Head Gaskets??? Can a LS1 block handle 1000rwhp???
10-11-2012 | 10:50 AM
#21
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Phenix, AZ
Not many ls1 blocks been above 1k that I know of. I have seen a few but just a handful. 1k should be ok if everything has been prepped right and maybe extra precautions taken like pinning mains etc.
Stock crank i have seen many run well above 1k. Should be just fine there
Lifting the heads are all different for people. Some lift and push water at 12lbs and some never even running 25lbs. honestly there are several factors that play in this.... head deck thickness, surface prep, head gasket type and prep, cylinder pressure, and mostly TUNE. We have no way of telling how your friends tune will look but if all precautions are taken then he should be fine. 317's have been to 1k no problem and even so very few have pushed water. Since he is using 317 heads then deck thickness wont change, make sure the surface and trueness across the head is good, and use ls9 gaskets well prepped with copper spray and watch where you touch on the binding surfaces. Also use PLENTY of clamping force...to be had through ARP. At that boost level ARP studs ftw.
Good luck
Stock crank i have seen many run well above 1k. Should be just fine there
Lifting the heads are all different for people. Some lift and push water at 12lbs and some never even running 25lbs. honestly there are several factors that play in this.... head deck thickness, surface prep, head gasket type and prep, cylinder pressure, and mostly TUNE. We have no way of telling how your friends tune will look but if all precautions are taken then he should be fine. 317's have been to 1k no problem and even so very few have pushed water. Since he is using 317 heads then deck thickness wont change, make sure the surface and trueness across the head is good, and use ls9 gaskets well prepped with copper spray and watch where you touch on the binding surfaces. Also use PLENTY of clamping force...to be had through ARP. At that boost level ARP studs ftw.
Good luck
Thanks for the reply man. I think the only problem hes is going to have it he has stock main caps. What do you think about that?
10-11-2012 | 11:34 AM
#22
You should run a LS2 or similar 4.0"+ bore block. Opens your options for valve sizing and also slightly thicker sleeves.
I've read an LS1 with high HP 850rwhp+ that is street driven a lot (a few thousand miles) will lose ring seal over time. You can take it apart, quickly hone it, throw in new rings, until it happens again in a few more thousand miles. Start with LS2 block which has a better oiling system as well. If you aren't concerned about weight then get a 6.0 iron block.
Pinning/doweling the main caps to prevent them from walking is a good idea and not expensive at all. Plenty of people making 1000rwhp with stock cranks and good rods/pistons.
I've read an LS1 with high HP 850rwhp+ that is street driven a lot (a few thousand miles) will lose ring seal over time. You can take it apart, quickly hone it, throw in new rings, until it happens again in a few more thousand miles. Start with LS2 block which has a better oiling system as well. If you aren't concerned about weight then get a 6.0 iron block.
Pinning/doweling the main caps to prevent them from walking is a good idea and not expensive at all. Plenty of people making 1000rwhp with stock cranks and good rods/pistons.
10-11-2012 | 11:39 AM
#23
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Phenix, AZ
You should run a LS2 or similar 4.0"+ bore block. Opens your options for valve sizing and also slightly thicker sleeves.
I've read an LS1 with high HP 850rwhp+ that is street driven a lot (a few thousand miles) will lose ring seal over time. You can take it apart, quickly hone it, throw in new rings, until it happens again in a few more thousand miles. Start with LS2 block which has a better oiling system as well. If you aren't concerned about weight then get a 6.0 iron block.
Pinning/doweling the main caps to prevent them from walking is a good idea and not expensive at all. Plenty of people making 1000rwhp with stock cranks and good rods/pistons.
I've read an LS1 with high HP 850rwhp+ that is street driven a lot (a few thousand miles) will lose ring seal over time. You can take it apart, quickly hone it, throw in new rings, until it happens again in a few more thousand miles. Start with LS2 block which has a better oiling system as well. If you aren't concerned about weight then get a 6.0 iron block.
Pinning/doweling the main caps to prevent them from walking is a good idea and not expensive at all. Plenty of people making 1000rwhp with stock cranks and good rods/pistons.
So most likely this forged ls1 isnt going to live too long making 1000rwhp?
Last edited by n2ols1cam; 10-11-2012 at 05:59 PM.
