68 Chevy II Build
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
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Have you verified that the blue/white wire goes to the correct pin on the ECU?
There is a chance it got assembled wrong.
Also, have you verified continuity of that wire from their connector to the end that goes to the tach with your ohm meter?
There is a chance it got assembled wrong.
Also, have you verified continuity of that wire from their connector to the end that goes to the tach with your ohm meter?
that was my orig post on YB-6811 is using the correct wire, providing it goes to pin 28-i thought he buzzed it out to verify, I know on my harness there were errors, but they changed wiring vendors because of the mistakes.
I think that change occurred in late 2012
you could try and ask on YB (elect section) and get some ideas, if you don't have an account there I could do it-I will be talking to an ex Holley emp. today, i'll pick his brain
Doug F on here is Holley FI, maybe PM him
I think that change occurred in late 2012
you could try and ask on YB (elect section) and get some ideas, if you don't have an account there I could do it-I will be talking to an ex Holley emp. today, i'll pick his brain
Doug F on here is Holley FI, maybe PM him
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
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Well I made it out to the track last night. It was a little disappointing but cemented what I thought was going to be an issue. The car weighed 3570 with me in it and 1/2 tank gas. Combined with the 1.76 glide and 3.42s it 60' like a herd of turtles. I launched on 7lbs off the trans brake and it would dead hook, drag the engine down and only pull 1.9 60'. So basically I need to get some meth on it and turn it up to get it moving. Also this is with the air filter and full exhaust on.
7psi launch and ~8psi in high gear
12* timing
10.8 AFR
1.9 60' and 11.7 @ 120
7psi launch and ~8psi in high gear
12* timing
10.8 AFR
1.9 60' and 11.7 @ 120
Last edited by 68II; Sep 27, 2014 at 08:00 AM.
You get the tach working?
Good that you made some test hits. No worries on the numbers, 8 psi is nothing. Sneak up on it, you know what the potential is.
Not sure where you are. Do you have much season left?
Ron
Good that you made some test hits. No worries on the numbers, 8 psi is nothing. Sneak up on it, you know what the potential is.
Not sure where you are. Do you have much season left?
Ron
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
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Thanks Ron, I live in Massachusetts so we have till the end of October before tracks close. Tach is not working so I set a soft rev limit at 6,400 and shifted when I felt that. I'm sending the computer back to holley once the snow falls. It will not trigger a shift light either, tried that with a new one last week.
Well I made it out to the track last night. It was a little disappointing but cemented what I thought was going to be an issue. The car weighed 3570 with me in it and 1/2 tank gas. Combined with the 1.76 glide and 3.42s it 60' like a herd of turtles. I launched on 7lbs off the trans brake and it would dead hook, drag the engine down and only pull 1.9 60'. So basically I need to get some meth on it and turn it up to get it moving. Also this is with the air filter and full exhaust on.
7psi launch and ~8psi in high gear
12* timing
10.8 AFR
1.9 60' and 11.7 @ 120
7psi launch and ~8psi in high gear
12* timing
10.8 AFR
1.9 60' and 11.7 @ 120
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I talked to the guy I knew, he said it should trigger the tach
anyway, did you hook that blue/white to the shift light?
the guy that helped with my tune set it up with one of the outputs, and I could program the RPM
you pick a spare output, pin it, drag it down just like doing the fans-I would be curious if that works-I think it uses a gnd or 12V, I forget
but it would give you a shift light-I think my shift light was 2 wires, neg and pos
anyway, did you hook that blue/white to the shift light?
the guy that helped with my tune set it up with one of the outputs, and I could program the RPM
you pick a spare output, pin it, drag it down just like doing the fans-I would be curious if that works-I think it uses a gnd or 12V, I forget
but it would give you a shift light-I think my shift light was 2 wires, neg and pos
nice to see you got some runs in the first runs always give you a lot of things to do.
did you check the timing with a dead stop? your 60' seem soft to me. 7lbs should be very strong from a dead stop . even with a glide and 3.42 .
did you check the timing with a dead stop? your 60' seem soft to me. 7lbs should be very strong from a dead stop . even with a glide and 3.42 .
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
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Thanks Bean I'll give that a try tomorrow see if it feels better.
Yes the blue/white wire I hooked to the shift light. Holley told me it's the same output as a MSD box that I had to trigger it.
Yenko I have not confirmed timing, how do I go about doing that? It is a wicked dog coming out of the hole. I punched in the mph and weight and it says ~500hp which seems about inline considering it starts as a 330hp engine with 8 psi on top of it.
Yes the blue/white wire I hooked to the shift light. Holley told me it's the same output as a MSD box that I had to trigger it.
Yenko I have not confirmed timing, how do I go about doing that? It is a wicked dog coming out of the hole. I punched in the mph and weight and it says ~500hp which seems about inline considering it starts as a 330hp engine with 8 psi on top of it.
if you wanted to hook up a shift light or some kind of light with a 2 wire
+12/neg, I think I can remember how to do it
you use one of the 4 outputs, if spare, configure it to operate it at a set RPM you pick
its just like when you set up the fans, only you name it, drag it to a pin, then pick the color wire from the outputs
+12/neg, I think I can remember how to do it
you use one of the 4 outputs, if spare, configure it to operate it at a set RPM you pick
its just like when you set up the fans, only you name it, drag it to a pin, then pick the color wire from the outputs
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
if you wanted to hook up a shift light or some kind of light with a 2 wire
+12/neg, I think I can remember how to do it
you use one of the 4 outputs, if spare, configure it to operate it at a set RPM you pick
its just like when you set up the fans, only you name it, drag it to a pin, then pick the color wire from the outputs
+12/neg, I think I can remember how to do it
you use one of the 4 outputs, if spare, configure it to operate it at a set RPM you pick
its just like when you set up the fans, only you name it, drag it to a pin, then pick the color wire from the outputs
I thought it was a 6.0 sorry .you can make a timing pointer and if you get a piston stop you can bump up to the piston stop from both directions and true tdc is half way between those two marks. . being a 5.3 im guessing your a little softer than a 6.0 but it still seems like it should leave harder with a 7 psi launch. your car has a nice well built system. and im sure you will get it flying did you check the cam timing (degree it) . im sure it will respond to a little more boost.
p.s. don't get me wrong i love the build and the first track trips are always a learning curve. and the 120 mph is showing some power. and it will only get faster. nice car.
p.s. don't get me wrong i love the build and the first track trips are always a learning curve. and the 120 mph is showing some power. and it will only get faster. nice car.
correct-you use an output, pick an RPM to activate the light, and an RPM to deactivate it
its a pretty simple deal to get around your problem temp.
I think I used a cheap little Autometer light, but any light will work
its a pretty simple deal to get around your problem temp.
I think I used a cheap little Autometer light, but any light will work
what you can do is make a nice timing tab something that is good and will stay solid. than buy or borrow a piston stop that goes in the spark plug hole #1 cylinder.. pull all the plugs so it turns easy and turn the engine until you hit the stop. mark the balancer there at your timing pointer then turn it back the other way until it stops again mark the balancer again. exactly half way between those marks is top dead center at your timing tab . make a permanent mark there you can use a file to make a groove and put some paint in it. then get a timing light with a dial and check to be sure your timing matches you timing table at different rpms.
sounds like a ton of work but it will give you a true timing mark.
sounds like a ton of work but it will give you a true timing mark.
Is it common for the timing to be off on a stock engine?
You will only have 0 to look at, and not a dead accurate 0 at that. But I'd suggest putting the timing at 0 in the program to check. And hope the engine will idle at 0 degrees.
You will only have 0 to look at, and not a dead accurate 0 at that. But I'd suggest putting the timing at 0 in the program to check. And hope the engine will idle at 0 degrees.
I don't know how often on these ls engines but I can say I have never seen an old sbc/bbc that was dead on the timing marks.and I have seen them 4-or 5 degrees off. I did see some talk on another forum about some being off.