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Fast 102 VS single plane for boost?

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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 6togo
I understand now
is the 4150 TB with a hat a better setup then a elbow and 102mm TB?

you will get a variety of responses on this one...
both work well...
but in general its better to use a 4150 as you can get the air straighter before it goes into the cylinders..

both perform well...its really going to depend on how your setup is set up and how much room you have under your hood...
if you dont want a big cowl hood, then a 102 with a low profile elbow might be a better option for you
if you dont have any issues with the height of the intake/TB/Hat... then its usually better to go this route.
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 06:32 PM
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Yea i plan on using the factory hood (Buick GN) which dont give much leadway. I think which ever route i take neither would work better than the other due to the height looks like the 4150 works best the higher you get it. I'm just going to pick up a single plane intake for now then once i sit the engine in figure out what goes on top!
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 09:48 AM
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I'd put money on a stock style intake delivering better distribution than a single plane with a tight *** elbow
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc
I'd put money on a stock style intake delivering better distribution than a single plane with a tight *** elbow
I honestly think it'd be about the same at high hp levels.

Carb hat and a 4150 is the way to do it.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 10:58 AM
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I think air being pushed by the FI makes a big difference vs NA but if you look at stock intakes fast also the air has to travel further and make some hard turns too.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 11:08 AM
  #46  
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Under boost, runner length and intake pulse doesnt matter. My car makes 10 psi by 3700 rpm. No lack of power under the curve over the fast.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by fotoboy
Under boost, runner length and intake pulse doesnt matter. My car makes 10 psi by 3700 rpm. No lack of power under the curve over the fast.
it definitely still matters
it will show a different curve under boost as well...

it gets masked greatly by boost pressure as boost is a reference to back pressure not actual flow...
so you have maxed out the flow of something in your setup, which masks the differences you would see if your setup still flowed more and created less overall boost
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 12:16 PM
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Which intake fits under ss hood with minimal modifications.and what tb elbow or hat to go with for boost.i currently have the fast 90 and was curious on what intake I should go with once I get my turbo set up finished.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by wicked z28
Which intake fits under ss hood with minimal modifications.and what tb elbow or hat to go with for boost.i currently have the fast 90 and was curious on what intake I should go with once I get my turbo set up finished.
a vic jr with a tight elbow fits without any changes...but its also the lowest in HP
a vic jr with a regular elbow you have to just take a hair out of the cowl in the center...usually 1/4 to 1/2 inch worth...so you still keep wipers and the weather seal

once you step up to a super victor, you lose the center wiper and you need a cowl hood....some people have figured out how to keep the drivers side wiper...but I couldnt see how when I did mine because its connected to the center first and then goes back to the drivers wiper

then once you add a super victor and a 4150, you start needing a 3" cowl hood...
add spacers and it just goes up from there.

once you get into the wipers....it becomes evident that it looks ugly...so you end up cutting the entire cowl off at that point....or atleast I did..LOL
I then created a new weather strip area and bought some generic weather stripping stuff from the auto parts store.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 12:47 PM
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Atleast i dont have that to deal with just a hood!
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 6togo
Atleast i dont have that to deal with just a hood!
that is definitely one thing I really enjoy about the Mustang Chassis.....
No Cowl to have to work under or deal with.

all I have to deal with is the Hood...LOL
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 01:08 PM
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Mask or not real world setup it won't matter for SOP IMO. Pulse wave as you say is masked but not as important on wot. Car when ever I get in it is seeing boost above 2k. At 2k it's already seeing 2lbs boost so ther is already a pressure in the intake rather than a engine creating a a vacuum drawing air in where the pulse waves are in effect. All I can go is off my experiences and I have had both on car on the same Dyno with same curve to a point under the curve with both setups felling the same IMO other an a lot more hp and tq with the Vic jr. My setup is far from being maxed too

There may also be an additional benefit is running meth it may or may not cool the intake track better with alum over plastic. No testing on that though.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 01:10 PM
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Intake heat transfer is non existant...
its too short of a distance and the air moves too fast to pick up heat there..

metal vs plastic is not a factor in heat at WOT
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 01:28 PM
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Were do you get the tight or reg elbow from?and what sz throttle body for hood clearance as well.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by soundengineer
Intake heat transfer is non existant...
its too short of a distance and the air moves too fast to pick up heat there..

metal vs plastic is not a factor in heat at WOT
What about when not in wot?
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by fotoboy
What about when not in wot?
at idle you might see a very very small amount of heat soak.....
but you have to understand just how fast the air is moving.....
our engines are just a big air pump...and air does not conduct heat very well..

as an example....
Iron has a heat conductivity of approximately a value of 80 joules
Still(non moving) Air at 20*c is approximately 0.023 Joules


this is also the reason why our cool external air does not cool the intake down either.


the typical "heat soaked air" that most people think they are getting from heat transfer...is really just the fact that they are not moving and they draw in hot air from the engine bay instead of cool air that is forced in from outside.

its also the reason why if you move your IAT to the outside of the car, you get a more stable day to day fueling....
no fake sensor heat soak to foul the IAT readings.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by soundengineer
at idle you might see a very very small amount of heat soak.....
but you have to understand just how fast the air is moving.....
our engines are just a big air pump...and air does not conduct heat very well..

as an example....
Iron has a heat conductivity of approximately a value of 80 joules
Still(non moving) Air at 20*c is approximately 0.023 Joules


this is also the reason why our cool external air does not cool the intake down either.


the typical "heat soaked air" that most people think they are getting from heat transfer...is really just the fact that they are not moving and they draw in hot air from the engine bay instead of cool air that is forced in from outside.

its also the reason why if you move your IAT to the outside of the car, you get a more stable day to day fueling....
no fake sensor heat soak to foul the IAT readings.

Moving iat outside the car is not possible w meth.
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