Issues with Aster Bracket
Issues with Aster Bracket Anyone else having issues with the aster bracket? I initially installed it wrong but after getting everything back together (rigjt) managed to eat another belt. That was with the shims on the bracket. I bought a gates laser alignment tool and now without any shims everyrhing seems to line up except the the bracket tensioer pulley. I aligned the laser from the crank to the bracket tensioner and its half a rib off approximately (0.0625). I need to shim the tensioner but the proximity to the power steering pulley will not allow, due to the power steering pulley having a slight bugle in the middle. Any advice appreciated...thanks
When I installed mine first I tried using the supplied washers and noticed it was off, I looked close at the pic in the directions and noticed they didn't use any spacers on the alternator so I tried that and it was a lot closer, but still needed 1 washer behind the tensioner to make it straight.
I only have about 500 miles on my setup and seen 6400 a handful of times and so far so good..
I only have about 500 miles on my setup and seen 6400 a handful of times and so far so good..
I saw north of 7200rpm yesterday, and no issues. No belt slip, no tossed belt, no problems....well other than traction and running out of map space... but that's for another thread.
I know what everyone is saying but has anyone put a laser to it? I'm off half a rib up top at the bracket tensioner. I am not using any spacers at all. What about the serpentine belt idler, there's a factory washer that goes behind the pulley did any of you take it off? Its the one that the round stand off goes on. I took it off any put a thin washer hoping it would help but it seems it pushed it to 0ne whole rib. Damn it!!!!
I know what everyone is saying but has anyone put a laser to it? I'm off half a rib up top at the bracket tensioner. I am not using any spacers at all. What about the serpentine belt idler, there's a factory washer that goes behind the pulley did any of you take it off? Its the one that the round stand off goes on. I took it off any put a thin washer hoping it would help but it seems it pushed it to 0ne whole rib. Damn it!!!!
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
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I know what everyone is saying but has anyone put a laser to it? I'm off half a rib up top at the bracket tensioner. I am not using any spacers at all. What about the serpentine belt idler, there's a factory washer that goes behind the pulley did any of you take it off? Its the one that the round stand off goes on. I took it off any put a thin washer hoping it would help but it seems it pushed it to 0ne whole rib. Damn it!!!!
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Verdad Gallardo The stamped tin cap on that main drive idler pulley should be removed from between the round standoff. The round standoff is wide enough to match the bearing race on that main idler pulley and is what will hold it in place with the bracket installed. The 1/8" thick spacers that are sent for use on the hex standoffs are just because some cars need them and others don't. In your case it sounds like you don't need those two pieces.
Another idea would be to flip the bracket tensioner pulley around since it look to go in deeper but the way it is threaded it will not allow. I would just shim that accordingly. Any thoughts?
The tensioner pulley has a shim behind it from the start which is ~.065". This should put the pulley in line with the head unit pulley once the Procharger is mated to the bracket and had the shims behind the head unit pulley. Are you saying the tensioner pulley is .0625" too far towards the front of the car? Is yours not lining up with the head unit pulley, but the head unit pulley lines up with the crank?
The tensioner pulley will not fit on to the tensioner arm backwards, and if it did would put the ribs further forward of the crank pulley given the offset on the pulley.
The tensioner pulley will not fit on to the tensioner arm backwards, and if it did would put the ribs further forward of the crank pulley given the offset on the pulley.
Last edited by Aster; Oct 7, 2013 at 01:28 PM.
With the bracket off and head unit attached to the bracket. The tensioner aligns rib for rib with the head unit ribs. With the bracket on the block no shims and head unit attached, head unit aligns with crank and crank aligns with head unit. Now when it comes to crank to tensioner it does not align by a half rib. Tensioner to crank 1full rib. Ill try to post pics.
Something seems strange with this. The difference should not be different depending on which pulley you do the measurement from. It should have the same offset regardless. Also, which direction is it off?
Is the spacer still installed between the tensioner pulley and the tensioner arm?
Is the spacer still installed between the tensioner pulley and the tensioner arm?
Edit after spending some more time looking at it it looks like the tensioner pulley is too far towards the front from the bracket/front of the car. Am I seeing that right?
Still makes me wonder how it got two different gaps measuring tensioner to crank compared to crank to tensioner.
I am also still curious about that shim that should be behind the tensioner pulley.
Still makes me wonder how it got two different gaps measuring tensioner to crank compared to crank to tensioner.
I am also still curious about that shim that should be behind the tensioner pulley.
Thinking about this some more I think there is an issue more that the bracket is not square on your block. I have an idea on what is going on here and would like to talk to you about it. I'll PM you my number.
