Turbo LM7 build
Turbo LM7 build First off, I tried to search a couple of strings but I didn't quite find what I was looking for. Just a few questions:
Is there a sticky or area where somebody can point me that shows what parts are compatible with what?
For example, I bought an 05' LM7 5.3L so can I use any LS intake for my turbo build?
What throttle bodies will work best for my application?
Are there any intakes or throttle bodies to avoid?
I will be running siemens 80lb injectors and a PSI harness. Precision T7675 using truck manifolds.
What is the most economical route for accessory brackets and accessories?
I know these are a lot of questions but I'm just getting into the LS world.
Is there a sticky or area where somebody can point me that shows what parts are compatible with what?
For example, I bought an 05' LM7 5.3L so can I use any LS intake for my turbo build?
What throttle bodies will work best for my application?
Are there any intakes or throttle bodies to avoid?
I will be running siemens 80lb injectors and a PSI harness. Precision T7675 using truck manifolds.
What is the most economical route for accessory brackets and accessories?
I know these are a lot of questions but I'm just getting into the LS world.
Hey bud I will chime in with my very limited knowledge as I am still a rookie here. I too am working on an LM7 turbo build at the moment.
-You can use an LS1 or LS6 intake. The LS1 seems to flow a bit less from my reading but is usually also significantly cheaper than the LS6. If you have the space and can use the truck intake i have read that its worth the effort to try and use it.
-I am using a DBC throttle body with my intake. I couldnt chime in more than that.
-I am using F-body accessory brackets though you could use Vette or even CTS accessories. Typically I found that hunting around for the F-body ones were the cheapest option. Here is a helpful article:http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...e/viewall.html
-You can use an LS1 or LS6 intake. The LS1 seems to flow a bit less from my reading but is usually also significantly cheaper than the LS6. If you have the space and can use the truck intake i have read that its worth the effort to try and use it.
-I am using a DBC throttle body with my intake. I couldnt chime in more than that.
-I am using F-body accessory brackets though you could use Vette or even CTS accessories. Typically I found that hunting around for the F-body ones were the cheapest option. Here is a helpful article:http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...e/viewall.html
Well if you go to a ls1 water pump you can run the ls1/6 intake. If you stay with the truck you have to get spacers. Then just pick up an alt bracket from any vendor or just stay with stock bracket and just dont use ps part.
I will probably switch in an LS1 water pump. I didn't know that was necessary to run the ls1/ls6 intakes, thanks for the heads up. Those are the little details I'm looking for which I can't seem to find.
I wish there was a fitment guide / compatibility guide that kind of stuff or if there is that I could find it.
I'm basically looking for the most economical quality alternator relocation bracket that works best with a turbo build. I know there's not just one answer, but maybe a suggestion from experience.
I wish there was a fitment guide / compatibility guide that kind of stuff or if there is that I could find it.
I'm basically looking for the most economical quality alternator relocation bracket that works best with a turbo build. I know there's not just one answer, but maybe a suggestion from experience.
If you switch to LS1 style intake, you will have to get spacers and waterpump or switch over to f-body set-up. I have like 120 total in a new pump and spacers. Also if you go ls6, you will have to block the rear steam ports or build one your self that will fit beneath the intake, or trim the bottom of the intake.
All cathedral port heads interchange, some are better than others. I believe there is a head sticky on here, if not it doesn't take long to search.
If you are going F.I., just use the factory throttle body. Also the truck intake isn't a bad intake, just ugly as hell. It flows nearly the same as a ls6.
Just to get it up and going I'd change the valve springs and install hardened pushrods, maybe put the Cracked-Rod bolts on and some cheap ebay head studs.
I'm putting a turbo on my cousins 4X4 silverado, we are using an ON3 76mm with .96 ar housing and a 60mm wastegate.
adding 3bar map, 60lb injectors (trucks use ev6, but you can use ev1 by changing pigtails and adding spacers to the fuel rail.) Aem 320lph fuel pump.
We went with the Texas-Speed 224/228 lsa 112 cam-spring-pushrod combo. We chose a tighter lsa for the heavier truck, hopefully to keep some low end torque off boost. We plan to shift around 6000-6400 rpms, or right as the turbo chokes the engine.
Denmah has a thread called commonly bought items, you should check it out and maybe read some of his threads. He is very helpful and doesn't mind explaining things.
All cathedral port heads interchange, some are better than others. I believe there is a head sticky on here, if not it doesn't take long to search.
If you are going F.I., just use the factory throttle body. Also the truck intake isn't a bad intake, just ugly as hell. It flows nearly the same as a ls6.
Just to get it up and going I'd change the valve springs and install hardened pushrods, maybe put the Cracked-Rod bolts on and some cheap ebay head studs.
I'm putting a turbo on my cousins 4X4 silverado, we are using an ON3 76mm with .96 ar housing and a 60mm wastegate.
adding 3bar map, 60lb injectors (trucks use ev6, but you can use ev1 by changing pigtails and adding spacers to the fuel rail.) Aem 320lph fuel pump.
We went with the Texas-Speed 224/228 lsa 112 cam-spring-pushrod combo. We chose a tighter lsa for the heavier truck, hopefully to keep some low end torque off boost. We plan to shift around 6000-6400 rpms, or right as the turbo chokes the engine.
Denmah has a thread called commonly bought items, you should check it out and maybe read some of his threads. He is very helpful and doesn't mind explaining things.
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First I’d find out what engine you actually have. Don’t’ think they made LM7’s I n 2005, but that’s right at the edge of the gen3 to gen4 change over. 2005+ should be a gen4 motor. They have all kinds of annoying additions to work around that the gen3 (LM7) did not.
Check the color of your crank sensor (by starter). If it’s brown/black you have a gen3 motor with a 24t crank and single tooth 3 bolt cam. If it’s grey you’ve got a newer gen4 motor with 58t crank reluctor wheel and most likely a single bolt 4 tooth cam gear. Lots of the new 5.3’s came with the DOD (drive on demand) system as well that shuts off 4 cyls. All that junk needs to be removed. New lifters, new valley cover, 3 bolt cam conversion etc.
The truck intakes are the best OE intakes out there. If you have the room, run it with the truck accessories and pan. If not, find used F-body accessories,w/pump, intake,pan, brackets etc. It’s the cheapest route IMO.
Check the color of your crank sensor (by starter). If it’s brown/black you have a gen3 motor with a 24t crank and single tooth 3 bolt cam. If it’s grey you’ve got a newer gen4 motor with 58t crank reluctor wheel and most likely a single bolt 4 tooth cam gear. Lots of the new 5.3’s came with the DOD (drive on demand) system as well that shuts off 4 cyls. All that junk needs to be removed. New lifters, new valley cover, 3 bolt cam conversion etc.
The truck intakes are the best OE intakes out there. If you have the room, run it with the truck accessories and pan. If not, find used F-body accessories,w/pump, intake,pan, brackets etc. It’s the cheapest route IMO.
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Verdad Gallardo Thanks Forcefed I'll check all of that out tonight. I have the vin from the truck the motor was pulled. It's definitely an 05' 5.3 and the engine code was "T" and online that referenced an LM7. I guess I'll find out when I pull the oil pan because I also want to verify the beefier rods.
It'll be frustrating if it's a sing bolt cam because I have a full kit from Texas speed with 220R cam, valvesprings and hardened pushrods.
I don't have the room for the truck intake and I really like the cleaner look of the LS1 intake so I figured that's the best economical route.
It'll be frustrating if it's a sing bolt cam because I have a full kit from Texas speed with 220R cam, valvesprings and hardened pushrods.
I don't have the room for the truck intake and I really like the cleaner look of the LS1 intake so I figured that's the best economical route.
Thanks Forcefed I'll check all of that out tonight. I have the vin from the truck the motor was pulled. It's definitely an 05' 5.3 and the engine code was "T" and online that referenced an LM7. I guess I'll find out when I pull the oil pan because I also want to verify the beefier rods.
It'll be frustrating if it's a sing bolt cam because I have a full kit from Texas speed with 220R cam, valvesprings and hardened pushrods.
I don't have the room for the truck intake and I really like the cleaner look of the LS1 intake so I figured that's the best economical route.
It'll be frustrating if it's a sing bolt cam because I have a full kit from Texas speed with 220R cam, valvesprings and hardened pushrods.
I don't have the room for the truck intake and I really like the cleaner look of the LS1 intake so I figured that's the best economical route.
For the price people are getting for ls6 intakes these days I’d agree. I see ls1 intakes for 50-75$ on craigslist quite a bit.
That's what I was thinking. I'll verify the reluctor tonight and report back. So far I'm thinking:
LS9 head gaskets, LS2 timing chain, LS7 lifters (not sure if these are necessary), Ported LS6 oil pump, stock replacement LS1 coils.
That's all in addition to what I already have like Texas speed with 220R cam, valvesprings and hardened pushrods.
Does anyone know at what point you need a different valley cover than the truck LM7 one?
LS9 head gaskets, LS2 timing chain, LS7 lifters (not sure if these are necessary), Ported LS6 oil pump, stock replacement LS1 coils.
That's all in addition to what I already have like Texas speed with 220R cam, valvesprings and hardened pushrods.
Does anyone know at what point you need a different valley cover than the truck LM7 one?
Shouldn't need to swap out the valley cover unless you want your PCV connection there instead of a valve cover. You can run the ls1/ls6 intake with a truck alternator bracket but you will need to cut the stock idler pulley bracket off and buy a relocation bracket I think dirty dingo makes them. The water pump outlet will also need slight modification so the throttle body arm will clear (will work with DBC not sure about DBW).
Don't space the water pump out if you switch to an f body water pump. Do your self a favor and get an f body sfi harmonic damper. Also you can make your own alt bracket with the truck alt. if you put it up high on the passenger side. The belt will run around the crank pulley, up to water pump and around the alt. back down to the crank. I will find a pic of mine.
Here are some pics of my bracket. The first one I built for f body spacing on our 65 el Camino drag car. The second pic is the same car when I had it on the street with the truck spacing but you can see the belt routing.
Nice pic elky thanks. I'm still deciding high driver vs high passenger depending on where i mount the turbo on my first gen camaro. Not a lot of builds to look at to make the decision. I'm thinking turbo on passenger side up by the radiator and alt high on driver side.
I like the fbody low pass side mount. Gives the water pump more belt wrap than the above. You need to drill one hole in the block and tap it. Bolts right up. OE tensioner and all. I used a spare pulley I had laying around for the tensioner to get a tiny bit more wrap. Prob not necessary.
Last edited by Forcefed86; Feb 28, 2014 at 09:40 AM.
I don't know if I have the clearance to do the crossover under the oil pan like I think I seen you did Forcefed. I'm guessing the low pass side mount makes that a bit more difficult..
Is there any reason to switch from the 58x reluctor to the 24x? I don't really know what all that effects...
Is there any reason to switch from the 58x reluctor to the 24x? I don't really know what all that effects...
I searched around and read up on the 58x vs 24x. I need to look at my engine because I'm still not sure if it's a gen3 or gen4 block which I believe changes the camshaft sensor location.
More to come after I check it out this weekend...
More to come after I check it out this weekend...
I don't know if I have the clearance to do the crossover under the oil pan like I think I seen you did Forcefed. I'm guessing the low pass side mount makes that a bit more difficult..
Is there any reason to switch from the 58x reluctor to the 24x? I don't really know what all that effects...
Is there any reason to switch from the 58x reluctor to the 24x? I don't really know what all that effects...
It’s very easy to switch reluctor wheels, you’d have to pull out the crank. The wheels on the crank and cam tell the motor when to add spark and fuel. What do you plan to use to control fuel/spark?