Extending MAF with MAFT good or bad idea?
Anybody out there doing this?
Worth finding a used MAFT or just add fuel via the PE vs RPM table?
I kinda like the idea of the computer being able to do it's job but on the other hand I don't want to waste $100
You would adjust the base, then adjust the IFR table to get your trims back in line if you wanted to use the MAFT with edit. Your reported airflow can be adjusted easily like that, but you will have to scale your PE table OR use the WOT setting on the MAFT to adjust the WOT fueling. I modified the MAF so it reads lower and extended the MAF table in edit so it reads to 67lb/min. It works fine for me, I use the MAFT just for wide open setting, my WOT a/f is very consistant from 45 to 90 degress out plus I am just a couple a clicks away from changing my a/f according to the in car wideband. I have the PE table adjusted so the car is ~11:1 a/f and each click of the WOT setting on the MAFT is .5 a/f +/- change. I still get good mileage, driveslike stock and my ltrims vary little from cell to cell and I dont have to mess with LS1edit at the track. Works for me anyhow..
You can pick up a used MAFT for 50.00 so its worth playing with, dont get hung up on the version numbers they all do the same thing except the newest 5.2 version has the switch for the 85mm truck MAFs.
I ran my old car with nothing but a MAFT and 38lb injectors and basically that is what I did. The MAF read 42.5 lbs at WOT since I had the base cranked down so much to use the bigger injectors, there was no LS1edit available at the time. Only problem I had doing it that way was the car would run rich on a dead cold start for a few seconds but other then that the car drove just as well as this one...

I have noticed that my EFI logs show the frequency still going up (but it is obviously out of the PCMs range). I’ve had to do all my tuning with PE vs RPM and I would love to have something that was a bit more adaptive.
So how does the WOT setting work on a MAFT. At what frequency does it start to adjust the output frequency.

I dont know what frequency or how the MAFT puts itself in WOT mode, I would assume anything past a certain frquency triggers it. One of the guys that designed the thing was working with me to try to get the super rich cold starts fixed and he explained it but I just dont remember, was a few years ago.
You will notice in the image of my efi log below that my maf reading is flat above 1200HZ (which is bascally all gears but first for me now).
the blue line is raw freqency and the yellow line is g/sec
Last edited by QuickSilver2002; Apr 21, 2004 at 10:07 PM.
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Its really not that bad using the PE tables only except weather changes hurt, using a MAFT along with an in car wideband and the MAF working all the way to redline makes quick a/f changes at the track a breeze and weather changes affect WOT a/f very little. I'm sure there are better ways of doing it but this works for me
Its also working pretty well on a TT C5 I am playing with.. My car runs great the way it is now, I just have to keep it pretty pig rich at WOT and I'm always having to keep an eye on it (which does get old).
Wow KP, it looks like you are running some pretty stout timing there. 25* ehh. I thought I was being pretty aggresive with 19-20.

The idea of using the MAFT Blackbird was referring to (I think) is to bring down the base on it so the overall reading of the MAF is lower and it car read the whole range. If the metal MAF stops at 1200hz then the MAFT wont work but the resistor mod will. I'll find out when I try the dry shot of n2o
If I didnt have the resistor in the MAF and had the screen still in it it would max out at 5800rpm. You will see what happens when you play with it, everything will still 'work' fine, it will take some playing with but it will work up to certain point - try it and see, its free

