Building turbo engine need opinions
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 426
Likes: 45
From: ohio
Building turbo engine need opinions I am going to put together a Datsun 280z LS1 T56 turbocharged package. I havent purchased the engine trans yet, and was looking for everyones opinion on which route to go. My target is 650WHP with a 346 aluminum LS1. I have read that the 6.0 truck heads may be the way to go. I dont know if I should start with a complete pullout from a salvage car (as I have done in the past) or should I start with a bare block and build with good parts from there (which would be more cost effective since many of the stock parts would be tossed in favor of beefier units) I dont know if it would be worth it to upgrade the short block with rods and lower the comp ratio with pistons and use the same LS1 heads. Last is the turbo issue, and what size to get. It would be nice to see full boost at 2000 rpm and take it to 6500, but I dont know which turbo to use for this. I have read that ceramic ball bearing turbos may be the way to go, and spool quicker than others. Give me yor opinion on every aspect of the build, and thanks for the talk.
Here are my solutions for you:
#1 Cheap and Cheerful
-Stock LS1 longblock
-ARP rod bolts
-L19 head studs
-LS6 intake
#2 Wallet Bruiser
-6.0 heads ported
-GM MLS 6.0 head gaskets
-L19 head studs
-LS1 block bored 3.905
-9:1 or lower FI pistons
-6.125 forged rods
-ARP rod bolts
-ARP main studs
-ported and blueprinted oil pump
-LS6 intake
Buying a whole driveline is nice because then you know what sensors you have etc.
#1 Cheap and Cheerful
-Stock LS1 longblock
-ARP rod bolts
-L19 head studs
-LS6 intake
#2 Wallet Bruiser
-6.0 heads ported
-GM MLS 6.0 head gaskets
-L19 head studs
-LS1 block bored 3.905
-9:1 or lower FI pistons
-6.125 forged rods
-ARP rod bolts
-ARP main studs
-ported and blueprinted oil pump
-LS6 intake
Buying a whole driveline is nice because then you know what sensors you have etc.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
I notice even in your 2nd expensive option, that you dont replace the rods ???
How far have the std rods been abused ( with ARP bolts ) and how long have they lasted.
How many breakages have there actually been, regardless of power, ***uming rpm's are kept below 6500-7000rpm
How far have the std rods been abused ( with ARP bolts ) and how long have they lasted.
How many breakages have there actually been, regardless of power, ***uming rpm's are kept below 6500-7000rpm
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 426
Likes: 45
From: ohio
What about an engine with stock heads, head studs, ARP rod bolts with forged rods, main studs, LS6 intake, MLS gaskets and lower comp pistons stock bore? How important is the ported oil pump. Have there been many failures of the stock pump? Which manufacturer of rods and pistons would you choose? In my last 3 swaps i have always purchased the complete takeout, and have preached it to many. I didnt know what would need to be replaced for this kind of "reliable" power level, but it seems like I will be in search of a complete takeout again. Keep thie info coming in, this is a good education for me. After we sort this out we'll start on a turbo selection.
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CDK, I have a '03 Forged LS6 Long or shortblock (if you don't want the heads). It is a lowered compression (9.3:1) and has ported heads with 2.02/1.58 valves. It has Diamond coated pistions (tops and sides), ARP head studs, forged rods w/ ARP bolts. It made 580rwhp with a T71 GTQ single turbo thru a C5 driveline. I am switching to a 422CI setup to go with my T76 GTS Turbo. I see that you are in ohio, so you could come check the engine out before I have it removed. Give me a call at 248-842-3309 if interested.