SPOOLED UP

iTrader: (2)

what do u do and why

obviously a LS engine!

got-a-ls1

iTrader: (12)

i installed dry, used arp lube on the threads and torqued to their specs. didnt anyproblems making ~700rwhp on 3 layer mls gaskets

club_xcursion

iTrader: (6)

i also did dry then arp lube on the top threads. i didnt feel like they needed any in the block since i torqued the nuts and not the studs

conan

iTrader: (5)

Blow dry holes in block
Arp lube on block side threads
Bottom out stud in block, then back off 1/4-1/2 turn
Wipe off block deck with acetone
Head gasket / head
Arp lube on top threads
Torque to Arp spec's

malarlar

Aluminum block, put some oil on the studs before threading into the block. Iron block doesnt really matter. Bottom out the studs snug and go. Dont get to excited with oil and hydraulic the studs haha. Arp moly on the washers ans threads and torque to 80ftlbs.

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

Clean the holes, install studs dry hand tight. Install gasket and then head, apply arp lube to both sides of washer and under the nut head and a little on the threading.

Torque in sequence, that's what I did..

You shouldn't have to oil the studs since they come coated with a little lube.

Ls-x

iTrader: (3)

just dip the stud in the lube ........ oh just kidding .

for me i just lubricate any stud thread and torque it down x route and starting 25ft for first lap and for the second 55ft and for third 75ft (( carefully )) until i fell that it's getting tighter to go more than normal bring it out to check the stud thread for any missed spots and re tighting the stud to 92 ft (( iron block )) and after i get all stud to 92 ft i go to lossen them up littel and go again to final torque target (( 90ft )) that just my method and it's working for me 813 rwhp .

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

Didn't see this option on the poll..........Read/follow the instructions.

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

here



the instructions are the same for the smaller studs and torque to 25lbs

they don't mention install dry, but they come packaged in a thin layer of lube to protect them.. I think the term "dry" meaning to don't add lube to them or oil... plus they don't need it since they thread in easily with your hand, it would be pointless to add any type of lube to the studs..

and you don't have to tighten and then back them out and re torque,, with the ARP ultra torque lube they are supposed to be within 5% of the torque rating on the "1st" torque down... with the old ARP moly lube you have to deburr the bolt 3-5 times prior to final torque down..

ws6guy27

iTrader: (31)

What if u torque down the studs and u domt have torwue wrench for the small set. 5 on top of each head. And u use a wratchet and socket get pretty snug. If u feel it snug and aboit let loose and u feel it give a little should u back out and retorque or will is hurt anything? Is there water jackets around the top area?

ws6guy27

iTrader: (31)

Reqlly pqranoid about messing up a water jacket. I didnt tighten down the small3r studs tight as I could. Just the extra movement after I held steady pressure worries me

CameronVic

iTrader: (5)

Tightened my Ching Chongs all the way to the bottom with the Allen heads. Threw the gaskets on (after copper spraying them), one pass at 50ft lbs. second pass at 70ish ft lbs. and I used the stock head bolts for the little ones, I only used the Ching Chongs for the 10 big ones on each side. Oh, and I used rotella 15w40 on the threads for the nuts. Lol

ws6guy27

iTrader: (31)

Still doesnt answer my question abt if I messed anything up or if I need to retorque the small ones.. really worried abt water jackets

CameronVic

iTrader: (5)

That smaller ones have nothing to do with the water jackets.