01transampower

iTrader: (9)

I haven't started a thread yet but I have been slowly buying parts for my turbo 5.3 build. I've got about half the parts now and finally had time to open up the 5.3 yesterday.

To dismay cylinder 4 had minor surface rust. Then cylinder 5 was full of rust. So a shitty day to say the least. It looks clean able but I don't know for sure.

Do you guys have suggestions on what I should do? Clean it, bore it out or buy a new block?

Also where could I get pistons and rings if I bore it out or clean it? Thanks for all the help.

1969x11

iTrader: (36)

post some pics, hard to comment without seeing.

01transampower

iTrader: (9)

I'll have to get pics its in the shop. I'll try to get some this week.

narfdanarf

I'd hit it with a dingleberry hone and some WD-40 a few times and see what it looks like once you knock the heavy **** off. As long as it isn't pitted real deep it will be fine.

evo462

iTrader: (27)

Worst case you're out a few hundred bucks to buy another. Could be worse!

Cam72aro

iTrader: (28)

I would thoroughly inspect for cracks. The rust either came from coolant, or outside rain.

01transampower

iTrader: (9)

I know Its been in a warehouse for awhile thats where I bought it from. So rain I'm not to sure but it could be a possibility. And its only in one cylinder really bad and the other is minor. I'll see what I can do. I'll have to get pictures for you guys.

If it does need to be bored out how much bigger can I go on the rings and still be with boost? Leaving the stock size pistons.

giantrules

iTrader: (1)

Like others said...try cleaning it up to see if has pitted the walls. I just finally cracked open the 5.3 sitting in my garage and there was surface rust in 2 of the cylinders from improper storage previously...WD40 and a scotchbrite and it looks good as new...looked horrible from the outside but cylinder walls and rod bearings look factory fresh.

01transampower

iTrader: (9)

Sounds good. I'll give that a shot. Hopefully it works out.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

Bore it and still use the same pistons/rings. Hone maybe a few .001's, but that would require an oversized/file to fit ring set, in order to keep blow by down. Then, you excessive piston to wall clearance.
Dingleberry hone will leave fine rust dust in the pits.. That shyt will kill the rings.

I invested in a bore scope from Home Depot. [Just over $100]. Any engine I look at gets the "procto exam", before I lay out the cashola..
If you can't pop for that, at least pull the friggin plugs and turn it over B4 you pay up....

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Same happened to me, but I was able to get a nice 2005 L33 short block for a little over $350 shipped to the house. It sucks, but I ended up with a better short block and only delayed the project a little.

BMF_Racing

iTrader: (6)

x3 -- ball hone with wd40 and run it. We have had 3 or 4 engines like that and after the hone, check for pitting, if ok run it (we already had pistons out for stock ring regap and rod bolts). We never had issues with rings. All on 550whp to 650whp engines, ran fine. Good Luck either way.