Boost leak around Injector O-rings
Thread Starter
Launching!
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 204
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From: Jacksonville, Florida
Boost leak around Injector O-rings So my TC78 seemed a lil laggy- never really checked it for boost leaks after the swap was complete.
I found and repaired a large leak at an inter-cooler coupler.
found out my iac motor had no o ring and replaced it.
now im getting a fair sized air leak around most of the injectors.
I pulled the fuel rails and reseated each of the injectors in the manifold w/o the fuel rail but if you move them ever so slightly they deff leak.
they leak somewhat without the fuel rails on the car and wondering if the fuel rails are moving them off center.
Thinking about trying some disc brake lubricant- the clear
(think die electric grease) on the O-rings- anyone else ever have this issue.
If it matters they are the cheapo Pro Products red fuel rails.
I found and repaired a large leak at an inter-cooler coupler.
found out my iac motor had no o ring and replaced it.
now im getting a fair sized air leak around most of the injectors.
I pulled the fuel rails and reseated each of the injectors in the manifold w/o the fuel rail but if you move them ever so slightly they deff leak.
they leak somewhat without the fuel rails on the car and wondering if the fuel rails are moving them off center.
Thinking about trying some disc brake lubricant- the clear
(think die electric grease) on the O-rings- anyone else ever have this issue.
If it matters they are the cheapo Pro Products red fuel rails.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: Missouri
I had this problem with my injectors not wanting to seal up last year. Call it cheap or whatever but all I did was buy an o ring kit and put just a very slightly thicker o ring on my injectors and they sealed up perfect.
Thread Starter
Launching!
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 204
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, Florida
.
Siemen Deka 80's- bought new
Pro Products rails- bought new- If I'm not mistaken the Speed Inc budget rails are the Pro Products as well.
took the fuel lines off- lubed the o rings with Vaseline- let the rails settle in a "natural" position- saw the brackets want to tweak the rails slightly when tightened so I tweaked the brackets until they line up with the rails in the "natural" position- still leaks the same. Im sure the CFM of my turbo is more than enough to compensate but I would like to have the issue resolved.
Im also in speed density mode so the leak shouldn't be casuing any tune issues.
Siemen Deka 80's- bought new
Pro Products rails- bought new- If I'm not mistaken the Speed Inc budget rails are the Pro Products as well.
took the fuel lines off- lubed the o rings with Vaseline- let the rails settle in a "natural" position- saw the brackets want to tweak the rails slightly when tightened so I tweaked the brackets until they line up with the rails in the "natural" position- still leaks the same. Im sure the CFM of my turbo is more than enough to compensate but I would like to have the issue resolved.
Im also in speed density mode so the leak shouldn't be casuing any tune issues.
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Launching!
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 204
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, Florida
So the consensus is thicker O rings- and it looks like a few different methods.
Im all about easy- Do you have a link or part number for the Katech or should I try new OEM injectors O rings.
Would rather not deal with the trial and error of hardware store O rings
thanks
found it !
http://store.katechengines.com/fuel-...ring-p311.aspx
Im all about easy- Do you have a link or part number for the Katech or should I try new OEM injectors O rings.
Would rather not deal with the trial and error of hardware store O rings
thanks
found it !
http://store.katechengines.com/fuel-...ring-p311.aspx
We ran into problems with the Siemens injectors leaking on the engine dyno without boost. The issue with these injectors is that they are just slightly shorter than standard injectors and they also lack the plastic disc at the bottom of the injector where the o-ring mounts. This allows the injectors to ride up out for the hole when used with after market LS style fuel rails.
Our remedy was to shorten the stands for the rails anywhere from 1/8 - 1/4 inch and use thicker o-rings. The o-rings FAST sells are ok, but still fit loosely on these injectors. We sourced our own o-rings that were 16mm OD, 4mm thick, with 8mm opening. This fixed the problem. Sometimes things aren't as "plug and play" as they claim.
Our remedy was to shorten the stands for the rails anywhere from 1/8 - 1/4 inch and use thicker o-rings. The o-rings FAST sells are ok, but still fit loosely on these injectors. We sourced our own o-rings that were 16mm OD, 4mm thick, with 8mm opening. This fixed the problem. Sometimes things aren't as "plug and play" as they claim.
Thread Starter
Launching!
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 204
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, Florida
We ran into problems with the Siemens injectors leaking on the engine dyno without boost. The issue with these injectors is that they are just slightly shorter than standard injectors and they also lack the plastic disc at the bottom of the injector where the o-ring mounts. This allows the injectors to ride up out for the hole when used with after market LS style fuel rails.
Our remedy was to shorten the stands for the rails anywhere from 1/8 - 1/4 inch and use thicker o-rings. The o-rings FAST sells are ok, but still fit loosely on these injectors. We sourced our own o-rings that were 16mm OD, 4mm thick, with 8mm opening. This fixed the problem. Sometimes things aren't as "plug and play" as they claim.
Our remedy was to shorten the stands for the rails anywhere from 1/8 - 1/4 inch and use thicker o-rings. The o-rings FAST sells are ok, but still fit loosely on these injectors. We sourced our own o-rings that were 16mm OD, 4mm thick, with 8mm opening. This fixed the problem. Sometimes things aren't as "plug and play" as they claim.
Appreciate the insight-
I put the injectors and rails on the car without the fuel lines hooked up so the rail with be in its most "natural" position. I pushed down on the rails several times over each injector to make sure it was seated. I then modded the "L" brackets on the rails to make sure they lined up with the rails still in their "relaxed" position.
I will try the O rings next I'm going to Pony Wars this Saturday so I will have to circle back to the issue.
Thanks again for all who have helped !
So the consensus is thicker O rings- and it looks like a few different methods.
Im all about easy- Do you have a link or part number for the Katech or should I try new OEM injectors O rings.
Would rather not deal with the trial and error of hardware store O rings
thanks
found it !
http://store.katechengines.com/fuel-...ring-p311.aspx
Im all about easy- Do you have a link or part number for the Katech or should I try new OEM injectors O rings.
Would rather not deal with the trial and error of hardware store O rings
thanks
found it !
http://store.katechengines.com/fuel-...ring-p311.aspx
So the consensus is thicker O rings- and it looks like a few different methods.
Im all about easy- Do you have a link or part number for the Katech or should I try new OEM injectors O rings.
Would rather not deal with the trial and error of hardware store O rings
thanks
found it !
http://store.katechengines.com/fuel-...ring-p311.aspx
Im all about easy- Do you have a link or part number for the Katech or should I try new OEM injectors O rings.
Would rather not deal with the trial and error of hardware store O rings
thanks
found it !
http://store.katechengines.com/fuel-...ring-p311.aspx
Thread Starter
Launching!
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 204
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, Florida
material, buna n or viton vs natural rubber (maybe be neoprene in some instances (which will hold up to gas) but the high school sales associate wont know what their o-rings are made of)
Thread Starter
Launching!
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 204
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, Florida
no- I do not pull the rockers- the rings seal well enough to find any boost leaks.
boost leak checker made from rubber coupler and pvc cap from home depot racing for about $9- get a metal bolt in valve stem from auto parts store- drill hole and there you go.
I wedge a wrench or something under the throttle body to keep the blade open.
bolt it to the turbo add compressed air.