Hello guys Im sorry if this post is in the wrong spot been along time since i used this.
i will be starting a turbo build in the next month or so for a 2001 ws6 and wanted to make sure that i have thought about everything and to also get some insight about any problems that i might run into. Experience wins eveytime.
ill start with a list of everything on the car now and numbers followed by the turbo build list

as of now the car is making 450rwhp and 475ft
SNS CAM 235/243 .620/623 ON 111
102 FAST INTAKE
NW 102 TB
3 ANGLE ON 243s WITH COMP VALVE SPRINGS AND 2MM LARGER VALVES
HIGH PRESSURE OIL PUMP
75 SHOT
255 WALBRO FUEL PUMP
LONG TUBES
3.90 GEARS

TURBO BUILD
FTP KIT
76MM TURBONETICS TURBO
BOOST CONTROLLOR ? NEED HELP

ROCKERS
CRANE GOLD QUICK LIFT
TERRA YELLOW

NASTY PERFORMANCE ST 3 LINE KIT
( WORTH THE MONEY?)

INJECTIORS
FAST 60LBS

ARP HEAD STUDS

LS9 HEAD GASKETS

TICK T56 REBUILD KIT

CLUTCH
SPEC ST 3
SPEC ST 3 +
MCLEOD RDT "STREET TWIN"
MONSTAR LSX 11" CERAMIC RACE PACK WITH BILLET FLYWHEEL

REAREND

12 BOLT STRANGE 2.5 NARROW
MOSER 9 2.5 NARROW
( ANY INFO ON RUNNIGN A NARROWED REAR END WOULD BE AWESOME)

SWAY ARM BAR

LCA

QA1 FRONT COIL OVERS

 

What are your goals, etc? Some of that N/A stuff won't work very well on your turbo build.

 

I'll be going with 80's on my setup and I'm still stock bottom end. You could go bigger on the injecters since your doing the entire fuel system.

 

my goal is to make as much horsepwer on the stock bottom end without blowing it all to hell ive heard of guys running 10lbs with a 76mm making 720rwhp they were meth and 317heads i think
i know my cam is not going to like boost but its gotta hang tight for a lil while
i wanna know if my 255 walbro is gonna be able to keep up


Heavy - how much bigger would be enough i thought 60s would be plenty

 

Come on guys
need your in put here Im trying to start buying some of this stuff this weekend

I m just unsure about my fuel pump and few other things
all info is appreciated

 

You'll need 2 walbros to handle 750hp

Keep the stock rockers

Talk to Martin @ tick about a cam down the road

Read the suspension forum on setting up your car for whatever driving style you prefer

Start a for sale ad in the classifieds and get rid of the long tubes, nitrous kit, etc...

And start looking in the tuning section and game plan that...

Read read read till your gf/wife complains that your neglecting her, that's what turbo builds do to a family!

 

What clutch would you suggest
and thanks for the help

 

I would pm tick performance and let them set you up according to your budget..

Or search 6 speed turbo builds and see what people are using to hold down 600+ hp and buy that

 

good deal man
ive read and read until my eyes started to bleed lol
ive pretty much came up with what im gonna do just needed a little advice to comfort myself if you will lol.
thanks for help

 

Get 2 fuel pumps, run pump gas+meth or E85, 80lb injectors should have you covered depending on what fuel you choose. Get a twin disc clutch, monster or mcleod. keep the stock rockers.

if you are keeping your heads, run E85.

 

Your limiting factor on the engine (assuming all supporting mods) is always going to be your rods (stock shortblock). Do you homework and look to see where the limits are for your rods. You will see a wide range of what people did, some alot more than others, but you will get a consensus. I would put 650whp a rice safe area as long as you have a decent tune. The 2001 LQ4 I had was god to 740whp when it bent 4 rods, still ran just slowed up.

 

i already have a 255 walbro should another 255 be enough and i will be running meth but with 93 i live in VA and e85 nots here yet Id ready like to find a set of 6.0 heads i think they are 317s

Iam also scared to run the stock rockers bc of the needle bearings or am i just over thinking this

 

TICKshift "Build Your Own" T56 Rebuild Parts-Only Kit for 1993-02 Camaro & Firebird T56 Transmissions
RRP: $508.77
$834.96 (You save ) SKU:SCT56RPK
Vendor:
Brand:TICKshift
Condition:
Weight:
Rating:
Availability:Call for Current Availability
Shipping:
Minimum Purchase:unit(s)
Maximum Purchase:unit(s)
:
Gift Wrapping:

* 5-6 & Reverse Fork Pads:
-- Please Choose an Option -- Leave As-Is Upgrade to Bronze (+$53.98)
* Include 1&2 Inner Cones:
-- Please Choose an Option -- No Yes (+$37.98)
* Include Snap Ring Kit:
-- Please Choose an Option -- No Yes (+$19.99)
Include 1st/2nd Synchronizer Assembly:
-- None -- No Yes (+$139.99)
Include 3rd/4th Synchronizer Assembly:
-- None -- No Yes (+$109.99)
Include 5th/6th Synchronizer Assembly:
-- None -- No Yes (+$99.99)
Include Reverse Synchronizer Assembly:
-- None -- No Yes (+$99.99)
Include Isolator Cup:
-- None -- No Yes, OEM (+$8.99) Yes, Bronze (+$21.99)
Include Premium Bearing Kit:
-- None -- No Yes (+$169.99)
Include 3rd/4th Steel Shift Fork:
-- None -- No Yes (+$49.99)
Include Viper-Style 2nd Gear:
-- None -- No Yes (+$184.99)
Upgrade to Viper Mainshaft:
-- None -- No Yes (+$749.99)
Include Permatex Silicone:
-- None -- No Yes (+$11.99)
Quantity:
Buy in bulk and save



Product Description
After years of selling our wildly popular "Stage 2" T56 Rebuild Parts-Only Kit, one thing became increasingly apparent: people want different things during their rebuild! Our goal with this brand new TICKshift "Build Your Own" T56 Rebuild Parts-Only Kit for 1994-02 Camaro & Firebird (LT1 or LS1) is simple: sell the BASIC items you'll need as part of a discounted package, and then give customers plenty of options to add/upgrade parts during checkout, this way you end up paying for ONLY the parts YOU need. Of course we'd rather you send us your transmission in for us to work our magic on, but if you're sure you just want the parts only, this rebuild kit is rated at 450ft/lbs (rear wheel) and includes the following items:

•TICKshift Bronze 1-4 Fork Pads
•OEM 5-6 & Reverse Fork Pads
•TICKshift 3rd/4th Billet Keys & Springs
•OEM 1-2, 5-6 & Reverse Keys & Springs
•Tremec Complete Carbon Blocker Ring Set
•Tremec Input Shaft Seal
•Tremec Rear Output Seal & Boot
•Tremec Full Shim Kit

...and as you can see, MANY options that you can include during checkout. We'll walk you through each here:

5-6 & Reverse Fork Pads:
Although we never suggest shifting into 5th, 6th or Reverse aggressively, it is smart to upgrade your fork pads on these gears to Bronze if you plan to do high speed runs on a regular basis.

Include 1&2 Inner Cones:
The inner cones on 1st and 2nd Gear are not normally replaced during a rebuild, but if yours are damaged, you can include them here.

Include Snap Ring Kit:
The Snap Rings are not normally replaced during a rebuild, but if you have one that is damaged, it is smart to replace them all.

Include 1st/2nd Synchronizer Assembly:
If the engagement teeth on your 1st/2nd Synchronizer are well worn, it is smart to replace the entire Assembly rather than reuse it.

Include 3rd/4th Synchronizer Assembly:
If the engagement teeth on your 3rd/4th Synchronizer are well worn, it is smart to replace the entire Assembly rather than reuse it.

Include 5th/6th Synchronizer Assembly:
If the engagement teeth on your 5th/6th Synchronizer are well worn, it is smart to replace the entire Assembly rather than reuse it.

Include Reverse Synchronizer Assembly:
If the engagement teeth on your Reverse Synchronizer are well worn (on both sides), it is smart to replace the entire Assembly rather than reuse it.

Include Isolator Cup:
Make sure to inspect your Isolator Cup (also known as shifter cup bushing) during your rebuild, and if it is worn, either replace it or upgrade it to a Bronze unit.

Include Premium Bearing Kit:
We suggest replacing the bearings as a rule after 120,000 miles, but it is a smart idea no matter the mileage. Replacing the bearings during a rebuild is much cheaper than replacing them individually later on!

Include 3rd/4th Steel Shift Fork:
Every pre-2000 (and some 01-02) Camaro and Firebird T56 Transmission is equipped with an Aluminum Fork that is a known weak point. No matter your power level, it is smart to upgrade to steel during your rebuild.

Include Viper-Style 2nd Gear:
Every pre-2000 Camaro and Firebird T56 Transmission is equipped with an older style 2nd Gear that is a known weak point due to it's shorter engagement teeth. No matter your power level, it is smart to upgrade to the Viper-Style 2nd Gear during your rebuild. NOTE: Will not fit 1993 T56 Transmissions.

Upgrade to Viper Mainshaft:
Includes everything that you need to convert your stock mainshaft over the much stronger Viper unit, including our Custom-length Viper 30-spline Mainshaft, Modified Speedometer Wheel, New Tremec Transmission Extension Housing (Custom-Machined for Viper Mainshaft) with no core charge, Viper-sized Output Shaft Bushing, Viper-sized Output Shaft Seal, and Yoke. This upgrade will increase the torque rating of your transmission to 550ft/lbs (rear wheel.)

Include Permatex Silicone:
For those of you assembling your own transmission, you can include a tube of the same Permatex Silicone that we use during every rebuild here in hous

What do you guys think about this till not sure about the clutch

 

It's has begun wish me luck

 

OK guys need your input
Iam scared the tick stage 3 t56 isn't going to be enough. will someone put my mind to ease please.

Stock bottom end ls1
6.0 heads (worked)
102 FAST intake
102 NW Tb
Snow's meth kit(no E85 from where I live)
Gonna start around 8lbs maybe go to 10 if i can

Fab 9 from MWC is almost paid for/complete

thanks guys

 

You can brake the Tick stage 3 T56 at stock power level (probably not what you wanted to hear) but you can also make it live at 1000hp it comes down to your driving maners.

I have been using Mcleod RXT Street Twin and have nothing but good to say about it.

What gears are you going to be using in your Fab 9 ? if you are gona use 3.90 like you said in post #1 you are run out of gear pretty quick.

I would keep the stock rockers, for pece of mind you could do trunnion upgrade on them.

Talk to Brian Tooley racing or Martin @ tick about a cam.

 

A single walbro 400 will hit your goals with enough fuel injector. 60 lb injectors will probably hinder it a little. 80s should be fine.

 

That's does hurt to hear about the st 3. What tranny did you go with? A st 3 is about the best I can afford right now.

I went with a 3.90 aj at mwc told me the same thing about running out of gear but we only have a 1/8 mile track where I'm from and people around here don't like doing 170 mph pulls so I thought the gear would be ok.

I also went with 80lb injectors but still haven't decided on a fuel system. I've been bugging the hell out of Andy at squash. Which reminds me what did you guys do about your evap.

And everyone I've talked to about my rockers tells me the same thing I don't know why I think they need to be upgraded.

Any ideas on a safe boost number to start with.
I'm very very excited about this build I've done a lot of research but I've found out that you cannot think about everything

And to end here's a little progress

 

That does hurt to hear about the st 3 rebuild. What tranny did you go with?

I did decide to go with 3.90s AJ from MWC help make that decision. The only track around is a 1/8 so we thought it would do ok.

I did decide to go with 80lb injectors but still unsure about the fuel system. I've been bugging AJ at squash with this problem. Which reminds me what did you guys do with your evap.

And I don't know why I think I need to upgrade my rockers. Everyone has told be they would be ok. I was jus til a horror story from my cousin who also has a HCI ws6. He had to clean a bunch of needle bearings out of his head.

I've learned a lot doing this build but still have along way to go thanks for all your input guys

 

More progress. The bird is looking pretty sad right now. Just waiting on parts