This was a tight budget build as most of us rear mount people are. I thought I would finally get around to putting it up on here hoping some of you might have some better ideas for my setup and maby some of mine might work for you. The turbo is an ebay 76mm .80 AR exhaust and a 38mm tial wastegate. I running midlength headers with factory y-pipe and 2.5" piping, everything wrapped to the back. I'm running dual procharger intercoolers in front of the front tires, since I still have the lt1 front bumper and didn't want to hack much, they seem to do the job just fine. This is still a work in progress as I am trying to stop an oil puddle to blows out of the turbo when I start the car, but quits blowing out after I run it for a lil while. The mocal style scavenging pump I have is rediculously loud, so I plan on going with the turbowerx here real soon.
As for the engine, it is a forged eagle rotating assembly 383 ls1, 9:1 compression, ls6 intake, 243 heads, and a 228/234 .608 lift cam, melling oil pump, 60# injectors. The fuel system is twin walbros in the tank.
When I had it tuned I didn't have but maybe 90 octane in the tank and with the oil being in the charge piping, my tuner said he would just keep about 10 degrees of timing out of it just to be safe for now. At 11 psi it was making 460 wrhp; this was before I had the exhaust wrapped.
I think I might have found why I'm leaking the oil into the turbo after I shut the engine off, but we'll find out here in a day or two. I plan on putting a 2psi pressure valve on the inlet side right before the turbo to keep the oil from just running in from the engine when its shut off. I don't know if this is what other people are doing to stop this problem, but I couldn't find anyone elses oiling setup either. I'm hoping to be close to 600 after I get the final tune on 93 octane. I did everything besides putting the long block together in my garage, so this isn't the prettiest setup but I'll try to get some pics up soon. If anyone has any recomendations about the oiling issue, I'm all ears.

 

most people use a 1 way check valve in line to prevent oil pooling.

 

PICS for sure!! lol nice to hear your up and running. A check valve for sure inline on the feed with a light cracking pressure. im wondering myself if i should put a check valve on the return line.
also how do you have your return line?

definitly lookign forward to some pics. im doing a true DIY rearmount as well with a t76 as well.

 

Ya I know I've been slacking with the picture parts, this time of year really hectic with school and work. I have my return line just ran up and over the axle. I just replaced my brass gear oil scavenging pump with a turbowerx base model, and man the noise difference is amazing. I can hear the engine again, definitely worth the money. Still having the oil splatter problem though when I start it up even after I installed the check valve. I don't know what else to do. Hopefully going to have it finished tuning monday and get this oil problem figured out while I'm there at Sho Me Speed. I'll try to get some picks up when its in the air. Oh and if I can figure out how to post the video, I had some fun with an 02 gsxr 600

 

Well its been a long time since I've been on here and I know I'm still working on those pics if I can ever remember when I'm around it. Finally got most of my oiling problem solved and got some better dyno numbers plus I got to take it to the track for the first time with this setup. I probably messed up by going with a bigger exhaust housing but I changed my turbo to a 76mm ceramic ball bearing with the .96 housing. The dyno sheets is a steady climb to 513/478 on 13lbs. It pulls very hard up top but I cannot get a launch which is killing my time. It ran a 12.30 at 120mph with a 2.14 60'. It was very consistent though. I'm not sure what to do next. I think a cam built for a rear mount would be much more efficient and then a little higher stall to get off the line might help. But I am seriously looking into twins up front and gain my ground clearance back. I guess money will tell what happens in the future.

 

yeah, your 60ft is killing you lol but you are chasig them down as obvios by the 120mph track time. im having a hard time with near stock power getting hooked. best 60ft I could get without the turbo was 2.0 with a 13.9 1/4 ans a 3200 stall. dude it is the strangest feeling of of spinning in first and second, then catch traction finally and the car dropping back into 1st again lol

Im in the process of getting a 2.5 ypipe either made for me or if I can locate an SLP ypipe so I can get some clearance and gain some spool up all while getting ride of all the holes im my current 3" ORY pipe that seems like I cant find a decent welder worth their salt.

as for the oiling, its just the nature of it. your going to have residual oil that's stuck in the oil chamber that, while sitting, will slowly seep thru the seals and have some smoke at start up.

 

I'm getting ready to order a 2 step for it to see what that does. People say it helps tremendously. Guess we'll find out and I'll post either some times or a video of the difference.

 

Do you have any pictures of the clearance on the system? I'm interested in rear mount kits but ground clearance is a huge issue for me( air ride suspension).

 

With air ride I don't think a rear mount is the kit for you. I have drug mostly coming out of places where a lowered car would look like it would high center. If you can bring your car up higher than stock when you come up to those places on the fly, you should be fine. I think I am actually going to do twins up front just to get my ground clearance back when I can get the money or time to do it. I can clear a soda can standing up under my turbo. I have maybe three to three and a half inches under my lowest pipe that goes under my a arm. The rear mount is a cheap way to do it but I kind of wished I would have just done a front mount from the beginning.

 

fixed that **** and im lowered 1.25".
When i had it the normal STS style, i dragged my pipe on a few high spots.
now that ive done this:
before




AFTER:
long return pipe INSIDE the rocker now



as you can see, the ypipe (3" ORY) is the lowestpioint now






No rubbing and no more ground clearnace issues, once i get my SLP 2.5" ypipe in there. that rear pipe is higher then pictured now. i even put that over axle hoop as well. The front overaxle pipe was Mark III LOL you didnt want to see Mark I lol it was a hodge podge of couplers and pipe lol, then Mark II got rid of some of them but had a noneboost holding flex pipe lol. needless to say it was a process. then mark III was a complete solid one piece pipe bent and flattened to fit in the wheelwell without interfering with the tire. Some time later, im going to trim the wheelwell cover to fit it back in wheelwell and protect some of the goodies undernieth lol
getting the pipe in the rocker takes some finess. you gotta remove either the spring and/or shock depending on what you got cause you have to jack up the axle ot of the way so you can slide the pipe into place.

UPDATE: I now have a steel pipe replacing the whole section in front of the rear tire and its bolted tot he chassis so now its properly secured and actualy tucks up even higher. I can drive over speed bumps now I still need to adjust the front hoop pipe to allow more up and down travel

 

Holy hell no I couldn't run that lol. before I put bigger front tires on I touched k-member to ground.

 

oh, lol damn didnt know you had slammed it that low lol
yeah, unless you run the pping up and into the cabin (another member did that, very stealth) your gonna have to figure out a front mount unless you wanna give up some drop to fit at least a coke can worth of piping in certain sections.
i my self have been wondering if i could sneak the first pipe section up into the car, behind the rear seats and then out back into the rocker somehow. think i might get a loner v6 firebird body one day to try that out on lol just to see how it could be done.

 

That would be crazy..

 

FYI - Another way around this ground clearance / hot pipe and K-member issue is to route the pipe ABOVE the K-member, just to the outside of the steering linkage in the engine compartment - that's how I routed mine - zero issues.

 

Damn! and I thought I had ground clearance issues. . .

 

What did you do to fix your oil problems?

 

although I don think I can do this since I have the UMI RR-Kmember, you got a picture so we can see how it went over?

 

Curious how much $ you have in this set up? Just the turbo and supporting mods not the motor build. Did you fab all the piping yourself?

 

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I did do all the fab work myself so it's not the prettiest but it gets the job done. I fixed the oil leak by getting rid of the junk on3 turbo and went with a ceramic ball bearing turbo from cx racing, very nice quality compared to the on3 crap. I also moved the oil pump behind the turbo so there was less pressure inside the turbo bearing housing, and I also switched to a turbowerx pump. I would say I have around $1500 total in parts.