What oil are you guys running in your turbo cars??
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Have you done oil analysis to determine the interval? A google search on the matter comes up with people changing the oil after 1 track outing to those who don't change it the whole season.
I appreciate the input because changing oil is not my favorite thing in the world to do.
I appreciate the input because changing oil is not my favorite thing in the world to do.
#85
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Originally Posted by GMCtrk
Have you done oil analysis to determine the interval? A google search on the matter comes up with people changing the oil after 1 track outing to those who don't change it the whole season.
I appreciate the input because changing oil is not my favorite thing in the world to do.
I appreciate the input because changing oil is not my favorite thing in the world to do.
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god those are huge. My 122cubic inch engine runs 0.0008" - 0.0012" rod bearing clearances. We use 10W-30 here in Florida, In Japan where the engine originated they use 5W-30. The FSM Says I would be fine even with a 20W-50 here at this ambient temperature, even with such a tight clearance on the rods. The factory redline is 7,200 and the OEM power output is 280bhp.
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I run rotella synthetic 5w40 in my 900whp turbo 370.Have been using for the last 12k miles and 5 years. 22PSI hot idle, 60+ at wot.
It seems everyone runs something different. Maybe it really doesn't matter in the end?
I change mine about every 1500 miles.
It seems everyone runs something different. Maybe it really doesn't matter in the end?
I change mine about every 1500 miles.
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Such a condition would be, a tight clearance OEM engine with low miles, when using 20W-50 engine oil, is also spun past its OEM redline (the owner installed springs/cam to stabilize the valvetrain... however...) Now the engine at 7,200rpm is starving for oil due to the excess viscosity and it will likely spin a rod bearing.
A reverse condition would be an OEM engine, that the owner politely is using the OEM engine oil recommendations (perhaps a 10W-30), pretend we are in Florida where it is 88*F ambient and the asphalt is 107*F one particular day, high noon, and you are tracking your vehicle extensively; Well, not having an oil pressure gauge, and oil temperature gauge, the driver is unaware his engine oil is losing viscosity due to extreme temperature; and indeed, a thicker oil would have survived the situation longer, where the current oil is no longer providing protection.
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It may be that within typical operation, there really is not much difference. There are certain conditions, on the other hand, that might cause one oil to be preferable to another.
Such a condition would be, a tight clearance OEM engine with low miles, when using 20W-50 engine oil, is also spun past its OEM redline (the owner installed springs/cam to stabilize the valvetrain... however...) Now the engine at 7,200rpm is starving for oil due to the excess viscosity and it will likely spin a rod bearing.
A reverse condition would be an OEM engine, that the owner politely is using the OEM engine oil recommendations (perhaps a 10W-30), pretend we are in Florida where it is 88*F ambient and the asphalt is 107*F one particular day, high noon, and you are tracking your vehicle extensively; Well, not having an oil pressure gauge, and oil temperature gauge, the driver is unaware his engine oil is losing viscosity due to extreme temperature; and indeed, a thicker oil would have survived the situation longer, where the current oil is no longer providing protection.
Such a condition would be, a tight clearance OEM engine with low miles, when using 20W-50 engine oil, is also spun past its OEM redline (the owner installed springs/cam to stabilize the valvetrain... however...) Now the engine at 7,200rpm is starving for oil due to the excess viscosity and it will likely spin a rod bearing.
A reverse condition would be an OEM engine, that the owner politely is using the OEM engine oil recommendations (perhaps a 10W-30), pretend we are in Florida where it is 88*F ambient and the asphalt is 107*F one particular day, high noon, and you are tracking your vehicle extensively; Well, not having an oil pressure gauge, and oil temperature gauge, the driver is unaware his engine oil is losing viscosity due to extreme temperature; and indeed, a thicker oil would have survived the situation longer, where the current oil is no longer providing protection.
You would be surprised just how minuet the difference between 15w30 and 15w50 is. Once these oils reach operating temperatures the viscosity differences aren't even close to what your describing. As said earlier everyone had a prefrence.. IMO The only people who should be picking apart oil selection are the guys who live up north and drive their cars in sub 30* weather.