High HP E85 Turbo Tune
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I don't think so I was just curious. Mine is less than 100 cruising and at a full pull at 25lbs of boost it would be around 179 degrees and for a split second after you let off the throttle it would hit 199. It's been staying together I was just curious how high is acceptable. Especially since some E85 guys as myself don't use an Intercooler.
hey wicked, i think your leaving some on the table with that rich afr. i bet if you lean it a little bit you will pick up a few mph. btw, did i read that your going to the track next week? hopefully that pg and those 70's get that bitch to launch!!!
I don't think so I was just curious. Mine is less than 100 cruising and at a full pull at 25lbs of boost it would be around 179 degrees and for a split second after you let off the throttle it would hit 199. It's been staying together I was just curious how high is acceptable. Especially since some E85 guys as myself don't use an Intercooler.
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I am running the On3 twin 70mm's.
Yes, I am hitting the track Saturday and maybe sunday. I do plan to try and lean it up a little. I also have to figure out why it is at 13.5 degrees of timing at WOT. I have it at 16 but when I log it is at 13.5. Something is causing it to pull timing. It must be from IAT or coolent temps. That is the only thing I can think of. I am still new to tuning so hard for me to decipher this **** most of the time. If I can get it to run the 16 degrees at WOT I was planning to bump it up to 17 and then 18. I have no plans to go any higher than that at WOT.
I got everything done except the drive shaft in. Hopefully it will be ready to pick up tomorrow. Then I can fill it up with fluid, fill up with water in the radiator and get all the air out and hopefully drive this thing on the road a couple days first and do some logging on the back road.
I will let you all know how it does. My plan is to strictly work on the launch. We know it runs well on the big end. However, it will never ET good unless it launches well. If things go well I hope to launch this thing at 10lbs of boost and get some 1.4 60fts. If it does it will make some low 6 passes.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot. I ordered some BR7ef plugs and will try them for the first time. I have been running the NGK 5724-8's
Yes, I am hitting the track Saturday and maybe sunday. I do plan to try and lean it up a little. I also have to figure out why it is at 13.5 degrees of timing at WOT. I have it at 16 but when I log it is at 13.5. Something is causing it to pull timing. It must be from IAT or coolent temps. That is the only thing I can think of. I am still new to tuning so hard for me to decipher this **** most of the time. If I can get it to run the 16 degrees at WOT I was planning to bump it up to 17 and then 18. I have no plans to go any higher than that at WOT.
I got everything done except the drive shaft in. Hopefully it will be ready to pick up tomorrow. Then I can fill it up with fluid, fill up with water in the radiator and get all the air out and hopefully drive this thing on the road a couple days first and do some logging on the back road.
I will let you all know how it does. My plan is to strictly work on the launch. We know it runs well on the big end. However, it will never ET good unless it launches well. If things go well I hope to launch this thing at 10lbs of boost and get some 1.4 60fts. If it does it will make some low 6 passes.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot. I ordered some BR7ef plugs and will try them for the first time. I have been running the NGK 5724-8's
im thinking on trying the BR7ef's too. where you getting them from?
my timing table never matched to my data logs. when i wanted to change timing at wot i would follow through and figure out which cells my timing was low and add however much to that cell to achieve my timing goal.
ex.
heres a log i have. you can see that that cell shows 17* timing
heres the exact cell in my tune which shows a commanded 16* timing
lets say i wanted to have 18* timing. i would add 1* to that cell in my tune even though i would be commanding it at 17*. i would go and do this to every cell that got hit in that wot run and adjust each cell according to what the data log says. even though my tune file has a target of 16*, it may not put out that much timing. idk if this is the right way but it worked for me lol. theirs more than one way to skin a cat
my timing table never matched to my data logs. when i wanted to change timing at wot i would follow through and figure out which cells my timing was low and add however much to that cell to achieve my timing goal.
ex.
heres a log i have. you can see that that cell shows 17* timing
heres the exact cell in my tune which shows a commanded 16* timing
lets say i wanted to have 18* timing. i would add 1* to that cell in my tune even though i would be commanding it at 17*. i would go and do this to every cell that got hit in that wot run and adjust each cell according to what the data log says. even though my tune file has a target of 16*, it may not put out that much timing. idk if this is the right way but it worked for me lol. theirs more than one way to skin a cat
Last edited by T76s10; Feb 18, 2013 at 10:37 PM.
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im thinking on trying the BR7ef's too. where you getting them from?
my timing table never matched to my data logs. when i wanted to change timing at wot i would follow through and figure out which cells my timing was low and add however much to that cell to achieve my timing goal.
ex.
heres a log i have. you can see that that cell shows 17* timing
heres the exact cell in my tune which shows a commanded 16* timing
lets say i wanted to have 18* timing. i would add 1* to that cell in my tune even though i would be commanding it at 17*. i would go and do this to every cell that got hit in that wot run and adjust each cell according to what the data log says. even though my tune file has a target of 16*, it may not put out that much timing. idk if this is the right way but it worked for me lol. theirs more than one way to skin a cat
my timing table never matched to my data logs. when i wanted to change timing at wot i would follow through and figure out which cells my timing was low and add however much to that cell to achieve my timing goal.
ex.
heres a log i have. you can see that that cell shows 17* timing
heres the exact cell in my tune which shows a commanded 16* timing
lets say i wanted to have 18* timing. i would add 1* to that cell in my tune even though i would be commanding it at 17*. i would go and do this to every cell that got hit in that wot run and adjust each cell according to what the data log says. even though my tune file has a target of 16*, it may not put out that much timing. idk if this is the right way but it worked for me lol. theirs more than one way to skin a cat
haha thanks hopefully that will get your timing up there. yeah 13.5 timing and 10.8ish afr is leaving quite a bit on the table. i would aim for around 11.5afr and 18* timing. that should be plenty safe and get you to launch that heavy bitch lol.
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Question: I noticed your timing was crazy high in the top part of that chart. Is that where you were trying to build boost on the transbrake? The only reason I ask is 33 degrees is as high as I had mine in that category. I didn't want to change that area to the 50's like yours but I just added 10 to all of the cells in that area.
haha i give you permission to come after me. im confident it will work its a really simple theory and it worked out perfect for me.
that timing table was used with my previous 5.3/t76 when i didnt have a trans brake. i never touched that part of the timing table because i dont think it was ever used. i cant remember if that was in the 50's from the stock tune or what but my timing has never been that high lol. atleast i dont think
that timing table was used with my previous 5.3/t76 when i didnt have a trans brake. i never touched that part of the timing table because i dont think it was ever used. i cant remember if that was in the 50's from the stock tune or what but my timing has never been that high lol. atleast i dont think
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Okay, good to know. I did find on the histogram where my timing was low in the scanner, and then went into editor and made the changes by adding the appropriate degrees to get it to 17 degrees at WOT. I will see how it does there First.
The way it has been explained to me is that unless you're getting IATs from the runner right before the intake valve (incredibly unlikely), it's really not an accurate variable to look at. I've heard of people pegging an IAT at 255* 2 seconds into a pass, and they haven't blown anything up. They also said checking plugs is FAR more important than an IAT sensor about 20" before the intake valve and before it gets fuel thrown at it.
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The way it has been explained to me is that unless you're getting IATs from the runner right before the intake valve (incredibly unlikely), it's really not an accurate variable to look at. I've heard of people pegging an IAT at 255* 2 seconds into a pass, and they haven't blown anything up. They also said checking plugs is FAR more important than an IAT sensor about 20" before the intake valve and before it gets fuel thrown at it.
I read the plugs more than anything else. However, that is an art in itself and plenty of people have posted the plugs looked great and then boom!
I just wanted to make sure I was in a NORMAL zone. I think I am.
hopefully it puts you close to 17 degrees. you'll notice for the first time you go and drive it now you adjusted your timing table that you'll probably get 18* in some cells but for the most part it should keep you in the 17* range. just make sure to log like 3 wot runs and then tune your table according to them
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hopefully it puts you close to 17 degrees. you'll notice for the first time you go and drive it now you adjusted your timing table that you'll probably get 18* in some cells but for the most part it should keep you in the 17* range. just make sure to log like 3 wot runs and then tune your table according to them
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Okay, my first test today with the changes worked well. I am now trying to figure out the following. If I have the 2 step set for 4k and it kicks in at 4k. At that point my boost is 6-7lbs. So I was then going to pull -10 degrees of timing on my main spark table in that area. I was also going to hit the cell above and below. Please look at the following attachment and tell me if this is the correct area and looks as though it would give the "anti lag" that people are referring to? It is highlighted in purple where I drop the timing. Again, I am not positive this would be the correct area but looking at my logs from today I think I have this correct. Please set me straight. Once again, I can easily get the 6-7lbs but no more.
Last edited by Wicked69; Nov 5, 2013 at 04:48 PM.
I'm assuming you have the msd two step? When you log while on two step does it hit that area you highlighted in your timing table? I would think that would work but wouldn't that effect your daily wot driving at that point in the table? Since we don't have two spark tables, i would think that when you make a pull when your not on two step that you timing would drop at that point in the graph. I'm not sure though i have never tuned for a trans brake or 2 step. I think this is where lingenfelters 2 step would come I'm handy because it has timing retard built in. That way you wouldn't have to mess with your timing table as much to build boost
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I'm assuming you have the msd two step? When you log while on two step does it hit that area you highlighted in your timing table? I would think that would work but wouldn't that effect your daily wot driving at that point in the table? Since we don't have two spark tables, i would think that when you make a pull when your not on two step that you timing would drop at that point in the graph. I'm not sure though i have never tuned for a trans brake or 2 step. I think this is where lingenfelters 2 step would come I'm handy because it has timing retard built in. That way you wouldn't have to mess with your timing table as much to build boost
Yes, I have the MSD 2 Step
Anyways, I couldn't wait until morning so I tried it in the garage. It worked a little better so it definitely helped. I built boost really quick once I actually tried. I stayed on the button until the throttle went back down. Didn't want to let the button go in the garage. lol