The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

The last thing I need is more low end power lol. Hell, in first and second gear, I can't use any boost at all or I break the tires loose. Literally, as soon as the bypass valve closes, no matter what rpm, the tires just brake loose. Granted, I'm running 3.73 gears, but still, 1st and 2nd are nearly useless.

35thsscamaro02

lol yeah you keep saying that. you really need to work on suspension and a better tire and wheel combination. I have zero traction problems with my M/T drag radials or slicks during the warmer months. Im running a 3.89 gear so its not the gearing its your tires/wheels and suspension.

stevieturbo

Yes it will, because it allows you to reduce power/torque at lower speeds/loads/rpm/gears's to assist with traction.
Depending on what control methods you have available.

And as Jax says, it's been covered dozens if not hundreds of times. Search.

stevieturbo

You need more power then

On a drag strip with suitable tyres, then obviously there is huge amounts of traction.

On the street, anything below 100mph, 1-3rd gears and I can barely touch the throttle or it lights the tyres.
Even in 4th gear in the mid range at circa 120mph, it's quite easy to break traction. Drag radials might help that on the street, but they wouldnt be legal for me in the UK, and probably wouldnt last 1500miles even if they were.

So moves to reduce the torque available in the lower gears or at lower speeds can be beneficial, especially from a safety perspective.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Yeah, my suspesnion isn't setup for dragracing. I've got konis with Strano springs. Tires are 305/30/19 toyo R888s, so not a real soft sidewall, but it's the same tire that the TT Gallardos and GTR's run. I never really got a chance to heat cycle them in the fall, but this spring I will and hopefully I'll be able to hook in second. It was getting better in the fall. They would spin, but more controlled. I think I'm making more power than you as well. I make 15psi of boost by 6700, and my setup made over 400ft/lbs of torque NA before the blower.

It's fun, and I already have a 3.4" pulley to replace my 4.00" this spring.

35thsscamaro02

Yeah I have no idea what I'm making now. I'll have a dyno up soon. My guess would be similar to what it dynoed before. 670-700ish

allout06

iTrader: (11)

it may be the same tire, but those GTRs and gallardos are all wheel drive also lol. look into some M/H drag radials. seen lots of guys running them on the street and have good luck., but i just realized u run a 19" wheel. so nvm lol...n e way, Thats what i plan on running after my TT build is completed. You have konis but there are still guys cutting great 60' 's with konis.

i plan on tryin this tire out.. (might pick up a set of 15" rear dark stars again though)

http://www.mandhtires.com/M-H-Drag-R...8#.UR_woVpNb48

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I'm not complaining. The far right peddle is what I use to control traction. Just drove it today and it's fine. First and second you just have to drive it like a normal person lol.

js2fst

iTrader: (12)

I am under the impression you bleed boost in lower gears and close it up on the big end for more power

97WS6SCharged

iTrader: (1)

That's one way of doing it. Or you can use it to produce boost faster at lower rpms and still set a reasonable amount at higher RPM so you don't grenade a stock piston.

I question the idea that spinning the blower faster will add substantial heat energy to the air charge though. You're spinning the blower impeller faster which will increase heat from friction slightly but you're still only compressing the air to a set pressure and venting anything beyond that. It's 3 in the morning and I'm not a chemical engineer by any means so if that's wrong don't hesitate to correct me.

js2fst

iTrader: (12)

I am doing a f1-a or f1-c and on daily driving I want it to be more streetable. But as the rpm's come up extra won't hurt. But when I hit third gear it would be nice to close up the wastegate on the big end. It will be controled by a eboost2. The 408 with brute speed cam should be enough to start with. I have the ProCharger fmic so as far as compressed air it will be vented.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

That's impressive for a stock short block! Bob

js2fst

iTrader: (12)

And the ramp speed is as impressive

Camper

iTrader: (1)

you place the wastegate before the intercooler with whatever boost spring you want to run. This allows you to pulley down and create higher boost in the lower rpm. Fairly simple, but you'll have to get some fabrication done to place the wastegate

tylerj

iTrader: (8)

My buddy did a wastegate on his street car. The reason he wanted to was because on 90 octane he would detonate on high boost without race fuel, so he would just set the wastegate on low boost on street and turn it up when he added race fuel

35thsscamaro02

Yea it's amazing how long this motor has lasted me. Made 600rwhp on bottle for. 3 years and now 670rwhp for a year now. I think it's a combination of good tune a crap load of meth and a lot of luck. I had to rebuild my blower because of a inlet mishap. My 4.25 pulley got damaged so I threw on my 3.4 and a wastegate :-)

TAHOE5.3

iTrader: (4)

It's been attempted before and the results were far different then expected. Not sure what page.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ld-thread.html

35thsscamaro02

The big thing on doing a wastegate setup is picking the right size wastegate. To Big and it will bleed boost way to fast. To small won't bleed quick enough.

stevieturbo

Or just just your BOV and you dont need to **** about with wastegates at all.

stmz28

iTrader: (9)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ower-cars.html