pacesetter shortys vs manis for twin
pacesetter shortys vs manis for twin Been doing some thinking for my build im starting and wanted some opinions. I found pacesetter 2010 camaro shortys brand new for $220 shipped.i can really go both ways but a good set of stock 5th gen manis seem to go for 200 ish shipped. Any drawbacks you guys can think of to using shortys? I dont think heat loss will be significant plus they should be a million times easir to work with for setting up t3 flanges and wastegate tubes.
Thanks joe
Thanks joe
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From: Norn Iron
Cast manifolds are fairly robust, and tried and tested.
Mild steel isnt perhaps the best material, but as long as you have no weight hanging off it then they should be ok.
Just depends how much easier one will be to physically fit than another.
Mild steel isnt perhaps the best material, but as long as you have no weight hanging off it then they should be ok.
Just depends how much easier one will be to physically fit than another.
Thanks man.im thinking of using two rods to brace the flange on the block side from the header flange to the t3 flange.or maybe even some other type of support bracket just to be safe.i think my biggest concern is losing spool, but with the turbo so close to the ports I dont think it will matter much.the shorty should be far easier to work with and from comparing pics it looks likey they should have more clearance for the compressor cover . hopefully they will be up just high enough that I may not need a scavenge pump but im probably wrong
Down low on a 4th gen. Like BOO"SST" or the aps twin set up.if I could buy fbody aps manis for $-500 id go that route. 2010 stock manis would work just fine which is why I was thinking of the shortys.i think my biggest concern with those would be the longevity of the dissimilar metals (from welding on t3 flanges).i know v bands hold up just fine but typically they are not supporting turbos weight tho.i plan to use this car for alot of street driving and a few road trips in the summer so stuff not cracking is key.ive personally never really seen any mild steel turbo setups fail either tho so kind unsure
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I think you're likely to have the same problem with the BBKs but I don't know for sure. Other things to consider...
Driver side plug access looks atrocious.
Chrome won't last especially on a turbo application.
Driver side plug access looks atrocious.
Chrome won't last especially on a turbo application.
Look at these pics and try to picture if you can cut the shorty the same way the cast manifolds were cut. Keep in mind that you would have to cut the right manifold in a very limited certain way in able to keep the bottom of the turbine housing from hitting the k-member, starter and side rail, and both compressor housing/inlet also has to clear the engine mount/pedestal (depending on what aftermarket k-member), and the underside part of the manifolds.
Yeah im seeing what your saying BOO"SS"T the thing I guess I didnt think about was kmember clearance. I am going to be running t3\t4 turbonetics 58s but I dont know whow much smaller the turbine housing is yet.the passanger side may work but now looking more I have the feeling it would be more problematic. Looks like this week ill be ordering my turbos from forced inductions along with the dkt\bmr turbo k and ill order a set of stock manis to be safe.
Thanks for the input guys
Thanks for the input guys
Using a t3/t4 might just be a whole different story, as the t3 turbine housing is a little smaller in overall diameter than a t4, and DKT/BMR's vertical engine mount's pedestals would make a whole lot of difference. Driver's side has more room where you might be able to mount the turbo low enough (lower than the the passenger's side), and just might not have to do any clearancing, as well as in the passenger's side. I had to do some notching cu'z I chose to step-up from t3/t4 to t4. Here are some pics of a t3 .63a/r and t4 .68a/r turbine housings.
Using a t3/t4 might just be a whole different story, as the t3 turbine housing is a little smaller in overall diameter than a t4, and DKT/BMR's vertical engine mount's pedestals would make a whole lot of difference. Driver's side has more room where you might be able to mount the turbo low enough (lower than the the passenger's side), and just might not have to do any clearancing, as well as in the passenger's side. I had to do some notching cu'z I chose to step-up from t3/t4 to t4. Here are some pics of a t3 .63a/r and t4 .68a/r turbine housings.
I was looking at using a pair of Turbonetics "Ashley" series when I got around to putting mine on my 408 car along with the BMR/DKT K member. Just a thought.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tn...FYN0OgodJUIA2A
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tn...FYN0OgodJUIA2A