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How to Microsquirt fuel and spark your LSX swap (sloppy mechanics how to!) 8-10-13

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Old 02-13-2015, 12:26 PM
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Default I'm new here but I've been reading up on micro s and ms1

So I'm looking at all the options micro has but what is the advantiges of ms3?

Just the fact that you can control each injecter individualy? Its hard to find more info on 3.
ALSO DENMAH YOUR AWESOME! I have been researching your work all week. I have the same adiction to cheap hp and cars lol

So I was looking for the cheapest way to get an ls ran by any version of the ms family but I want the posability of A/C. The micro as far as I can see does not do that?

I do how ever have an idea of how to use my factery controls like the a/c button and relay to be wired in parallel with the IAT and use the 12v car power to pull the coil in, but use the 5v+ wire heading to the IAT. But In parellel hook it to the nornally open contact pn that relay and use a rezistor or diode to make the MS think this rezistor is telling it that the temp is actually cold enough to need added fuel and it would then rev the car up and your relay on the car side would also pull in your electric fan and a/c compessor. But when it actually is cold you can still use you IAT because you do no have the ac pulled in. And if you defrost is on the car thinks is 0 instead of 30 out. And idles the engine up higher.

Maybe I'm crazy or maybe its been done? I'm an industrial maitenince technicion. I understand logic But I've never tuned any thing but I have alot of industrial plc experience.

Let me know if I'm crazy or miss lead to how the intake air teprature sensor works with the M/S. Also if I'm halfway correct I can drawl up what I'm saying and post that.
Old 02-13-2015, 12:40 PM
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there are large differences between what the MS3 is capable of and what the Micro can do


i did a video update recently for the ms3 gold box i am using now in my f5

micro will put a car into the 8s its reliable, proven, and works great

if thats all you need its a good starting point also cheaper etc.

but for flat out retarded, bump box, boost control traction control, 2nd fuel pumps, nitrous methnaol, you name it, the ms3 can do all of them

sequential fueling is nice, but you really have to have 8 widebands to fully utilize this feature and tune for it
Old 02-17-2015, 10:22 PM
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What do you have your cranking RPM and startup settings at? Looks like I only see 140-150 cranking RPM. MS lowest setting is 200 rpm. Once started mine runs great but I get the occasional starter kick back. Wondering if this is common with the MS LSx engine setups.
Old 02-20-2015, 02:49 PM
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Anybody need a microsquirt with built and loomed harness? I need to sell this one. $600 shipped

https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...l#post18677092
Old 02-21-2015, 07:54 PM
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fixed link for firmware downloads
Old 02-22-2015, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
What do you have your cranking RPM and startup settings at? Looks like I only see 140-150 cranking RPM. MS lowest setting is 200 rpm. Once started mine runs great but I get the occasional starter kick back. Wondering if this is common with the MS LSx engine setups.
Played with this a bit yesterday and found a "cure".

Set cranking RPM to 200.

On the ignition options page there is a field called "skip pulses". This is default to 3.

The number of tach input pulses at start-up that are ignored before ignition calculations and wheel decoding begins.
Set this to 7. Then set cranking advance to "0" degrees and moved crank dwell from 6ms to 4.5ms.

Zero starter kick back now. Starts up great every time.

Screen shot is from my desktop so none of the other setting are for an "LS".
Attached Thumbnails How to Microsquirt  fuel and spark your LSX swap (sloppy mechanics how to!) 8-10-13-startup.jpg  
Old 02-26-2015, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Played with this a bit yesterday and found a "cure".

Set cranking RPM to 200.

On the ignition options page there is a field called "skip pulses". This is default to 3.



Set this to 7. Then set cranking advance to "0" degrees and moved crank dwell from 6ms to 4.5ms.

Zero starter kick back now. Starts up great every time.

Screen shot is from my desktop so none of the other setting are for an "LS".
Great info, thanks for sharing!
Old 02-27-2015, 09:42 AM
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Hey Matt did you get the sequential COP setup on the new Fairmont build? Tried switching mine over and it just backfired during cranking and would not start. Not sure what the trick is. Guys on the MS forums were saying the seq COP is much better in terms of spark potency and were asking why I wasn't running it... Then gave no input as to why it doesn't seem to work for me.
Old 02-27-2015, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Hey Matt did you get the sequential COP setup on the new Fairmont build? Tried switching mine over and it just backfired during cranking and would not start. Not sure what the trick is. Guys on the MS forums were saying the seq COP is much better in terms of spark potency and were asking why I wasn't running it... Then gave no input as to why it doesn't seem to work for me.
Is your cam signal OK? I had the same problem initially when I used a LS2 cam in my 5.3 (sensor on the back). I had no signal and it started randomly either on the right cylinder or 360° off and backfired.
Then I changed the timing cover and added a sensor on the front with the correct sprocket. It backfired again because the wiring of the sensor is different between the front and rear sensor. When I corrected the wiring it started evrytime without any backfire.
Do you see the cam signal on the composite logger in tunerstudio?

Look here for the cam sensor wiring depending if it is a 24 or 58 teeth wheel crank:
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewto...=54392#p402933

Last edited by gui67; 02-27-2015 at 10:25 AM.
Old 02-27-2015, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by gui67
Is your cam signal OK? I had the same problem initially when I used a LS2 cam in my 5.3 (sensor on the back). I had no signal and it started randomly either on the right cylinder or 360° off and backfired.
Then I changed the timing cover and added a sensor on the front with the correct sprocket. It backfired again because the wiring of the sensor is different between the front and rear sensor. When I corrected the wiring it started evrytime without any backfire.
Do you see the cam signal on the composite logger in tunerstudio?

I believe so, I’ll have to verify. It appears to be using seq. fuel just fine. I’m using a 24t crank and have a cam with the correct 1-tooth signal on the back.

I assumed I didn’t have the ignition settings correct. Can you post up a screen shot of your settings? Thanks!
Old 02-27-2015, 10:43 AM
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yeah i am running full sequential


Old 04-08-2015, 03:29 PM
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Has anyone piggybacked a micosquirt v3 with a drive by wire GM computer?
I want to sell just my motor with a microsquirt, But right now the car is running off a red & blue GM drive by cable computer so I want to unplug the injectors and coils and run the motor off the Microsquirt for the new buyer.

So do I just tap into the crank sensor wires that are going the computer ? I don't want to wreck the microsquirt or the GM computer.

Stacy
PS
I called Mike @ efi source and he wasn't sure.
Old 04-08-2015, 06:16 PM
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The Microsquirt(or any stand alone) will need too many shared inputs to work easily, and everyone of those shared inputs is a chance for the factory computer to get a "garbage" input, same with the Microsquirt(or any stand alone), and those "garbage" inputs are way more likely to cause problems in a DBW installation.

Could it work?... probably, with shared crank signal, and new clt, and iat sensors installed(those can't be shared reliably), but now to the tps sensor,it gets tricky with a "drive by wire" setup, and sharing it, may be problematic for the factory computer. because of the TPS "up", and the TPS"down", for lack of better words, signals being compared by the factory computer to determine faults. hooking the microsquirt to only one may alter the signal to the factory computer only .01 volts, but that could be enough to trip a "limp mode".

I doubt anyone has ever tried to do it because the conversion to cable throttle is so easy, but I imagine with enough time and effort, it could work, but I would hate to be the one figuring out what the factory computer will accept for error, before going to "reduced power" or "limp mode".
Old 04-09-2015, 12:58 AM
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Dang... I hate brain farts... I meant to say drive by cable... so sorry ! will it work with a cable computer and throttle body????
Stacy

Originally Posted by atomic 6
The Microsquirt(or any stand alone) will need too many shared inputs to work easily, and everyone of those shared inputs is a chance for the factory computer to get a "garbage" input, same with the Microsquirt(or any stand alone), and those "garbage" inputs are way more likely to cause problems in a DBW installation.

Could it work?... probably, with shared crank signal, and new clt, and iat sensors installed(those can't be shared reliably), but now to the tps sensor,it gets tricky with a "drive by wire" setup, and sharing it, may be problematic for the factory computer. because of the TPS "up", and the TPS"down", for lack of better words, signals being compared by the factory computer to determine faults. hooking the microsquirt to only one may alter the signal to the factory computer only .01 volts, but that could be enough to trip a "limp mode".

I doubt anyone has ever tried to do it because the conversion to cable throttle is so easy, but I imagine with enough time and effort, it could work, but I would hate to be the one figuring out what the factory computer will accept for error, before going to "reduced power" or "limp mode".
Old 04-13-2015, 06:13 PM
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Do I have to change anything in the settings to make the micro use the additional WLED and ALED as spark outputs? How would it know to use these? I only see IGN1 as my option for spark outputs. And I can only choose 1?

I have Stacey's micro box and harness installed, Using the I/O testing all the injs fire, I get RPM and a steady crank signal. I'm getting no spark and can't figure it out. It is properly grounded to the head only. Checked my pins on the coil harness and they are wired correctly. Have 12v with IGN on.

Only think I can think of is he loaded the 3.3.3 on the micro before he sent it to me. I went to the MS2 3.3.3 firmware and set it up that ini on a new project and all seems well. When I go to load your fairmont tune it's an old firmware version and has errors.

Has anyone tried the 3.3.3 with micro and coils wired as indicated in this thread? Can I get teh old firmware somewhere to try?

I believe Stacey had an engine running with this setup, so I don't' think it's a wiring issue.



spark A - IGNout - white - Firing Cyl 1 and 6
spark B - IGNout 2 - white/red - Firing Cyl 5 and 8
spark C - WLED - yellow/white - Firing Cyl 7 and 4
spark D - ALED - yellow/black - Firing Cyl 3 and 2

Last edited by Forcefed86; 04-13-2015 at 06:30 PM.
Old 04-13-2015, 08:25 PM
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What ohm resistors for the pull up are in the micro?
Old 04-13-2015, 08:34 PM
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The microsquirt has to be loaded with the Microsquirt(cased) firmware, the regular MS2 stuff and the microsquirt module stuff won't work.
Old 04-13-2015, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by tonypaul
What ohm resistors for the pull up are in the micro?
Pics of it back on post #139. I'm sure Stacey will chime in, but I believe he followed this thread when he modified his boxes.

Last edited by Forcefed86; 04-13-2015 at 08:41 PM.
Old 04-13-2015, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by atomic 6
The microsquirt has to be loaded with the Microsquirt(cased) firmware, the regular MS2 stuff and the microsquirt module stuff won't work.
When you download the newest MS2 firmware it has a micro.ini file? That is what I used. I didn't see a separate firmware for the micro? Is that correct?

http://www.msextra.com/downloads/
Attached Thumbnails How to Microsquirt  fuel and spark your LSX swap (sloppy mechanics how to!) 8-10-13-micro2.jpg  
Old 04-13-2015, 08:46 PM
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Yes that is the download, you run the msloader32, and then in the prompts in the program it will use the right .s19 file if you select microsquirt when it asks you witch version of MSII you are trying to flash.

do you have the pull up resistors install on the aled, wled outputs?

did you select the ls1 wheel decoder in the msq?(this is done in tunerstudio)


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