Dean Goodin's Real Street 275 turbo kit: By Tick Performance
#61
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Thadd....on John's car we found that the biggest and straightest exhaust we could get was best. What size DP are you going to run? I hope it is a 5"! With a 180* bend it will need to be a big radius to not cause ANY type of restriction! I would imagine that is why Martin and those guys did it that way.
Food for thought, next race look at the size of Johns DP.
Food for thought, next race look at the size of Johns DP.
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Thadd....on John's car we found that the biggest and straightest exhaust we could get was best. What size DP are you going to run? I hope it is a 5"! With a 180* bend it will need to be a big radius to not cause ANY type of restriction! I would imagine that is why Martin and those guys did it that way.
Food for thought, next race look at the size of Johns DP.
Food for thought, next race look at the size of Johns DP.
#65
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I think when he made his cut for the compressor outlet, he wasn't thinking about how long the down pipe was going to end up being. I think it will be ok though. I know John's is pretty long as well.
I'm kind of worried now about my downpipe being a restriction on my car though.
It is 5" from the turbo, then has a 90* bend that is 5", but reduces down into 4" y-pipe and goes out the front bumper in front of both front tires.
Here is my kit:
![](http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h344/fbodyjunkie06/myturbokit_zps573eb2ff.jpg)
Thadd....on John's car we found that the biggest and straightest exhaust we could get was best. What size DP are you going to run? I hope it is a 5"! With a 180* bend it will need to be a big radius to not cause ANY type of restriction! I would imagine that is why Martin and those guys did it that way.
Food for thought, next race look at the size of Johns DP.
Food for thought, next race look at the size of Johns DP.
I know John has 6" on his and Paul has 7" on his!
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Ok on the turbo(cold side)does it have to be coated with a temp coating or will normal powder coat work? I know automotive paint will withstand 400 degrees before it blisters and I would assume since you powder coat in an oven at 400 degrees then that should work right?
#72
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Martin I don't think the dual 4" will hurt at all. The only problem I see is the immediate 90* bend off of the turbo. Really the only way to tell is just see what it does. A simple test we have done it see how long it takes to get on the brake and what psi it makes. Then take the pipe off and do it all over with nothing. That will tell you if is it a restriction or not.
#73
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I will say this, I copied John in making my charge piping as short as possible. My thought was the least amount of charge piping I can get from the compressor to the throttle body the least amount of pressure drop I'd encounter.
I have some people telling me though I'm going to suck the "reserve" of the plenum dry from the piping being too short and not enough "reserve". Whatever that means...lol. I guess if it happens I will find out and fix it!
Coincidentally Dean's is the longest and Matt our shop foreman that's building Dean's car is doing his as an in between Dean's and mine length wise. We have the entire spectrum covered hoping to find the best way to go the fastest. Kinda like fishing with 3 fishing poles, you're a lot more likely to catch a fish that way! lol
I have some people telling me though I'm going to suck the "reserve" of the plenum dry from the piping being too short and not enough "reserve". Whatever that means...lol. I guess if it happens I will find out and fix it!
Coincidentally Dean's is the longest and Matt our shop foreman that's building Dean's car is doing his as an in between Dean's and mine length wise. We have the entire spectrum covered hoping to find the best way to go the fastest. Kinda like fishing with 3 fishing poles, you're a lot more likely to catch a fish that way! lol
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Martin arent you doing a hi ram on your car? I saw pics on facebook and the coldside piece is mounted to a regular intake.. cant imagine the hi ram sitting in the same place.
When Matt mounted the turbo, he had planned to notch the frame rail for the compressor outlet to reside in that area and use the frame rail as the mount for the turbo.
I think when he made his cut for the compressor outlet, he wasn't thinking about how long the down pipe was going to end up being. I think it will be ok though. I know John's is pretty long as well.
I'm kind of worried now about my downpipe being a restriction on my car though.
It is 5" from the turbo, then has a 90* bend that is 5", but reduces down into 4" y-pipe and goes out the front bumper in front of both front tires.
Here is my kit:
![](http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h344/fbodyjunkie06/myturbokit_zps573eb2ff.jpg)
What do you think about my down pipe I posted above? Do you think the dual 4" will help more than single 5" or will the reduction from 5"-4" even though it's dual 4" where it reduces hurt me more than single 5" will help me?
I know John has 6" on his and Paul has 7" on his!
I think when he made his cut for the compressor outlet, he wasn't thinking about how long the down pipe was going to end up being. I think it will be ok though. I know John's is pretty long as well.
I'm kind of worried now about my downpipe being a restriction on my car though.
It is 5" from the turbo, then has a 90* bend that is 5", but reduces down into 4" y-pipe and goes out the front bumper in front of both front tires.
Here is my kit:
![](http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h344/fbodyjunkie06/myturbokit_zps573eb2ff.jpg)
What do you think about my down pipe I posted above? Do you think the dual 4" will help more than single 5" or will the reduction from 5"-4" even though it's dual 4" where it reduces hurt me more than single 5" will help me?
I know John has 6" on his and Paul has 7" on his!
#76
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I'm using as many stock parts as I could, but modified them to achieve the performance level of an aftermarket part for less cost. I feel the greatest thing about the LS, is up to 1200hp it's cheaper than every other push rod American V8 engine out there to build. Makes more power every time. Easy to work on is also a huge plus.
I have a truck block, Ai CNC ported LSA castings, using GM valves with the hollow stem LS3 intake and LY6 Inconel exhaust. Stock ls3 intake, but it has a 90mm cable driven throttle body on it so no stock throttle body being used or I would, but none are cable. Motor still has the stock crank in it as well. I also bought the rods used from my boss Jonathan's motor. They are Callies H-beams and he used them for 100-150 passes maybe. I'm going to run them until they can't be run anymore. If Andreas can use them to 1300-1400hp like he did, I can use them for what I want to do. Wiseco forged pistons with coated tool steel pins and it has ARP main and head studs.
Only thing I really spent a lot on was the valve-train and that wasn't even that expensive. Its' not going to rev more than 7200rpm at the most.
Hopefully it makes big power. If not I'm ripping the square port heads off and putting cathedrals back on it lol.
Last edited by Sales@Tick; 08-06-2013 at 10:23 PM.
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Haha same here man! I already had the hi ram thats only reason im using it, stock TB and used eagle H beams with run time and mahle forged flat top pistons that are coated also!
What I did do is sell the T4 setup and huron is building me a T6 hotside like yours![Devil](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_devil.gif)
What I did do is sell the T4 setup and huron is building me a T6 hotside like yours
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Nope. Stock LS3 intake. Might have Cajun@BER port it, maybe not dunno yet. Believe it or not my build is not fancy and it is not expensive. It does not use a bunch of high dollar parts. I took what I thought would work the best as a combination for the amount of money that I had and made it work.
I'm using as many stock parts as I could, but modified them to achieve the performance level of an aftermarket part for less cost. I feel the greatest thing about the LS, is up to 1200hp it's cheaper than every other push rod American V8 engine out there to build. Makes more power every time. Easy to work on is also a huge plus.
I have a truck block, Ai CNC ported LSA castings, using GM valves with the hollow stem LS3 intake and LY6 Inconel exhaust. Stock ls3 intake, but it has a 90mm cable driven throttle body on it so no stock throttle body being used or I would, but none are cable. Motor still has the stock crank in it as well. I also bought the rods used from my boss Jonathan's motor. They are Callies H-beams and he used them for 100-150 passes maybe. I'm going to run them until they can't be run anymore. If Andreas can use them to 1300-1400hp like he did, I can use them for what I want to do. Wiseco forged pistons with coated tool steel pins and it has ARP main and head studs.
Only thing I really spent a lot on was the valve-train and that wasn't even that expensive. Its' not going to rev more than 7200rpm at the most.
Hopefully it makes big power. If not I'm ripping the square port heads off and putting cathedrals back on it lol.
I'm using as many stock parts as I could, but modified them to achieve the performance level of an aftermarket part for less cost. I feel the greatest thing about the LS, is up to 1200hp it's cheaper than every other push rod American V8 engine out there to build. Makes more power every time. Easy to work on is also a huge plus.
I have a truck block, Ai CNC ported LSA castings, using GM valves with the hollow stem LS3 intake and LY6 Inconel exhaust. Stock ls3 intake, but it has a 90mm cable driven throttle body on it so no stock throttle body being used or I would, but none are cable. Motor still has the stock crank in it as well. I also bought the rods used from my boss Jonathan's motor. They are Callies H-beams and he used them for 100-150 passes maybe. I'm going to run them until they can't be run anymore. If Andreas can use them to 1300-1400hp like he did, I can use them for what I want to do. Wiseco forged pistons with coated tool steel pins and it has ARP main and head studs.
Only thing I really spent a lot on was the valve-train and that wasn't even that expensive. Its' not going to rev more than 7200rpm at the most.
Hopefully it makes big power. If not I'm ripping the square port heads off and putting cathedrals back on it lol.
#79
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Jon is a good dude, I just got my kit yesterday. You'll be very happy with the quality. I made mine as simple as possible, but Jon can do just about anything you want!
#80
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I will start one soon when we pull the car in the shop. No point in one right now when all I've got is parts sitting here and no work done on the car.
Jon is a good dude, I just got my kit yesterday. You'll be very happy with the quality. I made mine as simple as possible, but Jon can do just about anything you want!
Jon is a good dude, I just got my kit yesterday. You'll be very happy with the quality. I made mine as simple as possible, but Jon can do just about anything you want!
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