target was 20 GPM as that will support 1000hp comfortably. I can control the dyno intercooler temp in within a range from 60-150F much the same way the oem testing is done. You would keep flow across the intercooler stable and start adding temp in the water for testing at high inlet air temps. I have a tank the intercooler draws from, I can feed it tap water at 60F or let it build heat up to 150F if I want hot temps.
My work so far has been trying to get control, that required better water flow first. Now I need to get the drive working on my mule engine!
Kurt
My work so far has been trying to get control, that required better water flow first. Now I need to get the drive working on my mule engine!
Kurt
I'm fairly slow it seems, spent awhile working on other projects waiting for new design damper/drive to be made. I wanted the belt closer to the engine (like a Ford SC engine), it reduces the load on the crank and makes the engine shorter front to back for packaging. This engine is fairly tall, so packaging is going to be interesting. Still working on throttle body and 10 rib belt drive system.
Kurt
Kurt
Not bolt in, but maybe with enough work. The 2.9 probably would work better if you could add a fitting on the other end to increase water flow. It looks possible, but the head unit seemed like it was struggling with what I wanted power wise so I moved on to the 4.0 head unit. Casey at Wegner just finished a very nice accy drive for the 2.9 Whipple with AC and PS. It would be very nice on older car transplant street killer if you are using the 2.9.
Kurt
Kurt
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I'm fairly slow it seems, spent awhile working on other projects waiting for new design damper/drive to be made. I wanted the belt closer to the engine (like a Ford SC engine), it reduces the load on the crank and makes the engine shorter front to back for packaging. This engine is fairly tall, so packaging is going to be interesting. Still working on throttle body and 10 rib belt drive system.
Kurt
Kurt
I have logs from yesterday on my 4.0whipple on a 427 and 22psi of boost no meth, temps are awesome to say the least. This intercooler mod you've done should be worth something! I plan to swap out the Meziere 20gpm to one of those pumps that LPE sells that can flow craploads of volume at high pressure.
It will have two 90mm at first, I could run as high as 120mm if needed. Hoping the 90's will do it as they are inexpensive and easy to get.
Kurt
Kurt
is that a 90mm throttlebody, not sure that would be happy with 1000hp?
I have logs from yesterday on my 4.0whipple on a 427 and 22psi of boost no meth, temps are awesome to say the least. This intercooler mod you've done should be worth something! I plan to swap out the Meziere 20gpm to one of those pumps that LPE sells that can flow craploads of volume at high pressure.
I have logs from yesterday on my 4.0whipple on a 427 and 22psi of boost no meth, temps are awesome to say the least. This intercooler mod you've done should be worth something! I plan to swap out the Meziere 20gpm to one of those pumps that LPE sells that can flow craploads of volume at high pressure.
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well weve done 850rwhp (1000bhp) through a single 102mm im guessing there was some vacuum in the inlet, but then the 87mm I have, have a total surface area equal to a 120+ mm throttle body (without calculating for the throttle shaft), 90s should definitely make it and be easier on drivability, unless you have a method of ramping in the 2nd throttlebody at a different rate than the primary which I can do as well but never fiddled with to be honest.
I ran the 2.9 Whipple with a single 102mm, it made 3+vacuum at 960hp flywheel. They will definitely like it when we reduce that number, so I'm watching and hopefully prepared! I really hope the twin 90's work as they are common/cheaper than the 102mm stuff.
Kurt
Kurt
well weve done 850rwhp (1000bhp) through a single 102mm im guessing there was some vacuum in the inlet, but then the 87mm I have, have a total surface area equal to a 120+ mm throttle body (without calculating for the throttle shaft), 90s should definitely make it and be easier on drivability, unless you have a method of ramping in the 2nd throttlebody at a different rate than the primary which I can do as well but never fiddled with to be honest.
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kurt how fast were you spinning the 2.9? when I did the math were at about 18,500 blower rpm at 6500 engine rpms. I sometimes "think" that a tiny very tiny bit of vacuum between the rotors and throttlebody would be nice to help evacuate the crankcase on a wet sump set-up, but im also not sure how much it hurts performance.
I was at 18000 at 6500 I believe. Mine was pulling oil from the valvecover because of high flow when the crank has everything whipped up. I am using factory dry sump on my engine and ended up restricting the feed line on the pcv and adding a oil separator that I made. I would rather reduce full throttle vacuum as the power will go up and oil in the intake is likely at higher rpm.
Kurt
Kurt
kurt how fast were you spinning the 2.9? when I did the math were at about 18,500 blower rpm at 6500 engine rpms. I sometimes "think" that a tiny very tiny bit of vacuum between the rotors and throttlebody would be nice to help evacuate the crankcase on a wet sump set-up, but im also not sure how much it hurts performance.
Kurt, the whipples do not like and bends/turns going into the plenum area of the drive... Not sure what you have going on there but if where you have the T/B'S that's going to be a sharp turn. I'd just go with a single 109mm T/B from whipple. You'll get your 1000 HP on 15 lbs of boost, easy.
I understand what you are saying but that TB breaks two parameters I am trying to stay within.
1. I am trying to stay in front of the bell housing mounting surface. This will help mounting in cars around the firewall. Right now I will have some injector pieces over that line for testing as I want to spray some liquid on the rotors in testing.
2. I need the engine to have reasonably good driving manners. For this reason I want the factory type slope on the inner diameter of the TB, even with two it should help tame the engine down when cruising.
In a boat, race or rear engine car the rear facing TB could rock, but I am looking at road race/street type cars that will require fine control of the power. My current system has fairly high volume after passing by the TB, hopefully this will work well in testing! Still need to work on the front drive before testing starts, that will help me find if it works as is or needs changes.
Kurt
1. I am trying to stay in front of the bell housing mounting surface. This will help mounting in cars around the firewall. Right now I will have some injector pieces over that line for testing as I want to spray some liquid on the rotors in testing.
2. I need the engine to have reasonably good driving manners. For this reason I want the factory type slope on the inner diameter of the TB, even with two it should help tame the engine down when cruising.
In a boat, race or rear engine car the rear facing TB could rock, but I am looking at road race/street type cars that will require fine control of the power. My current system has fairly high volume after passing by the TB, hopefully this will work well in testing! Still need to work on the front drive before testing starts, that will help me find if it works as is or needs changes.
Kurt
