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Issues with Aster Bracket

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Old 10-06-2013, 02:50 PM
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Default Issues with Aster Bracket

Anyone else having issues with the aster bracket? I initially installed it wrong but after getting everything back together (rigjt) managed to eat another belt. That was with the shims on the bracket. I bought a gates laser alignment tool and now without any shims everyrhing seems to line up except the the bracket tensioer pulley. I aligned the laser from the crank to the bracket tensioner and its half a rib off approximately (0.0625). I need to shim the tensioner but the proximity to the power steering pulley will not allow, due to the power steering pulley having a slight bugle in the middle. Any advice appreciated...thanks
Old 10-06-2013, 04:40 PM
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Post a picture. I didn't have any issues at all, and have a fair bit of high rpm blasts with mine with the original belt on it.
Old 10-06-2013, 04:59 PM
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Couple pictures would help. I had to play around with the shims a little bit to get everything in line but it does work.
Old 10-06-2013, 05:56 PM
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When I installed mine first I tried using the supplied washers and noticed it was off, I looked close at the pic in the directions and noticed they didn't use any spacers on the alternator so I tried that and it was a lot closer, but still needed 1 washer behind the tensioner to make it straight.

I only have about 500 miles on my setup and seen 6400 a handful of times and so far so good..
Old 10-06-2013, 07:52 PM
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I saw north of 7200rpm yesterday, and no issues. No belt slip, no tossed belt, no problems....well other than traction and running out of map space... but that's for another thread.
Old 10-06-2013, 08:37 PM
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I know what everyone is saying but has anyone put a laser to it? I'm off half a rib up top at the bracket tensioner. I am not using any spacers at all. What about the serpentine belt idler, there's a factory washer that goes behind the pulley did any of you take it off? Its the one that the round stand off goes on. I took it off any put a thin washer hoping it would help but it seems it pushed it to 0ne whole rib. Damn it!!!!
Old 10-07-2013, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Tirefire
I know what everyone is saying but has anyone put a laser to it? I'm off half a rib up top at the bracket tensioner. I am not using any spacers at all. What about the serpentine belt idler, there's a factory washer that goes behind the pulley did any of you take it off? Its the one that the round stand off goes on. I took it off any put a thin washer hoping it would help but it seems it pushed it to 0ne whole rib. Damn it!!!!
Andy, post some pictures on here. Thanks. Bob
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Tirefire
I know what everyone is saying but has anyone put a laser to it? I'm off half a rib up top at the bracket tensioner. I am not using any spacers at all. What about the serpentine belt idler, there's a factory washer that goes behind the pulley did any of you take it off? Its the one that the round stand off goes on. I took it off any put a thin washer hoping it would help but it seems it pushed it to 0ne whole rib. Damn it!!!!
The stamped tin cap on that main drive idler pulley should be removed from between the round standoff. The round standoff is wide enough to match the bearing race on that main idler pulley and is what will hold it in place with the bracket installed. The 1/8" thick spacers that are sent for use on the hex standoffs are just because some cars need them and others don't. In your case it sounds like you don't need those two pieces.
Old 10-07-2013, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Aster
The stamped tin cap on that main drive idler pulley should be removed from between the round standoff. The round standoff is wide enough to match the bearing race on that main idler pulley and is what will hold it in place with the bracket installed. The 1/8" thick spacers that are sent for use on the hex standoffs are just because some cars need them and others don't. In your case it sounds like you don't need those two pieces.
I did that bud...No matter how you slice it the bracket tensioner pulley is off. If I take off the stamped cap piece off, it is still out of alignment. To the point I had to add washers behind the bracket tensioner pulley, but I still ended up with half a rib off. Ive done every single combination that could be done with this bracket!!!! The tensioner is off!!!!I could try and fix it by adding shims/washers to the back of it but I will make contact with the powersteering pulley. Ive spent a week plating with it and yesterday all day and half a day today. Trust me when I say that I would have found the problem by now if it was as simple as taking off a stamped tin cap, or taking off the shims. There people on here that state they added a shim to the tensioner and fixed it. I dont know if he had a laser but that's one to many with diffrent ways to fix the problem im talking about. Sorry for the soap box but I needed to vent.
Old 10-07-2013, 12:52 PM
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Another idea would be to flip the bracket tensioner pulley around since it look to go in deeper but the way it is threaded it will not allow. I would just shim that accordingly. Any thoughts?
Old 10-07-2013, 01:15 PM
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The tensioner pulley has a shim behind it from the start which is ~.065". This should put the pulley in line with the head unit pulley once the Procharger is mated to the bracket and had the shims behind the head unit pulley. Are you saying the tensioner pulley is .0625" too far towards the front of the car? Is yours not lining up with the head unit pulley, but the head unit pulley lines up with the crank?

The tensioner pulley will not fit on to the tensioner arm backwards, and if it did would put the ribs further forward of the crank pulley given the offset on the pulley.

Last edited by Aster; 10-07-2013 at 01:28 PM.
Old 10-07-2013, 01:22 PM
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With the bracket off and head unit attached to the bracket. The tensioner aligns rib for rib with the head unit ribs. With the bracket on the block no shims and head unit attached, head unit aligns with crank and crank aligns with head unit. Now when it comes to crank to tensioner it does not align by a half rib. Tensioner to crank 1full rib. Ill try to post pics.
Old 10-07-2013, 01:29 PM
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/63615263@N02/10141734285/
Tensioner pulley to crank 1 rib off..

Last edited by Tirefire; 10-07-2013 at 01:40 PM.
Old 10-07-2013, 01:33 PM
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/63615263@N02/10141675294/
Crank to tensioner pulley 1/2 a rib off.

Last edited by Tirefire; 10-07-2013 at 01:40 PM.
Old 10-07-2013, 01:39 PM
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/63615263@N02/10141874886/
To close for comfort. Tensioner pulley right up on the power steering pulley
Old 10-07-2013, 01:50 PM
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/63615263@N02/10142546053/
Crank to head unit pulley dead on..
Old 10-07-2013, 01:53 PM
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/63615263@N02/10142567443/
Head unit to crank dead on..
Old 10-07-2013, 02:05 PM
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Something seems strange with this. The difference should not be different depending on which pulley you do the measurement from. It should have the same offset regardless. Also, which direction is it off?

Is the spacer still installed between the tensioner pulley and the tensioner arm?
Old 10-07-2013, 02:12 PM
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Edit after spending some more time looking at it it looks like the tensioner pulley is too far towards the front from the bracket/front of the car. Am I seeing that right?

Still makes me wonder how it got two different gaps measuring tensioner to crank compared to crank to tensioner.

I am also still curious about that shim that should be behind the tensioner pulley.
Old 10-07-2013, 02:46 PM
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Thinking about this some more I think there is an issue more that the bracket is not square on your block. I have an idea on what is going on here and would like to talk to you about it. I'll PM you my number.


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