Would you rather?? Electric or boost activated cutout.
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From: Northwest side of Chicago
Would you rather?? Electric or boost activated cutout. I'm running a 4 inch dp and don't have room to bring it through the kmember. What i want to do is tapper it down to a 3 inch and connect it to my nice sounding but not the best flowing "catback."
So I'm going to run a 4 inch dp with a cutout to have the best of both worlds.
I found the sound performance boost activated cutout ($460) that would be totally automatic. As soon as it hits about 4psi it starts to open. I'm thinking that's nice because i could get into it and not worry about holding a switch down first then again to close.
Or i do the electric ($200) and I'm in full control but have to think about it before beating on the car because i have a switch to push. Upside is when i want to cruise with an open dp and be a badass i can, the other route i can't.
What would you do and why?
.
So I'm going to run a 4 inch dp with a cutout to have the best of both worlds.
I found the sound performance boost activated cutout ($460) that would be totally automatic. As soon as it hits about 4psi it starts to open. I'm thinking that's nice because i could get into it and not worry about holding a switch down first then again to close.
Or i do the electric ($200) and I'm in full control but have to think about it before beating on the car because i have a switch to push. Upside is when i want to cruise with an open dp and be a badass i can, the other route i can't.
What would you do and why?
.
I'm running a 4 inch dp and don't have room to bring it through the kmember. What i want to do is tapper it down to a 3 inch and connect it to my nice sounding but not the best flowing "catback."
So I'm going to run a 4 inch dp with a cutout to have the best of both worlds.
I found the sound performance boost activated cutout ($460) that would be totally automatic. As soon as it hits about 4psi it starts to open. I'm thinking that's nice because i could get into it and not worry about holding a switch down first then again to close.
Or i do the electric ($200) and I'm in full control but have to think about it before beating on the car because i have a switch to push. Upside is when i want to cruise with an open dp and be a badass i can, the other route i can't.
What would you do and why?
.
So I'm going to run a 4 inch dp with a cutout to have the best of both worlds.
I found the sound performance boost activated cutout ($460) that would be totally automatic. As soon as it hits about 4psi it starts to open. I'm thinking that's nice because i could get into it and not worry about holding a switch down first then again to close.
Or i do the electric ($200) and I'm in full control but have to think about it before beating on the car because i have a switch to push. Upside is when i want to cruise with an open dp and be a badass i can, the other route i can't.
What would you do and why?
.
I personally like the idea of being a little stealthy, so I would choose the boost activated for a high hp street car, but $460 is a bit steep, isn't it? maybe I'm just too cheap. 
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Not sure if a Hobbs switch will work with a cutout. Typically you hold the cutout switch down until it's open, then release. Using a Hobbs switch would keep trying to open the cutout after it's fully open, which could burn out the motor. I haven't had a cutout for years, so maybe they have changed how the switch interacts with the motor.
Not sure if a Hobbs switch will work with a cutout. Typically you hold the cutout switch down until it's open, then release. Using a Hobbs switch would keep trying to open the cutout after it's fully open, which could burn out the motor. I haven't had a cutout for years, so maybe they have changed how the switch interacts with the motor.
I just prefer to run an electric cutout so theres no worries.
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Joined: Dec 2004
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^^^ This, but i bet it could be made to work with some wiring knowledge. You would just have to get the hobbs switch to power off once its fully open. Maybe by setting up some type of ground contact that the butterfly hits when its fully open which cuts the signal from the hobbs switch.
I just prefer to run an electric cutout so theres no worries.
I just prefer to run an electric cutout so theres no worries.
now, what if you want to auto-CLOSE the cutout? is there a hobbs switch with a 0 psi setting?
Like stated above, I would go with the electric cut out. Quiet when you are cruising around and bad *** mode when you want it to be.
I would personally get annoyed if every time I had to pass a car or merge on to the interstate if I got a sudden burst of loud *** noise and then it would quiet back down.
I would personally get annoyed if every time I had to pass a car or merge on to the interstate if I got a sudden burst of loud *** noise and then it would quiet back down.
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 476
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or build a device (or buy one) to measure resistance... like auto-down and auto-up windows. then you won't need the extra things hanging around the cutout, which could possibly melt
now, what if you want to auto-CLOSE the cutout? is there a hobbs switch with a 0 psi setting?
now, what if you want to auto-CLOSE the cutout? is there a hobbs switch with a 0 psi setting?
Back in 03... i built my own. I spring loaded it liked a throttle body and used a big electric actuator. It was just an open/close type....no pwm or stepper motor stuff.
Ill see if i can find that actuator.... its what made it easy....
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 476
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Like stated above, I would go with the electric cut out. Quiet when you are cruising around and bad *** mode when you want it to be.
I would personally get annoyed if every time I had to pass a car or merge on to the interstate if I got a sudden burst of loud *** noise and then it would quiet back down.
I would personally get annoyed if every time I had to pass a car or merge on to the interstate if I got a sudden burst of loud *** noise and then it would quiet back down.
Another thing to think about is that electric cutouts (at least the McCord and QTP's that I've had) take about 5-7 seconds to fully open. So wiring it to a Hobbs switch might not work too well unless you're in boost for awhile. I imagine the boost activated cutout will open quite quickly. Regardless, an electric cutout will give you more control in the end and is less than half the half the price.
I made a boost/vacuum operated cutout. It worked really nice while i had it. The previous setup i had was designed to open at 0 vacuum/0 psi. I would do it again with a wastegate actuator at 5 psi.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: May 2010
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+1. Get a manual cutout and attach a super low pressure wastegate actuator to it.