Stainless Procharger J Bracket
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 114
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From: Virginia - Where Rednecks and Presidents Come From
Stainless Procharger J Bracket Ok, so...I'm a master machinist by trade, and I have all the respect in the world for the Procharger headunit's quality and engineering.
BUT...The same cannot be said about their crappy aluminum J-Bracket!
So....I'm considering making a run of perfectly fitting "facsimile" J-Brackets, out of Billet 303 Stainless Steel to put up on here to sell.
The reason I say "facsimile" is because there will be a few thousandths difference between theirs and mine - and mine will be superior in parallelism and location tolerances. I also plan to put in a metric, or fine pitch standard thread for the tensioner bolt to prevent stripping.
I'm just getting a feeler for the market on here, so no obligations, and I'm not taking orders yet...but, IF I did make these, how many of you would be interested in one if it were priced at around $200, shipped anywhere in the lower 48?
Or, $350 - complete with your choice of a 6 or 8 rib idler and all stainless hardware?
303 Stainless Steel Material Notes:
*303 Stainless WILL NOT rust!
*303 Stainless has far superior strength compared to aluminum.
*Aside from popular belief, it will be slightly weaker than a carbon steel bracket, such as the one made by "Trutech".
And finally....yes, I am aware of the "Aster" bracket. And NO, I will not make one like his design. In regards to belt-slippage issues, his is about as good as one could hope for (and the $750 price tag certainly reflects it). I'm simply looking to make a better, AND cheaper alternative to the standard J-Bracket.
BUT...The same cannot be said about their crappy aluminum J-Bracket!
So....I'm considering making a run of perfectly fitting "facsimile" J-Brackets, out of Billet 303 Stainless Steel to put up on here to sell.
The reason I say "facsimile" is because there will be a few thousandths difference between theirs and mine - and mine will be superior in parallelism and location tolerances. I also plan to put in a metric, or fine pitch standard thread for the tensioner bolt to prevent stripping.
I'm just getting a feeler for the market on here, so no obligations, and I'm not taking orders yet...but, IF I did make these, how many of you would be interested in one if it were priced at around $200, shipped anywhere in the lower 48?
Or, $350 - complete with your choice of a 6 or 8 rib idler and all stainless hardware?
303 Stainless Steel Material Notes:
*303 Stainless WILL NOT rust!
*303 Stainless has far superior strength compared to aluminum.
*Aside from popular belief, it will be slightly weaker than a carbon steel bracket, such as the one made by "Trutech".
And finally....yes, I am aware of the "Aster" bracket. And NO, I will not make one like his design. In regards to belt-slippage issues, his is about as good as one could hope for (and the $750 price tag certainly reflects it). I'm simply looking to make a better, AND cheaper alternative to the standard J-Bracket.
i will not buy one sorry , i have an sdce setup and it has a brace at the bottom of it . But its not worth the extra weight and cost for me .
Just wanted to give you an answer .
Just wanted to give you an answer .
Ramairetransam kind of hit the nail on the head. If you're going to upgrade the j-bracket, you might as well address the biggest issue which is belt slippage. I'm not sure how much of an issue flex is with the aluminum j-bracket. I know Aster made his bracket thicker to address any possible issues.
I agree with these 2 guys ^^^
I also have the SDCE so if I'm upgrading the J bracket it better be superior to what I have. Belt slip is the biggest problems with prochargers so I would recomend adding some kind of tensioner to your stainless design.
I also have the SDCE so if I'm upgrading the J bracket it better be superior to what I have. Belt slip is the biggest problems with prochargers so I would recomend adding some kind of tensioner to your stainless design.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 114
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From: Virginia - Where Rednecks and Presidents Come From
Yes, I admire your ingenuity on that brace! I saw it the first day I searched for J-Brackets. VERY nice job!
The point of my stainless J-Bracket would be a cheaper, yet superior alternative to buying a new aluminum one for $260. It would be a "mid-point" option for flex prevention, and wouldn't be appealing to those of you who already have the braces, asters, and so forth.
The two main reasons the aluminum one causes slippage are:
1. Lateral Flex- (The aluminum being low yield strength, combined with the fact that by design-all of the torsional leverage being is being put on the thinnest, weakest point - the "hook" arm.)
2. Belt Wrap/Surface Contact/Friction Slip- Just a linear screw pushing a single idler pulley down isn't enough...this issue is handled magnificently by the aster.
I may consider adding a 2nd idler to help with both issues...Stainess bracket for rigidity to prevent flex, and the 2nd idler - cantilevered on the belt to help with friction slippage.
The point of my stainless J-Bracket would be a cheaper, yet superior alternative to buying a new aluminum one for $260. It would be a "mid-point" option for flex prevention, and wouldn't be appealing to those of you who already have the braces, asters, and so forth.
The two main reasons the aluminum one causes slippage are:
1. Lateral Flex- (The aluminum being low yield strength, combined with the fact that by design-all of the torsional leverage being is being put on the thinnest, weakest point - the "hook" arm.)
2. Belt Wrap/Surface Contact/Friction Slip- Just a linear screw pushing a single idler pulley down isn't enough...this issue is handled magnificently by the aster.
I may consider adding a 2nd idler to help with both issues...Stainess bracket for rigidity to prevent flex, and the 2nd idler - cantilevered on the belt to help with friction slippage.
If i were you id make it a carbon copy , don't make it thinner or thicker. It will cause problems down the road when someone resells it thinking its a trutech or procharger one. Keep it the same then the same standoffs can be used and keep it as simple as possible.
Also can you weight each one and let us know when you done with it the difference in weight between them .
Also can you weight each one and let us know when you done with it the difference in weight between them .
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Since your a machinist you could do some stainless stand off nuts with this added idler pulley.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...rap-fbody.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...rap-fbody.html
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 114
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From: Virginia - Where Rednecks and Presidents Come From
If i were you id make it a carbon copy , don't make it thinner or thicker. It will cause problems down the road when someone resells it thinking its a trutech or procharger one. Keep it the same then the same standoffs can be used and keep it as simple as possible.
Also can you weight each one and let us know when you done with it the difference in weight between them .
Also can you weight each one and let us know when you done with it the difference in weight between them .
I can do ya one better and tell you before I make it...
303 Stainless Weight differences: Multiply Aluminum x 2.96
Multiply Carbon Steel x 1.02