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Battery Relocation..

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Old 07-29-2013 | 08:30 PM
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Default Battery Relocation..

I need a detailed diagram on how to relocate my battery to the hatch area. Im not really going to the track, so a shut off will not be necessary. Also, where is the best place to buy the cable and ends? Ive heard of guys using welding cable, but ive found it to be very expensive. Ill probably use a BMR battery tray. Ive seen the Tick Performance relocation kit, but i feel like i could throw something together for about half the price. Maybe I'm wrong. Thanks!
Old 07-30-2013 | 06:35 PM
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anyone ??
Old 07-30-2013 | 09:00 PM
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I would just get the kit from Tick, maybe they can do one without the kill. For the money though you will have a hard time for such a clean well sorted relocation...
Old 07-31-2013 | 05:42 AM
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Summit sells kits that include the power cable, ground, battery box, and box hold down brackets for a little over a hundred bucks
Old 07-31-2013 | 08:36 AM
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^ i was looking into those. i just can't remembe how everything was routed as far as wiring. i tore all.of my harness out and the one thing i didn't lable was the battery setup. as far battery to alternator, to starter, fuse boxes, grnds.. etc.
Old 08-01-2013 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by TT427
I would just get the kit from Tick, maybe they can do one without the kill. For the money though you will have a hard time for such a clean well sorted relocation...
x2 everything that you need for a forth gen with out the headache of collecting parts.
Old 08-01-2013 | 08:44 PM
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Call Chuck at Burkhart he sells a sweet setup pm me your email I will send u a picture
Old 08-01-2013 | 09:51 PM
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^ PMd

I dont think itll be a headache. i just need a diagram of how the electrical was ran. i cant remember how it was. $230 is ridiculous to me for some pre-cut cable. it doesnt even come with a battery box..
Old 08-02-2013 | 01:44 AM
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Do you think you will EVER go to the track with the car though? Just askin because, unless you have a track that doesnt care about tech inspect at all, they will probably not allow you to run without the battery shut off switch. They are usually really strict on that certain rule. I got turned away for not having one back in the day. It is a relatively inexpensive, and IMO puts a rod through the back of your car that means "I dont fawx around"
Old 08-02-2013 | 06:30 AM
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i will every once in awhile. maybe 3 times a year...maybe. what determines you need the shut off? i really don't wanna go.cutting holes in the body...
Old 08-02-2013 | 07:03 AM
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Its pretty simple, you run 2 cables. (I used #2 weld ground cable) One to the starter (+) and one to the block/starter bolt(-). Both of the same gauge cable.
Then I used one of these and bolted where the battery used to be and left the original + cable there and bolted it to it so I would have a + lug under the hood for service or a popcorm maker or whatever.

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/47213...-87--STUD-RED/

For a disconnect get something like this.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74101
And then take the **** off it and buy an arm/lever for it. Then you dont have to drill a hole through your body, you can mount the switch by the battery and then run a small cable and put the push button by your license plate or wherever, they do this on dragsters, 2 cables instead of 1 though, one for a disconnect inside the car and one on back.



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