KAOS is born
#1
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picked up the new car today. 1998 pontiac formula ws6. hardtop, cloth interior, M6, 63000 miles. BONE STOCK. this is the way the car came in 98. its bright red and has very few scratches. garage kept. that is true, this dude had the facility to keep it in. no rips in the seats. runs and drives like a top. he ran a 13.6 on F-1's and some bilstein shocks. he was into road racing and the suspension is as stiff as a kob. he only had it to a road cours 3 times in the last 6 years. not ran too hard. Nothing like my old car was run. First wave of mods are as follows:
wave 1
qmp turbo kit
ls6 intake
new clutch
6.0L stock heads
pro 5.0 shifter
sub frames
wave 2 Suspension
12 bolt
lca's
torque arm
drag lites w/ sticky tires
hal shocks
Any other suggestions would be apprecitated.
wave 1
qmp turbo kit
ls6 intake
new clutch
6.0L stock heads
pro 5.0 shifter
sub frames
wave 2 Suspension
12 bolt
lca's
torque arm
drag lites w/ sticky tires
hal shocks
Any other suggestions would be apprecitated.
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I would get twin 340 pumps just to be safe, you'll end up getting them anyways in the future or something more serious than that, but that will carry you a far ways.....
I would get 42.5lb injectors for now if you are going to be in the 500-550 range for power with 7-8lbs of boost......on pump gas.....
Get some 73cc chamber 6.0L heads, that will drop the comp ratio down under 9.5:1
I would get 42.5lb injectors for now if you are going to be in the 500-550 range for power with 7-8lbs of boost......on pump gas.....
Get some 73cc chamber 6.0L heads, that will drop the comp ratio down under 9.5:1
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Yea, the tune can be pushed pretty far, but it all depends on how long you want that 60,000 + motor to last......
Robs car is making some sick power on stock heads/cam
Robs car is making some sick power on stock heads/cam
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#9
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i know that thing is awesome, not sure i will ever make that kind of power or not but it would be fun trying. for now that motor has to last a while. like for it to be a pretty safe tune. also will a stock MAF work or should i step it up. i am brand new at this game and Cannibals brother will be helping with the initial tune, hes pretty good but he has only done NA cars, how much of a difference is there. All input is greatly appreciated
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Tuning F.I. cars takes some work, just needs to work with it I guess and make sure the AFR is in a safe range, I would start with 5-6psi then work up from there, you should be able to see how far it can be safely pushed on a 93 octane tune
#12
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Here are my comments....
Just get the Lou's Short Stick, that'll save you from having to buy the Pro 5.0.
Clutch - Spec 3, do this as one of the first things, get it broken in and ready to go, I don't think the stock clutch would survive more than a few dyno pulls on the QMP kit.
LS6 Intake can be had on E-bay for $279 I believe + shipping.
6-Point Roll Cage
Moser 12 Bolt (Ask Rob or someone what gearing for the FI you're doing)
Denny's Nitrous Ready Driveshaft w/1350 yolk
Torque Arm
Drive Shaft Safety Loop
QTP Cutout
We can make your own LCAs with the QA1 XM ends, same goes for the PHB
Airbag for right rear spring, too
Boost Gauge
Fuel Pressure Gauge
Dual Pillar Pod
Finally, have Rob dyno tune it for you to safe tune. I'd say with a good, safe street tune, you could put down at least 600 RWHP, no problem. Then if you want more later on, get an APE cheap street 347 forged short block.
Originally Posted by KAOS
wave 1
qmp turbo kit
ls6 intake
new clutch
6.0L stock heads
pro 5.0 shifter
sub frames
qmp turbo kit
ls6 intake
new clutch
6.0L stock heads
pro 5.0 shifter
sub frames
Clutch - Spec 3, do this as one of the first things, get it broken in and ready to go, I don't think the stock clutch would survive more than a few dyno pulls on the QMP kit.
LS6 Intake can be had on E-bay for $279 I believe + shipping.
Originally Posted by KAOS
wave 2 Suspension
12 bolt
lca's
torque arm
drag lites w/ sticky tires
hal shocks
12 bolt
lca's
torque arm
drag lites w/ sticky tires
hal shocks
Moser 12 Bolt (Ask Rob or someone what gearing for the FI you're doing)
Denny's Nitrous Ready Driveshaft w/1350 yolk
Torque Arm
Drive Shaft Safety Loop
QTP Cutout
We can make your own LCAs with the QA1 XM ends, same goes for the PHB
Airbag for right rear spring, too
Boost Gauge
Fuel Pressure Gauge
Dual Pillar Pod
Finally, have Rob dyno tune it for you to safe tune. I'd say with a good, safe street tune, you could put down at least 600 RWHP, no problem. Then if you want more later on, get an APE cheap street 347 forged short block.
Last edited by CANNIBAL; 04-23-2004 at 08:42 AM.
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I think your shifter is a personal choice. I've driven a lous SS and didn't like it. I have a Pro 5.0 and cut the shaft down and it's perfect. You definitely don't want to use a stock shifter, lous or no lous. Get the Pro 5.0. I'd also consider throwing the rear into wave 1. In a 6 speed with as much power as you'll be making it's gonna die a quick death. Clutch, I'd say Mcleod SDK(if this sees occational track time) or twin disk(for a more serious track car). You could also probably put the LS6 in wave two. It's helpful but not neccessary. Clutch, Rear, Turbo, and most importantly fuel is what you should focus on in the first wave in my opinion.
Mike
Mike
#14
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car is going to be at the track but more on the street, fuel pump is coming from racetronix, warbird is going to get it for me and send it with the kit. rear will hold up on the street not at the track i know. goal is to get everything up front fixed first then the suspension, up front includes fuel. thanks for all the suggestions, keep them coming
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6L heads (4 inch bore) arent the best choice for a 3.90 bore engine. Might want to reconsider that.
I would run stock heads and can and throw in good springs (02 LS6 springs would work fine)
Put the money into the fuel system now. big injectors (at least 50#) and good pump.
Put money away for a proper tuning session and eventually put more money away for a rebuild down the road![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I would run stock heads and can and throw in good springs (02 LS6 springs would work fine)
Put the money into the fuel system now. big injectors (at least 50#) and good pump.
Put money away for a proper tuning session and eventually put more money away for a rebuild down the road
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)
#17
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Originally Posted by bomax
Go to hell, I already have that designation
my car is 'CHAOSS'
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I'm running some 5.7L heads on my bored out motor, the 6.0L when I wanted them were on backorder.....didn't feel like waiting.....
I had the Pro 5.0 with my 6-speed, that was a badass shifter.......
I had the Pro 5.0 with my 6-speed, that was a badass shifter.......
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#19
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Originally Posted by Chris ARE 360
6L heads (4 inch bore) arent the best choice for a 3.90 bore engine. Might want to reconsider that.
I would run stock heads and can and throw in good springs (02 LS6 springs would work fine)
Put the money into the fuel system now. big injectors (at least 50#) and good pump.
Put money away for a proper tuning session and eventually put more money away for a rebuild down the road![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)
I would run stock heads and can and throw in good springs (02 LS6 springs would work fine)
Put the money into the fuel system now. big injectors (at least 50#) and good pump.
Put money away for a proper tuning session and eventually put more money away for a rebuild down the road
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)