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They said it couldn't be done....

 
Old 01-17-2014, 04:28 PM
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which electric PS pump you going with?
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Old 01-17-2014, 04:45 PM
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Probably the MR2 because its a known setup.
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Old 01-19-2014, 12:58 PM
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you know there are tons of different alternatives out now right? and they are much cheaper than the MR2 pumps
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Old 02-12-2014, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by FrankSS View Post
you know there are tons of different alternatives out now right? and they are much cheaper than the MR2 pumps
Examples?
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Old 02-12-2014, 06:18 PM
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Why go through all this trouble when truck manifolds can be used for a twin setup?
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Old 02-13-2014, 04:06 PM
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Because I wanted to keep my A/C. Truck manifolds keep me from doing that.
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:36 PM
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So you have to completely remove the manifolds to check springs/rockers etc?
Seems like it was a good idea, but too much of a compromise.
After the headers, coil relocation, ps, and cost to mod them you'll be over the cost of the sw headers, and they'll still be thin and Chinese
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Old 02-13-2014, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by sschoeffler View Post
Had to remove the power steering pump and put an electronic pump in. No big deal.
I have a kit that will move your stock pump and clear you header.
http://www.cbrperformanceproducts.co...t_p/lspsrb.htm
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Old 02-14-2014, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by mkvamso View Post
So you have to completely remove the manifolds to check springs/rockers etc?
Seems like it was a good idea, but too much of a compromise.
After the headers, coil relocation, ps, and cost to mod them you'll be over the cost of the sw headers, and they'll still be thin and Chinese
1. Unless you have a solid lift cam, how often do you remove you valve covers?
2. I ordered a power steering pump from a 2008 Saturn Astra. 24k miles. A whopping $98 shipped.
3. The headers are 16gauge, Checked them myself. Guess what, Stainless works uses 16 gauge also. Stainless works uses 304ss...guess what, these headers are also 304ss. I don't care if stainless comes from US, Japan, Germany, China, Mars...Guess what...Its still 304ss.
4. Two reasons I didn't go with stainless works headers.
First off, I wanted to retain my A/C. Their LS1 fbody headers that retain A/C are ugly as ****. There is nothing symmetric about them, the passenger side collector curves to the right real hard while the drivers side comes out straight. I called them, they offered no modifications, however if I wanted to pay a **** load more money I could buy the kit they send you to custom build headers. Not looking at spending $2000+ on headers....
Secondly Don't get me wrong, I love my country, pay my taxes, and support it in any way I can. But when you have a choice to buy the same thing and your choice is $280 for overseas item or $1,080 for the American item...Lets face it, there is a gigantic freaking markup and anyone with a brain would choose the overseas item unless you just have thousands of dollars that you gotta get rid of quick. Now granted this is for the same design, thickness, and stainless steel.

If you want to go out and buy $1100 headers when you can spend 75% less for the same quality and design then by all means, go for it. But don't go busting my ***** because I used common sense and went with a much less expensive unit that still retains the same quality.
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Old 02-15-2014, 12:18 AM
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I personally think it was a pretty original idea, and I will be interested to see your results. Hell at least you did something different, and not the same ole thread we always see: "Going truck manifold front mount... what turbo?" lol
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Old 02-15-2014, 11:06 AM
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I had planned on doing this as well a while back but instead of cutting the flanges I was going to cut the shock towers a bit.

I would like to see how you setup the AC..

Good job btw.
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Old 02-15-2014, 11:13 AM
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I dont think there is going to be anything different with how the A/C is setup. The dryer will be relocated under the front bumper.
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Old 02-15-2014, 02:03 PM
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hey manif it works. cool. u saved a few bucks and learned in the process.if not. oh well, lesson learned.
I re welded on some obx/ebay headers for a guy for one of the jy builds. but its a sbf. the dam motor popped before there was any issue with the headers.he ran for it a year. pretty much ******* the **** out of it any chance he got. lol
its what he wanted and I helped him put it together and welded and fabbed everything back up.
so imo they should work
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Old 11-04-2015, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by sschoeffler View Post
I have $280 in the headers and 120 in welding labor. Show me a set of stainless twin turbo headers for $400
How are these holding up?
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Old 11-04-2015, 11:59 PM
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Old 11-05-2015, 12:38 AM
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Dunno, still replacing other chinese **** I bought with good quality American parts.
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Old 11-05-2015, 02:10 AM
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I cant tell if that sarcastic or not. Really interested to know if they worked out.
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Old 11-05-2015, 11:17 AM
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As far as the headers go, I have still yet to run them. They are able to be welded and it was thick stainless. This is the only piece that is getting kept that was chinese mainly because I spent a lot of money getting them to fit right. I'm still not sure they will work. They ride about an inch above the factory valve covers.
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Old 11-05-2015, 11:18 AM
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Also power steering has to be dropped an inch as the pulley makes contact with the header collector.
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Old 11-05-2015, 11:29 AM
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I know you said truck mani's won't work but it did for me just upside down instead of swapping sides Name:  D04DA021-2B20-44D8-80FA-2159902A5A30_zpsj7vowk6z.jpg
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Size:  281.0 KBName:  87F20054-7816-4D87-AF46-8880B6F0BC2F_zpsq1sw5klz.jpg
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Size:  365.4 KB And they hold the heat a little better than headers I think.
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