slowbu

iTrader: (4)

As much room as there is in a second gen u should have no problem with hood clearance with one mounted off to the side

silent_soul

iTrader: (2)

Well ive been considering it ill be honest, its just hard as everything I read was saying it not only hinders performance but in no way helps any kind of performance in the long run and only costs more. I think it would be even more of a cool factor if it worked but also mirrored eachother instead of looking like I have 2 identical s/c's but one meant for each side. I dont know if that makes sense. Ill definently look at that car though.

EDIT:
Those old martins look pretty cool lol, seriously that'd be one cool beater or d/d

On the second gen easy day, however the more I look at it I might slap a m122 on my daily driver camaro. just glass a hump on it to cover it and pick up a junk hood. Nothing like junkyard cool for under 1500(hopefully) netting possibly into the 200rwhp range. Im sitting around 330rwhp, could easily gain 20-40rwhp after a proper tune for my setup. Slap a cool 8-10psi on it hmmmmmm

slowbu

iTrader: (4)

If u move the coils u may can get the blower low enough to clear the hood or Run a small cowl hood, an for the pulley setup I've looked at using the zr1/lsa balancer an water pump to gain room

silent_soul

iTrader: (2)

My car used to have a P1SC and still has the correct crank pulley I suppose I could measure things alittle and see how it sits. I will admit though I think to line up the sc pulley id have to cut my cowl alittle.....not a big deal in my book but im sure that scares others lol

slowbu

iTrader: (4)

Yea may have to cut a little bit

silent_soul

iTrader: (2)

Looking at it in all honesty the only cutting would be into the rain collection and drainage system. Of course easy to modify and allow proper rain runoff and a pony s/c on my bowtie.....thinking some sort of bowtie cartoon with a horse in shackles would fit nicely into this potential build.

LS1-IROC

iTrader: (4)

I give you credit for wanting to be unique, however, remote mounting a PD blower negates 50% of the benefit of using that style blower. In all honestly, you should do some more homework before spending any money. You might try hanging out over on LS1GTO forum for awhile to see what your getting into with PD blowers and to learn a little more about them.

silent_soul

iTrader: (2)

well i havent spent any money yet. I posted this up to learn more. How come mounting it remotely negates 50% of the benefit? Seeing as how low mile units go for 400, and ones with 40-50K miles still working can be had for 150-200 bucks that price point is pretty much impossible to beat. BUT if the gains are next to none than a good deal doesnt matter.

edit:
While researching, it seems a pd or roots style blower will out of the box make less power but will be more long term friendly. Also that the longer the tube between the s/c and intake is the more psi/boost will be lost. However im also trying to weigh adding piping to get a intercooler would be worth the gains from the cooler air over the lose of the extra pipe.

I am having a hard time not jumping on a setup on ebay for 200 its got a vmp pulley and comes with a stock elbow no tb but heck for 200 and also having a mild port to it thats a good deal if you ask me. Ontop of that I plan on running a single flap intake as it yields huge gains over the stock dual flap setup. Minimum gains i have read were 30 most was 70(that was insane seeing that much)

silent_soul

iTrader: (2)

To all the silent haters

got some rice with a remote setup
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1997913

pretty indepth build, still reading it but figured some other people might find it fun to look through.

I have looked alot online and there is very very little and almost all of it ends up being unfinished from years ago.

Anyways I really hope I can make this come to fruition, cause 200-800 for a supercharger, ebay intercooler 400, piping 400, fab materials 250, thats roughly 2k for a s/c proven to make up to 500-575RWHP on a similar displacement mustang engine......come on there has to be some interest?

Especially if I happen to find a way to move things in the engine bay around to make it fit under a stock hood(not a huge goal but heck that'd make life alittle easier)

slowbu

iTrader: (4)

How would remote mounting a roots lose 50% of the benefit using it that way?

silent_soul

iTrader: (2)

I read through that honda project entirely and it made up to 14.75 psi now, that is more than I need but what im getting at is he used a smaller less efficient s/c and still got all the boost he could want. I think he did for a time have it up around 18-22psi, so clearly this remote be less efficient isnt really the case. UNless you pipe it retard style, or simply have to run the piping wonking to make it work it really wont be that bad in the end.

I think im gonna relcoat my coils do the engine bay mods this weekend(to tidy it up) then hopefully download a pepakura program and make a model and print it up so I have a next to free life sized unit to start mocking up. HOnestly I think im going to toss one in my car. if need be cut the hood. Fab up a hump maybe paint the hump black and slap on S/C emblems on the sides of the hump. Run around 4-6psi and have fun......for alittle while anyways.

anewconvert

It's a bypass valve. It's designed to allow the blower to free wheel under low load so it isn't constantly making boost. When the throttle opens and vacuum disappears the bypass valve closes and allows the blower to build positive pressure between it and the intake manifold. If you didn't have the bypass valve the blower would always be trying to pressurize the intake manifold, and the engine would have to expend hp cranking the supercharger against the vacuum. With it open the rotors essentially free spin.

silent_soul

iTrader: (2)

Good to know, I will probably have to run a blowoff valve until I figurr out proper pulley sizes unless someone has a guide? I was think if the sc is setup to make 18psi with a 10psi bov it would reach my max psi faster and at lower rpms and speed while not as efficient as some may want I think it would be a fun setup minus thr constant ricer farting sound

EDIT:

Talked to one of the recommended shops locally about tuning the car. They seemed convinced that it wouldnt work. He did admit he would look at it when it was done but didnt make any promises to tune it. So with that said what would be the best option to tune it after all said work was done?

WRXINTX

iTrader: (3)

All these people that have never done it..... Say it won't work...

I got the same answer, so I said "screw it, I am going to try it anyways"

I Injoneered and put a remote mount m122 on my Dad's old 1991 dodge ram 318 with TBI fuel injection.

Having the blower remote mounted blowing into the throttle body causes some extra whining from the blower and recirc-bypass valve , but other than that, it works great.

Non-Intercooled, running 7-8psi depending on the temp and air density


I would think that going to a long open intake tract with the throttle body at the inlet of the supercharger will keep it quieter, but, I don't know how the engine will respond with that much effective additional plenum volume from the tubing/Intercooler/supercharger case and inlet neck... It may be soggy until it hits boost

silent_soul

iTrader: (2)

ya ive kinda taken the hint that until I do it no one will care and only tell me it wont amount to anything. Local tuning shop is iffy about tuning it. Which is the only issue right now. I was thinking that maybe a top mount intercooler ontop the intake would work like the subaru's. Id have a very custom hood going on lol. but honestly I want 4ish psi pushing me into the 450-480rwhp range so I think its doable. I could probably snag a top mount OEM subaru intercooler for cheap too......lulz or of course go the unintercooled route

WRXINTX

iTrader: (3)

You are thinking too hard!

Water injection or a stack plate water to air Intercooler mounted under the supercharger being only 2 inches thick will work great. Look at the Intercoolers for the 3800 supercharged m90's

silent_soul

iTrader: (2)

ill consider that, i wont have much room under it though do to the headers and head. Also I cant really find any that will bolt up to a m122,

It actually wouldnt be too hard to mount the top mount intercooler, I was thinking of canting it with fans on the front/back and put the s/c intake and filter behind the intercooler. Having the fans push/pull air through the intercooler. Have a hood similar to a stock SS but with a larger cowl and opening while also having hood scoops or buldges to accomodate the s/c, just need to think about how to mount the fans while not impeding airflow at speed, and how to get them to shut off around 20mph lol maybe tie them into the radiator fan wiring.

oh and top mount intercooler with intake y pipe.....150-180 bucks, perfect for my needs lol or just use a universal IC like say this ontop the motor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TUBE-AND-FIN-16-5-x-11-x-2-5-TOP-MOUNT-CUSTOM-JDM-ALUMINUM-INTERCOOLER-SCION-/110996879261?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d7edf79d&vxp=mtr
The piping would at longest be maybe 2 feet into IC and 1 foot into intake.......plus a big ole intake hood opening with that IC right behind it would look pretty mean. and as we know looks is half the battle.

slowbu

iTrader: (4)

Lol I've done stated that id but use an a2w about the size of the a2a u found on Ebay

silent_soul

iTrader: (2)

Well most a2w are more expensive, and would complicate the setup alittle. However I dont know how much more efficient it would be over a a2a. There are a2w that are the same price, and alot that are pretty small(which is helpful) I havent ruled it out but im trying to make it as cheap and as easy because ill be honest if I can make this easy(well easy is relative) and cheap id like to market it. Around 6K to play with boost is honestly shameful...in that, that is how much it costs. Honestly most of us pay that and alittle more for our cars.

I was talkin to a buddy while having a few drinks and he asked why I havent just looked at making a intake manifold for the mustang supercharger to mount too.

Well I looked briefly at this option, I dont have the tools or the testing facility to make one. However if anyone has any suggestions on that route im all ears. I have the skill to weld it nicely and leak proof, its just all the variables in how its made effecting how it performs.


I know alot of people are probably rolling their eyes at this whole bit, which I can understand. However my goal is 450-550rwhp for under 2K for the whole setup. Id love to get it down to around 1K with no intercooler or hoodscoop, just mounting brackets and piping and the approx cost of 400 for the s/c. Who wouldnt pick up a junk hood and cut it to be able to bolt on 4-5 psi for 1k? Maybe im just crazy

I was talking to a buddy about the hood issue which most have asked about. Well I find used flat or non ss hoods all day long for 50-80 dollars in decent shape. I figured just making a mold of a fiberglass scoop/cowl that would have the owner cut their hood to allow for the supercharger and potential top mount intercooler to fit would be pretty good. Yes it would have to be "glued" on, but so what. I was also thinking screws that hold it on with a gasket would be cool give it a riveted on feel. idk ill try and draft a couple drawings/sketch's. Still trying to find real answers about twin/dual s/c setup. for looks of course.

anewconvert

If you are worried about room under the blower turn it upside down. Put the outlet towards the hood, meth injection, profit.