MY Real Street 275 build
#1
MY Real Street 275 build
Well the time has finally come. I figured I'd start my build thread now since we finally started working on the car last Friday.
We have a lot of work to do, and no real time frame to finish it in, but I'd really like to have it running by November Draggin' Rights which is a local race we have twice a year that we sponsor along with many of the local shops as well.
I really don't know where to start as this build was done on a necessity basis not "I have to have" this part and that part. Or "let's buy the most expensive parts I can just to show off." No. That's not what this build was about.
All the parts I'm using I did extensive research on and found them to be the best functioning parts that could be used at a reasonable price. Enough of my babbling though, here is a basic run down of the combination and a few pictures of how the car looked when I bought it, after I did some minor modifications to it and how it sits now in it's construction phases.
*Engine:
-6.0 iron block truck engine from a rolled over 2500HD with 160k miles. Block has been "half filled" with block filler halfway to the water pump holes for stability.
-ARP main studs
-Stock main caps
-Stock 3.622" crank
-Callies H-beam forged connecting rods. These rods came out of my boss Jonathan's 427. Again function over "have to have".
-Wiseco forged 4.030" bore pistons. Coated skirts and coated tool steel wrist pins.
-Durabond cam bearings
-ACL "Race" main bearings
-Clevite "H" series rod bearings
-ARP L19 head studs
-LS9 .051" thickness gaskets
*Induction:
-Edelbrock Victor L92 intake
-Edelbrock elbow
-1.75" wilson carb spacer
-Advanced Induction CNC ported LSA cylinder heads. 370cfm+/270cfm+@.650" valve lift. Stock LS3 hollow stem intake valves. Manley Stainless exhaust valves.
-Fast 92mm cable driven throttle body
*Valve-train:
-Custom Tick Performance Turbo Camshaft???
-Morel 5274 .750" wheel lifters
-Comp Cams 3/8" .080" wall push rods
-GM LS3 off set intake rockers, GM LS1 exhaust rockers. I will be having these rocker arms REM polished and wipe pattern will be checked thoroughly. I'm testing the waters here with the amount of lift this camshaft has. We will see how it fares in terms of reliability and longevity as I know it will make the power I need even with it's relatively small durations for a "race" motor.
-Comp Cams trunion upgrade
-PAC 1207X valve springs
*Trans:
-Cooks Transmission's Power glide 1.69 aftermarket planetary
-PTC 9.5" converter specified by Dusty Bradford
-Trans cooler TBD on brand and size. I was going to use my old trans cooler, but it is a tube and fin design and doesn't have -AN fitting provisions and the lines were just hose clamped on. Not very safe, but it worked. That will be replaced by screw in -AN fittings instead.
-Hurst Pistol Grip "Quarter Stick" shifter
*Suspension:
-Chromoly PA racing tubular K-member
-Stock upper and lower A-arms
-Menscer motorsports custom valved Afco double adjustable shocks.
-275# front coil over springs
-150# rear coil over springs
-Custom Chromoly sub-frame connectors
-Madman Chromoly adj. torque arm
-Madman Chromoly offset lower control arms
-Custom edelbrock panhard bar
-Custom Chromoly ARB
-Strange drag brakes all the way around
-ARP 1/2" wheel studs
-Strange 12 bolt rear end with 4.10 gears, spool and billet pinion yoke
-Custom drive shaft
-Rear 15x10" Holeshot Revolver wheels with M/T 275/60 3754X tires
-Front 15x3.5" Holeshot Revolver wheels with 27x4" Hoosier Bias Ply
*Fuel:
-Fuel Injector Connection 1600cc Bosch Injectors
-Squash Performance dual pump in-tank fuel system with (2) 450lph "Fat Bottom Walboro pumps" 1600hp capable FI gasoline
-Feed line is -10
-Return line -8
-Turbosmart FPR-2000 fuel pressure regulator has -10 inlets and -8 outlet
-Edelbrock billet fuel rails
-C16
*Turbo Kit:
-Tick Performance Custom T6 turbo kit
-5" downpipe
-2.5" cross over piping divided all the way to the flange
-2x Turbosmart 40mm waste gates
-Turbosmart Race Port BOV
-Forced Inductions ETR-HO S476R billet compressor wheel T6 flange 1.32 AR 96mm turbine wheel unit with race cover
-Tick Performance custom fabricated 2350cfm Bell Intercooler 20" L x 8" H x 6" W core.
*Electric/Other:
-Leash Electronics Billet Aluminum sportsman 8 relay board
-Trick Cable and Switch panel mounted in ABS plastic in HVAC/Stereo locations
-Autometer Gauges in fabricated aluminum gauge cluster
-Afco Radiator
-Fast XFI 2.0 Electronic Fuel Management, Intelligent Traction Control, Boost control, G-meter, Driveshaft speed and more
-AEI Inc. Motor plate with custom engraving
-MightyMouse Solutions Catch can with boost relief valve and -16 fitting
-Polished aluminum valve covers(hope they don't leak)
I'm sure there is a ton more that I am leaving out, but for now here are a few pictures of the work we've completed so far and of the parts I have.
The only things that really need to be done at this point is finish assembling the long block, wiring of the electronics and finish the fab work. Then it will be down to getting the trans built, getting the car tuned and working out the bugs!
Feel free to ask any questions you may have! I want this to be a learning experience for myself and anyone who wishes to follow this thread. All I ask is PLEASE do not make any derogatory comments, any personal attacks and keep any "flame wars" from developing. I want this to be an informative thread that members can learn from and possibly try things themselves that worked for me during this build and once the car is running.
Thanks!
We have a lot of work to do, and no real time frame to finish it in, but I'd really like to have it running by November Draggin' Rights which is a local race we have twice a year that we sponsor along with many of the local shops as well.
I really don't know where to start as this build was done on a necessity basis not "I have to have" this part and that part. Or "let's buy the most expensive parts I can just to show off." No. That's not what this build was about.
All the parts I'm using I did extensive research on and found them to be the best functioning parts that could be used at a reasonable price. Enough of my babbling though, here is a basic run down of the combination and a few pictures of how the car looked when I bought it, after I did some minor modifications to it and how it sits now in it's construction phases.
*Engine:
-6.0 iron block truck engine from a rolled over 2500HD with 160k miles. Block has been "half filled" with block filler halfway to the water pump holes for stability.
-ARP main studs
-Stock main caps
-Stock 3.622" crank
-Callies H-beam forged connecting rods. These rods came out of my boss Jonathan's 427. Again function over "have to have".
-Wiseco forged 4.030" bore pistons. Coated skirts and coated tool steel wrist pins.
-Durabond cam bearings
-ACL "Race" main bearings
-Clevite "H" series rod bearings
-ARP L19 head studs
-LS9 .051" thickness gaskets
*Induction:
-Edelbrock Victor L92 intake
-Edelbrock elbow
-1.75" wilson carb spacer
-Advanced Induction CNC ported LSA cylinder heads. 370cfm+/270cfm+@.650" valve lift. Stock LS3 hollow stem intake valves. Manley Stainless exhaust valves.
-Fast 92mm cable driven throttle body
*Valve-train:
-Custom Tick Performance Turbo Camshaft???
-Morel 5274 .750" wheel lifters
-Comp Cams 3/8" .080" wall push rods
-GM LS3 off set intake rockers, GM LS1 exhaust rockers. I will be having these rocker arms REM polished and wipe pattern will be checked thoroughly. I'm testing the waters here with the amount of lift this camshaft has. We will see how it fares in terms of reliability and longevity as I know it will make the power I need even with it's relatively small durations for a "race" motor.
-Comp Cams trunion upgrade
-PAC 1207X valve springs
*Trans:
-Cooks Transmission's Power glide 1.69 aftermarket planetary
-PTC 9.5" converter specified by Dusty Bradford
-Trans cooler TBD on brand and size. I was going to use my old trans cooler, but it is a tube and fin design and doesn't have -AN fitting provisions and the lines were just hose clamped on. Not very safe, but it worked. That will be replaced by screw in -AN fittings instead.
-Hurst Pistol Grip "Quarter Stick" shifter
*Suspension:
-Chromoly PA racing tubular K-member
-Stock upper and lower A-arms
-Menscer motorsports custom valved Afco double adjustable shocks.
-275# front coil over springs
-150# rear coil over springs
-Custom Chromoly sub-frame connectors
-Madman Chromoly adj. torque arm
-Madman Chromoly offset lower control arms
-Custom edelbrock panhard bar
-Custom Chromoly ARB
-Strange drag brakes all the way around
-ARP 1/2" wheel studs
-Strange 12 bolt rear end with 4.10 gears, spool and billet pinion yoke
-Custom drive shaft
-Rear 15x10" Holeshot Revolver wheels with M/T 275/60 3754X tires
-Front 15x3.5" Holeshot Revolver wheels with 27x4" Hoosier Bias Ply
*Fuel:
-Fuel Injector Connection 1600cc Bosch Injectors
-Squash Performance dual pump in-tank fuel system with (2) 450lph "Fat Bottom Walboro pumps" 1600hp capable FI gasoline
-Feed line is -10
-Return line -8
-Turbosmart FPR-2000 fuel pressure regulator has -10 inlets and -8 outlet
-Edelbrock billet fuel rails
-C16
*Turbo Kit:
-Tick Performance Custom T6 turbo kit
-5" downpipe
-2.5" cross over piping divided all the way to the flange
-2x Turbosmart 40mm waste gates
-Turbosmart Race Port BOV
-Forced Inductions ETR-HO S476R billet compressor wheel T6 flange 1.32 AR 96mm turbine wheel unit with race cover
-Tick Performance custom fabricated 2350cfm Bell Intercooler 20" L x 8" H x 6" W core.
*Electric/Other:
-Leash Electronics Billet Aluminum sportsman 8 relay board
-Trick Cable and Switch panel mounted in ABS plastic in HVAC/Stereo locations
-Autometer Gauges in fabricated aluminum gauge cluster
-Afco Radiator
-Fast XFI 2.0 Electronic Fuel Management, Intelligent Traction Control, Boost control, G-meter, Driveshaft speed and more
-AEI Inc. Motor plate with custom engraving
-MightyMouse Solutions Catch can with boost relief valve and -16 fitting
-Polished aluminum valve covers(hope they don't leak)
I'm sure there is a ton more that I am leaving out, but for now here are a few pictures of the work we've completed so far and of the parts I have.
The only things that really need to be done at this point is finish assembling the long block, wiring of the electronics and finish the fab work. Then it will be down to getting the trans built, getting the car tuned and working out the bugs!
Feel free to ask any questions you may have! I want this to be a learning experience for myself and anyone who wishes to follow this thread. All I ask is PLEASE do not make any derogatory comments, any personal attacks and keep any "flame wars" from developing. I want this to be an informative thread that members can learn from and possibly try things themselves that worked for me during this build and once the car is running.
Thanks!
Last edited by Sales@Tick; 08-17-2014 at 06:54 PM.
#2
Here is how the car looked when I got it as a cam only car that was already running in the 6.50's-6.60's pretty consistently. It still holds the #3 spot on the cam only 1/4 mile record@10.28@128mph. It went 6.53 on that pass and I was able to better that to a 6.38@104.5 but never got to run it out the back in the 1/4 mile with that kind of 660' number. It probably could of gone 10.0's.
You can see where the radiator used to sit in this picture:
Video of a 6.45 pass:
After running it cam only and bettering the previous owners best 1/8th mile time by almost 2 tenths by getting the power in sooner and better 60'&330' it was time for some nitrous.
I had the converter tightened up a lot from 6000rpm to 4400rpm and it dropped my N/A times to 7.0-7.20's from 6.30's, but on a 250 shot I was able to go 6.10@113. My best MPH on the 250 shot was 116.5 after working a few bugs out, but I could never get it to hook with that much power, the TH400 and 4.10 rear was just too much starting line ratio.
Here was my best pass ever on nitrous:
There was more in the car, but I wanted to go back to a turbo set-up so I sold the cam only motor and all my nitrous stuff and nitrous converter and put it towards the parts for this build.
This build would of never happened without the help of John@Huron Speed and a lot of other people in this industry including my Boss Jonathan Atkins and our Shop Foreman Matt Goings. They are the guys "behind the scenes" that you never hear about at Tick Performance. These are the guys that make it happen, not me.
I wish I had the time to build this car myself from the ground up, but I don't. I am not a mechanic either. The guys that work here at our shop are the best in the business when it comes to turning wrenches and that's what they are good at. I will be assembling the long block with Jonathan's help, assembling the valve train(of course! ) and helping where ever I can during assembly.
Here are some pictures of what we have done so far and parts pictures I have gathered for the past 6-8 months.
Motor plate I had made by Bob@AEI:
Valve covers I'll be using:
S476R before coating:
Before porting:
You can see where the radiator used to sit in this picture:
Video of a 6.45 pass:
After running it cam only and bettering the previous owners best 1/8th mile time by almost 2 tenths by getting the power in sooner and better 60'&330' it was time for some nitrous.
I had the converter tightened up a lot from 6000rpm to 4400rpm and it dropped my N/A times to 7.0-7.20's from 6.30's, but on a 250 shot I was able to go 6.10@113. My best MPH on the 250 shot was 116.5 after working a few bugs out, but I could never get it to hook with that much power, the TH400 and 4.10 rear was just too much starting line ratio.
Here was my best pass ever on nitrous:
There was more in the car, but I wanted to go back to a turbo set-up so I sold the cam only motor and all my nitrous stuff and nitrous converter and put it towards the parts for this build.
This build would of never happened without the help of John@Huron Speed and a lot of other people in this industry including my Boss Jonathan Atkins and our Shop Foreman Matt Goings. They are the guys "behind the scenes" that you never hear about at Tick Performance. These are the guys that make it happen, not me.
I wish I had the time to build this car myself from the ground up, but I don't. I am not a mechanic either. The guys that work here at our shop are the best in the business when it comes to turning wrenches and that's what they are good at. I will be assembling the long block with Jonathan's help, assembling the valve train(of course! ) and helping where ever I can during assembly.
Here are some pictures of what we have done so far and parts pictures I have gathered for the past 6-8 months.
Motor plate I had made by Bob@AEI:
Valve covers I'll be using:
S476R before coating:
Before porting:
Last edited by Sales@Tick; 08-20-2013 at 02:33 PM.
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#9
It seems to be putting up some astronomical numbers. Even though I'm using the cast wheel version, it should still fly.
Well guys, this build just took a turn for the extreme today. While our shop foreman Matt Goings was pulling wiring out of the car today, as he noted "I could take a 5 gallon bucket and fill it full of zip-ties with the amount of zip tied wiring in this car!" Sorry Matt!
So, he decided to rip it out. All of it...and the dash...and the interior...and my HVAC patch panel...and my carpet. It's amazing how quickly these kinds of builds turn into craziness.
That's not all though. Instead of holding off on doing the roll cage update to a 8.50 certified cage over the winter and just running the local 8th mile tracks that don't care about me having a 6 point...we've decided to do a 25.5 cage certified to 7.50 in the 1/4 mile. This will allow me to compete in races that I would of not been able to compete in before. Such as the LSX shootout and the LSX Challenge Series.
We will also be fabricating a parachute mount as well.
We just ordered the 25' of 1x5/8" chromoly tubing needed to complete the 25.5 cage and update my puny 6 point into a funny car cage.
We will also be taking the factory gauge panel out and fabricating a nice piece of ABS plastic to mount Autometer Ultra Lite gauges in along with my 5" tach and shift light.
The car is very dirty and rough right now as it's been sitting outside for over 8 months, but we will get it back to better than ever before long.
Here is what we accomplished today and some more parts pictures I took:
Last edited by Sales@Tick; 08-20-2013 at 02:34 PM.
#18
That sounds good to me. The customer I'm going to help is suppose to have his motor back soon so hopefully we'll make it!
The 6 point is already chromoly and will be staying in the car. I was going to ask Matt to cut the door bars out completely though and re-do them so it's much easier for me to get in the car. I'm 6'2 240 pounds and it's hard to get in and out of that damn car the way it is now. Guess I should just lose some weight lol.
No sir! It won't be ready and I don't have a 1/4 mile set-up really, but I do want to try to put a different gear in it and run maybe some of the races. We'll see. They don't allow methanol injection, and if I stay non-intercooled I'm going to be relying on it heavily.
Yes it has!
Thanks man, I'm actually kind of embarrassed looking at how rough it is from sitting, but I asked Matt if he could hit a lot of the rust with a wire wheel and clean it up and re-paint it and he said he could so that should get it looking better there. A-arms unfortunately are staying though for now at least until the winter. All the silver tubing up front will be wire wheeled and then re-painted along with the cage so it should end up looking really good.
I am thinking about sending the hood over to the body shop next to our shop and getting it painted along with the front bumper as well.