View Poll Results: How do you install head studs
thread lock all the bolts in the block and top threads
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Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 29. You may not vote on this poll
head stud install poll?
Blow dry holes in block
Arp lube on block side threads
Bottom out stud in block, then back off 1/4-1/2 turn
Wipe off block deck with acetone
Head gasket / head
Arp lube on top threads
Torque to Arp spec's
Arp lube on block side threads
Bottom out stud in block, then back off 1/4-1/2 turn
Wipe off block deck with acetone
Head gasket / head
Arp lube on top threads
Torque to Arp spec's
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Aluminum block, put some oil on the studs before threading into the block. Iron block doesnt really matter. Bottom out the studs snug and go. Dont get to excited with oil and hydraulic the studs haha. Arp moly on the washers ans threads and torque to 80ftlbs.
Clean the holes, install studs dry hand tight. Install gasket and then head, apply arp lube to both sides of washer and under the nut head and a little on the threading.
Torque in sequence, that's what I did..
You shouldn't have to oil the studs since they come coated with a little lube.
Torque in sequence, that's what I did..
You shouldn't have to oil the studs since they come coated with a little lube.
just dip the stud in the lube ........ oh just kidding .
for me i just lubricate any stud thread and torque it down x route and starting 25ft for first lap and for the second 55ft and for third 75ft (( carefully )) until i fell that it's getting tighter to go more than normal bring it out to check the stud thread for any missed spots and re tighting the stud to 92 ft (( iron block )) and after i get all stud to 92 ft i go to lossen them up littel and go again to final torque target (( 90ft )) that just my method and it's working for me 813 rwhp .
for me i just lubricate any stud thread and torque it down x route and starting 25ft for first lap and for the second 55ft and for third 75ft (( carefully )) until i fell that it's getting tighter to go more than normal bring it out to check the stud thread for any missed spots and re tighting the stud to 92 ft (( iron block )) and after i get all stud to 92 ft i go to lossen them up littel and go again to final torque target (( 90ft )) that just my method and it's working for me 813 rwhp .
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the instructions are the same for the smaller studs and torque to 25lbs
they don't mention install dry, but they come packaged in a thin layer of lube to protect them.. I think the term "dry" meaning to don't add lube to them or oil... plus they don't need it since they thread in easily with your hand, it would be pointless to add any type of lube to the studs..
and you don't have to tighten and then back them out and re torque,, with the ARP ultra torque lube they are supposed to be within 5% of the torque rating on the "1st" torque down... with the old ARP moly lube you have to deburr the bolt 3-5 times prior to final torque down..
What if u torque down the studs and u domt have torwue wrench for the small set. 5 on top of each head. And u use a wratchet and socket get pretty snug. If u feel it snug and aboit let loose and u feel it give a little should u back out and retorque or will is hurt anything? Is there water jackets around the top area?
Tightened my Ching Chongs all the way to the bottom with the Allen heads. Threw the gaskets on (after copper spraying them), one pass at 50ft lbs. second pass at 70ish ft lbs. and I used the stock head bolts for the little ones, I only used the Ching Chongs for the 10 big ones on each side. Oh, and I used rotella 15w40 on the threads for the nuts. Lol
