stock 5.3 vs stock LQ4, which is better for high boost?
#121
I actually went with a 317 head to drop compression down a tad on my 5.3 since it is the flat top 9.9 compression. If I was going to run E85 exclusively (local dealership runs out now and again) then I would have kept the 9.9 but I decided to drop it down a tad.
#122
Interestingly enough he has a 346 going even faster with less cubes, lol. Given it has a very built upper end and spins up to 9400 rpms.
LS/Th350/9.032/149.95
So why is it do you think Skinnies prefers to run the 5.3 to the 6.0? How many 6.0 motors have you seen with bone stock short block and heads going 8.6? I am just curious.
#123
an aluminum 5.3 is a HECK OF A LOT cheaper than an aluminum 6.2l , for example.
I dont think you will find many cars that are 2600 so you wont find many other cars running 8.6s
Im looking at the 2012 fastest list, and the 5.3s dont show up till the bottom. Why do you think this is???
#124
I do have another 5.3 question; so the 04.5-05+ 5.3's have the stronger LS2 rods, and the L33 motor is lighter as well. This seems to be a good one to look for, but I noticed that they also have the slightly higher CR of 9.9:1 vs the earlier 5.3's that have 9.5:1. Given that the boost will be turned up, would it be wiser to go with the earlier weaker 5.3? Or the newer higher CR 5.3?
I was thinking originally that about a 9:1 or 9.5:1 CR would be about perfect. But perhaps since I will be using an FMIC and E85 the 9.9:1 might be okay? Looking for inputs.
I was thinking originally that about a 9:1 or 9.5:1 CR would be about perfect. But perhaps since I will be using an FMIC and E85 the 9.9:1 might be okay? Looking for inputs.
#125
Detonation kills the rods in most cases. If you have good fuel and good tune theirs no reason why the older style rods won't hold up. I posted earlier that on YouTube theirs an s10 with an older style 5.3 that's running 25lbs and a 125 shot of nitrous. I ran 18lbs on mine and wouldn't be afraid to do it again
#126
I think skinnies likes the 5.3 because they are less money than the 6.0. they can make the same total power before something lets go, and easy to find.
an aluminum 5.3 is a HECK OF A LOT cheaper than an aluminum 6.2l , for example.
I dont think you will find many cars that are 2600 so you wont find many other cars running 8.6s
Im looking at the 2012 fastest list, and the 5.3s dont show up till the bottom. Why do you think this is???
an aluminum 5.3 is a HECK OF A LOT cheaper than an aluminum 6.2l , for example.
I dont think you will find many cars that are 2600 so you wont find many other cars running 8.6s
Im looking at the 2012 fastest list, and the 5.3s dont show up till the bottom. Why do you think this is???
One, the 5.3 builds are primarily budget builds there people are trying to get it done on the cheap! You don't see too many $25,000 5.3 motors out there. I know that I am not spending a ton of money, no forged pistons, no $2500 block, no rods, no $500 rings, none of that. If I had the cash burning a hole in my pocket and wanted to blow it on a super long block, I probably would do things a little different. But then again Skinnies, Demah and others have not done any of that either and are still turning some pretty good times. They would both be in the middle to top of the list.
Two, there are quite a few 5.3 times that I have seen that are not on that list but there are videos and time slips being posted.
@Call911
Absolutely, if you are running E85 full time, it would be worth keeping the compression. E85 likes compression. There have been studies done that ran NA motors in the 17-18:1 compression ratio on E85 and found not only were they fine, but they actually got as good of gas mileage as gas cars or very close due to the additional hp from the compression.
#128
Probably going to go the 5.3 and PT7675 route, but not in any hurry. If I happen to find a smoking deal on a 5.3 I may pull the trigger early, but wasn't planning on starting this project until next year. Just wanted to get some research done first so I knew what direction to go.
Thanks for the info Sarg. Looks like the L33 would be a good choice for me then.
New question; does mileage matter on the motor? I had planned on putting new rings and bearings, and rod bolts/head studs with whatever I get. I am seeing some fairly inexpensive 5.3's ($400-$500) but they are 130,XXX+ on the mileage. Whereas some of the 30,XXX 5.3's are going for $1000. Not sure if I should spend the extra $ on the lower mileage or not.
The L33 5.3's seem to bit a bit more $ than the standard 5.3's (and more rare). Anyone know the weight difference between the two?
Thanks for the info Sarg. Looks like the L33 would be a good choice for me then.
New question; does mileage matter on the motor? I had planned on putting new rings and bearings, and rod bolts/head studs with whatever I get. I am seeing some fairly inexpensive 5.3's ($400-$500) but they are 130,XXX+ on the mileage. Whereas some of the 30,XXX 5.3's are going for $1000. Not sure if I should spend the extra $ on the lower mileage or not.
The L33 5.3's seem to bit a bit more $ than the standard 5.3's (and more rare). Anyone know the weight difference between the two?
#129
Probably going to go the 5.3 and PT7675 route, but not in any hurry. If I happen to find a smoking deal on a 5.3 I may pull the trigger early, but wasn't planning on starting this project until next year. Just wanted to get some research done first so I knew what direction to go.
Thanks for the info Sarg. Looks like the L33 would be a good choice for me then.
New question; does mileage matter on the motor? I had planned on putting new rings and bearings, and rod bolts/head studs with whatever I get. I am seeing some fairly inexpensive 5.3's ($400-$500) but they are 130,XXX+ on the mileage. Whereas some of the 30,XXX 5.3's are going for $1000. Not sure if I should spend the extra $ on the lower mileage or not.
The L33 5.3's seem to bit a bit more $ than the standard 5.3's (and more rare). Anyone know the weight difference between the two?
Thanks for the info Sarg. Looks like the L33 would be a good choice for me then.
New question; does mileage matter on the motor? I had planned on putting new rings and bearings, and rod bolts/head studs with whatever I get. I am seeing some fairly inexpensive 5.3's ($400-$500) but they are 130,XXX+ on the mileage. Whereas some of the 30,XXX 5.3's are going for $1000. Not sure if I should spend the extra $ on the lower mileage or not.
The L33 5.3's seem to bit a bit more $ than the standard 5.3's (and more rare). Anyone know the weight difference between the two?
Do the head studs, valve springs, and ls9 gaskets, If you get a "big" cam then upgrade pushrods and the lifters to ls7 imo (big cam=big rpm) but if your going to do a ls6 or similar sized cam the stockers are fine. I know it seems weird to throw a stock engine in without doing anything to it but trust me and everyone else ,dont rering it, dont do rod bolts, dont throw bearings in it, dont do main studs, or any thing else. Stock will Rock
Everyone was telling me to do the same here locally and that my **** was gonna explode and all that but its been ultra reliable. Ive had trans and converter issues and lots of other stuff, but had not needed to touch that little engine.
Keep on searching, the deals are out there, I got my 24K 5.3 for $175 and may have found a l33 but gotta go check it out as the owner says the cyl walls may or may not be rusty. Start spreading the word around of what your looking for and you will find one. Hodson just found a complete 06 5.3 with coils, non egr manifolds, intake, front accesories and all for $400 with 100K miles and that thing looks clean inside, alot better than mine did as I think some lady drove it and never changed the oil. Were putting an s475 on it
#130
Well, if detonation will be the only thing to worry about, wouldn't it make more sense that running the slightly higher CR of the newer 5.3 (with the other benefits of being lighter and stronger rods) would be the way to go if running E85 and a good tune? I am assuming that what I have read here that the slight increase in CR will still be fine given the E85.
#132
about 75 lb difference, Keep searching since you have all year and find one cheap. Ive had them abart with 150K on the clock and they still look new with good bearings and crosshatch. Leave that sucker stock man, if you are worried about it then take it apart and clean everyhing but there is no reason to rebuild it if everything looks good.
Do the head studs, valve springs, and ls9 gaskets, If you get a "big" cam then upgrade pushrods and the lifters to ls7 imo (big cam=big rpm) but if your going to do a ls6 or similar sized cam the stockers are fine. I know it seems weird to throw a stock engine in without doing anything to it but trust me and everyone else ,dont rering it, dont do rod bolts, dont throw bearings in it, dont do main studs, or any thing else. Stock will Rock
Everyone was telling me to do the same here locally and that my **** was gonna explode and all that but its been ultra reliable. Ive had trans and converter issues and lots of other stuff, but had not needed to touch that little engine.
Keep on searching, the deals are out there, I got my 24K 5.3 for $175 and may have found a l33 but gotta go check it out as the owner says the cyl walls may or may not be rusty. Start spreading the word around of what your looking for and you will find one. Hodson just found a complete 06 5.3 with coils, non egr manifolds, intake, front accesories and all for $400 with 100K miles and that thing looks clean inside, alot better than mine did as I think some lady drove it and never changed the oil. Were putting an s475 on it
Do the head studs, valve springs, and ls9 gaskets, If you get a "big" cam then upgrade pushrods and the lifters to ls7 imo (big cam=big rpm) but if your going to do a ls6 or similar sized cam the stockers are fine. I know it seems weird to throw a stock engine in without doing anything to it but trust me and everyone else ,dont rering it, dont do rod bolts, dont throw bearings in it, dont do main studs, or any thing else. Stock will Rock
Everyone was telling me to do the same here locally and that my **** was gonna explode and all that but its been ultra reliable. Ive had trans and converter issues and lots of other stuff, but had not needed to touch that little engine.
Keep on searching, the deals are out there, I got my 24K 5.3 for $175 and may have found a l33 but gotta go check it out as the owner says the cyl walls may or may not be rusty. Start spreading the word around of what your looking for and you will find one. Hodson just found a complete 06 5.3 with coils, non egr manifolds, intake, front accesories and all for $400 with 100K miles and that thing looks clean inside, alot better than mine did as I think some lady drove it and never changed the oil. Were putting an s475 on it
If you happen to come across a good deal, let me know.
Lol, I'd like to, but with winter coming up, and other projects that need to be done first, it won't be until next year, unless I get a great deal on a motor.