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cleaning inside of pipe welds/slag?

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Old 02-28-2014 | 03:42 AM
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Originally Posted by GIMPY02
U can tig tubing without using a back purge and not get "sugar" on the inside. U just have to know how to read the puddle and control ur heat properly.
Obviously if penetration is low the effect is much less.

With coated steel, just grind back to bare metal anywhere that needs welded otherwise it will splatter like mad.
Old 02-28-2014 | 06:26 AM
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Most mandrel bent tube has bend lube residue in it. That lube is usually water soluble, and will wash out. I use Purple Stuff and pull the rags thru w/ a wire.
All my turbo welds are tigged/purged. [304SS]. Outer sides are scrubbed w/ Acetone and Scotchbrite.
Old 02-28-2014 | 07:19 AM
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Sorry to thread jack a bit but while on the topic of welding prep, is mineral spirits a suitable cleaner for weld prep?
Old 02-28-2014 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by schmendog
Sorry to thread jack a bit but while on the topic of welding prep, is mineral spirits a suitable cleaner for weld prep?
I use urethane paint reducer because i always have some laying around from all the paintwork i do. That **** degreases ANYTHING. lol
Old 03-01-2014 | 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo

Obviously if penetration is low the effect is much less.

With coated steel, just grind back to bare metal anywhere that needs welded otherwise it will splatter like mad.
U do realize that the sugar is not exactly penetration. What itis is carbon which is not good with stainless can cause welds to be weak. With the proper fitment and good a weld u wont have burn threw / carbon/ sugar or whatever u want to call it unless u decided to weld it at 100 amps which is over kill. I weld food grade stainless equipment all day everyday we have any sugar part is junk... I also worked at ams performance welding all the stainless parts for gtr s...
Old 03-01-2014 | 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by JustAFooL

I was told by another member to just get aluminized steel, it was cheaper and would work just as well. Never welded it though so this is some great information to come across. More than likely will just tac weld it anyways and take it to a professional, my skills aren't the best.

I just saved this thread. I won't be starting my build till the fall, lake season is just right around the corner..
You can use the aluminzied steel. Just be sure to have a fan blowing the dust away from you and wear a mask. All the
coatings like zinc galvanized and aluminized all give off toxic fumes when welding but when grinding the dust particles are just as bad.

Don't be afraid to weld your own projects. You will never learn unless you try it out yourself
Old 03-01-2014 | 07:14 AM
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Sugaring is normally from the chromium in stainless. Carbon steels without it don't require a back purge.

With stainless back purging is pretty much required otherwise you risk a VERY weak weld.
Old 03-01-2014 | 07:49 AM
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Back to the question at hand, are there any tool like wire brushes or pipe cleaners that will get into the pipes to clean slag off?
Maybe a drain cleaning wire wheel drill attachment?
Old 03-01-2014 | 02:26 PM
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I only TIG. If you want a full penetration weld use backing gas. Sugaring a weld is just asking for pin holes. I use a die grinder with a 120 or 150 grit flap wheel if you want to make it sanitary and look like the weld was never there.
Old 03-03-2014 | 11:16 AM
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Just saw this and wanted to elaborate on the hazards of some aspects welding if its ok since its part of my job. Just be extra careful when cleaning off or degreasing the material to be welded with Chloronated Hydrocarbon Solvents the end result is the creation of Phosgene gas and at times Hydrogen Chloride (HCL) due to the UV radiation created by most welding.

Also, welding aluminized steel can create respiratory irritation.

Just be sure to weld in a well ventilated area and/or use some type of exhaust system that will move the fumes and gases away from your breathing zone.

Good info here btw...thanx.



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