D1SC, new to the FI World..help
D1SC, new to the FI World..help I will be purchasing a d1sc procharger in the next few days and I have a few questions. Currently I have a yank ss4000 stall, bolt ons, 42# injectors, fast 92 setup and a 228r cam. I know I will have to upgrade from my walbro 255 pump and upgrade my injectors as well. Will the Siemens 60# be enough? If I'm not mistaking, I think my tuner may have mention either 60# or 80#. Do I need to change my converter? I also have the chance to "upgrade" my cam to a 242/244 610/612 114lsa, would this be better than the 228r? I know the power band will shift but I don't want to have only a top end car but I don't mind giving up a lil down low. Help me out a lil guys, I'm new to the FI world. Thanks
Don't really have any goals as far as power goes right now. Just looking to add power, prob run around 10# of boost til I forge the bottom end. If the newer parts will work better than my old setup then I want to make sure I get the "right" parts. I also don't want a slug off the line but the torque I make down low is enough for me so I don't mind sacrificing a lil down low to make it up and some in the mid/upper range. I also have 373 gears also
Sounds like my old build all over again almost to a tee. racetronix 255/hotwire. 60# injectors. D1, FMIC, 8 Rib, Truck Inlet/Filter
Dont let anyone tell you the 228 wont make power on boost. It has actually proven to be quite monstrous with a D1. I wouldnt worry about the cam until it was time to pull the motor apart for forging, otherwise your going to do it twice.
These are just recommendations, and im not going to pretend to have all the answers, but, if I were you
I would:
A. Plan on no more than 6-8#'s
B. Look into methanol injection
C. Keep the 4000 stall (peak torque comes in around there anyway)
D. Get at least 100lb+ injectors (youll need them later)
E. Get a great tuner, and enjoy the time youve got.
F. Studs & Gaskets
Edit: FYI I made 599.3 rwhp @ 5900 RPM on a stingy dyno with that setup on 9lbs. The tune was great 93/meth, but the motor only held through 4 pulls. Most do though. But I beat on mine alot. Better to go after a little now, and enjoy it, than to go for alot, and never even drive it.
Dont let anyone tell you the 228 wont make power on boost. It has actually proven to be quite monstrous with a D1. I wouldnt worry about the cam until it was time to pull the motor apart for forging, otherwise your going to do it twice.
These are just recommendations, and im not going to pretend to have all the answers, but, if I were you
I would:
A. Plan on no more than 6-8#'s
B. Look into methanol injection
C. Keep the 4000 stall (peak torque comes in around there anyway)
D. Get at least 100lb+ injectors (youll need them later)
E. Get a great tuner, and enjoy the time youve got.
F. Studs & Gaskets
Edit: FYI I made 599.3 rwhp @ 5900 RPM on a stingy dyno with that setup on 9lbs. The tune was great 93/meth, but the motor only held through 4 pulls. Most do though. But I beat on mine alot. Better to go after a little now, and enjoy it, than to go for alot, and never even drive it.
Last edited by I8UR4RD; Apr 7, 2013 at 11:52 AM.
If you don't have the ability to adjust fuel pressure then 100+ lb/hr injectors are not going to work. If you don't have a return system/adjustable regulator talk it over with your tuner which injectors to get. 60's may not be enough and 80's might be too much at idle.
599 or anything close would be great. I'm just really trying to get the parts, put them on ride it for a few months then forge it and up the boost. I was also thinking of putting a meth kit as well
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11 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 499
Likes: 0
From: saint louis Missouri
With a 7.65 crank and 4.25 I made 11psi. Stage3 ls6 heads 228/228 113lsa cam with 10bolt 668rwhp. I would go 4.25 or bigger. Or throw a wastegate on it like I Have now 3.4pully still 11psi just ALOT quicker in rpms I dunno if I would do pully down ans wastegate with those shitty intercoolers unless your spraying a lot of meth. Good luck!
I running #60 Siemens and that was plenty with a return style and boost reference fuel regulator .
My setup is a d1 on 10lbs going through a built a4 and a moser 12 bolt. Car made 660 rwhp two weeks ago on dyno jet.
I will be bringing it back soon with new fti converter and snow stage 2 meth kit. Still on the stock built converter.
Hoping to make about 720rwhp.
# 60 should be ok for you
My setup is a d1 on 10lbs going through a built a4 and a moser 12 bolt. Car made 660 rwhp two weeks ago on dyno jet.
I will be bringing it back soon with new fti converter and snow stage 2 meth kit. Still on the stock built converter.
Hoping to make about 720rwhp.
# 60 should be ok for you
Thanks guys, anywhere close to 600 hp is plenty enough right now for me. I have another question though. I have a Chris1313 ram air kit that I never install for the car. Will the procharger and procharger kit keep me from installing it? If so I can sell it to a friend of mine.
11 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 499
Likes: 0
From: saint louis Missouri
Thanks guys, anywhere close to 600 hp is plenty enough right now for me. I have another question though. I have a Chris1313 ram air kit that I never install for the car. Will the procharger and procharger kit keep me from installing it? If so I can sell it to a friend of mine.
Methanol helps to cool the combustion chamber and helps to keep the piston alive for a while. Because of this, I actually reccomend running 50/50 meoh/water. Sure, lots of people make big power with pure meoh, but if longevity or a stock shortblock is what you're after, having the water injected helps to cool the pistons far better than meoh alone. The meoh will evaporate in the intake track, cooling the intake charge dramatically, but what we're after isn't detonation suppression, it's cooling of the piston, which the water injection does 4x better than meoh.
Why do you think GM put oil squirters in the ls9? To keep the pistons cool. Although meoh will help, meoh/water will do it much more efficiently, and it's 50% cheaper.