Hi-Po

iTrader: (4)

It's not the engine or transmission I'm worried about guys. MWC and strange are adamant about the 500 miles.

Only ERO's

iTrader: (19)

I know where all you guys are coming from with saying get out there and beat on it. I am guessing he is following MWC's recommendation for 500 mile break in period on the rear. And I must admit, I don't blame him for that. I did 300 miles on my original setup and that was hard enough. When I decided to switch to the Twin Turbo setup, I don't think the gears had 5 miles on them when it went to the dyno. And Eric is correct, they will make a bunch of noise if not broken in properly!

Can't wait to see the end results with this beast!

oscs

iTrader: (19)

Well that makes a lot of sense. You sir have a hell of a lot more patience than I.

Hi-Po

iTrader: (4)

I'm losing it quickly, every time I drive the car. I'm just worried about severe gear noise like I had in my last 9" and the 12 bolt before that. **** is annoying!

I've blurred the lines between racecar and street car, a spool sounds fun right now.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

Suspension and rearend all look great under there, you have done a nice job on this car!

We appreciate the patience of the directions being followed on break-in process. "The #1 cause of failed gears is improper break-in procedure... not setup". Quote from the lead tech at Richmond Gear.

Hi-Po

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the kind words everyone! Still need to get the MWC cage welded in, but finding someone local that doesn't want 1,700 dollars to weld it in is a problem. I'll break my TIG welder out before I pay that. Other shops want to make me a cage and say I shouldn't have bought pre bent etc. It will be so nice when the cage is done and I can reinstall my dash/interior. I'm driving around like a mad man with no dash, wiring everywhere and one seat

I set the MWC weld in ARB to neutral today and set the shocks to 9/9 all the way around. I was going to call MWC for recommendations, but figured I would give this a shot for daily driving and not tie up their phone lines.

Put another 20 miles or so on it today. Still tweaking the tune and learning as I go The Dominator is fairly intuitive, though.

Had to redo the vent for my fuel tank. Still not sure if it's 100%. Fuel tank has kind of pissed me off, but it is what it is and I'll get it worked out.

Slowly getting there.

Mekkadon

iTrader: (3)

Subbing to this because ill be running a similar setup. Im thinking 66/65 or the billet 64/68 turbonetics with huron kit.

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

Although I now run pro gears, back in my street gear days I still never adhered to a break in period. I've never broken a ring gear or pinion, and I've never had one whine either. I don't buy the break-in ****. Sorry, I just don't. Maybe it's all in the set up, I don't know.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

My ford racing gears had the break in pattern already worn in and you could clearly see it. I hit the street and laid into it immediately. With no whining i went about my business. I don't know if other gears come broken in already or not so i can see why some guys would take it easy.

stevieturbo

I've Ford Racing ring and pinion in my 8.8", never done any break in nonsense and never had a problem.

Well until saturday night when my diff completely exploded lol but that wasnt a fault of lack of break in lol

Hi-Po

iTrader: (4)

Got another 60 miles and a cool down, then rolled into the throttle. It's hard for me to believe the log.

3160 RPM
155 KPA
31% TPS

Attached are a few screen shots

Hi-Po

iTrader: (4)

Also, to finalize the rear end break in procedure discussion. I'm learning as I go... so taking it easy has probably been a good thing. No harm in taking your time and trying to do things right!

I paid for the parts, I put the time in assembling the parts... I'm going to do things my way

stevieturbo

part throttle boost, different gears etc dont always correspond to full throttle and other types of driving.

If I apply the throttle in say 5th gear, I can easily make 15psi by a little over 3000rpm. The same will not happen in 1st or 2nd gear simply because the engine is loaded differently.

Often boost will also rise quicker at lower throttle openings, another reason why excessively large blades serve no purpose at all.

either way, it all looks like a good setup.

Hi-Po

iTrader: (4)

Makes sense, looking at the logs, I was in 3rd gear.

Need to get a fan for my transmission cooler. It's getting up to ~200* just cruising around. After the cooler will be roughly 190*. Is anyone else monitoring before and after transmission cooler temperatures? I didn't think I would need a fan for cruising. Would like to see the temperatures in the 175* range.

stevieturbo

Cruising at what speed ?

generally if you're talking in excess of 30-40mph, there should be ample airflow from that alone and a fan would not improve things.

Maybe better ducting to ensure air goes through the core ?

Hi-Po

iTrader: (4)

Yea, I don't have any ducting currently. It's mounted horizontally behind the radiator. I thought it would be a decent spot for it. I'll try adding a piece of sheet metal ducting to direct air over it while driving. It's only shedding ~10* as it is.

Probably going to add a fan regardless. Florida heat is pretty tough on fluids. Spal has an 8" puller fan that should fit nicely, rated at 500 CFM.

stevieturbo

Ducting and a fan certainly cant hurt anything.

Anything that helps air get in, and of course away from it again will help.

Hi-Po

iTrader: (4)

Does anyone run this fuel tank? I have tried everything to vent this thing to no avail. I either have issues filling or spraying/leaking fuel when I shut down (I hope it's only then, would hate to think I'm leaking fuel as I drive!) Very frustrating.

I've read every thread I could find, all the way back to 2007 and called the manufacture. Looking for advice from others, can be in PMs if you want.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Stock tank for sale?

stevieturbo

Run what fuel tank ?

And what are you using for a breather ?

Hi-Po

iTrader: (4)

Nasty Nate fabricated.

Currently, I'm running a -10 hose, with no coils around filler neck, to a filter tied to the filler neck. It is about as high as you can go in the fender. (In this setup, it's difficult to fill the tank and it leaks fuel from the filler neck/gas cap, upon shutting car off.)

Previously, I ran a -10 hose, coiled around the filler neck, with a larger filter in roughly the same location. (With this setup, fuel would find its way into the coils, and sit there, not draining back to tank. Thus, when you pumped gas, that trapped fuel would spray out of the vent)

Now that my vent is not coiled, it leaks from the actual gas cap, usually when shutting the car off. I am crossing my fingers it's not at times leaking while driving. My next try will be a larger filter and maybe a catch can. A catch can seems like a band aid, though. The seal on the cap is cracked pretty bad and I will try a new cap tomorrow as well.

I have visions of an L fitting out of vent/tank pointed up to a short hose going directly above the tank with a filter. I would have to massage the tunnel for this idea.