Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I'd drive it!

Though comparing a small bore 2.0, with a 4V head reving to 11k isn't exactly a good comparison.

Still.. I bet I could spank him with a $200 8.5:1 JY motor and never rev over 6k.

stevieturbo

Except extreme tuners only seem to excel at posting videos and shiny products.

I dont know anyone who's been able to buy any of their products, and for their huge power claims...actual real world performance of any cars they have posted videos of...well, doesnt seem to back the claims

Goosecaddy05

i can drop my static down to 10.54 with a .060 gasket but then would i mess up the quench and be counterproductive? the motor is together and i'm not changing pistons or heads... i do have -10cc dished pistons and have heard that the quench acts differently with dished vs flat tops

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

You would have to know what your quench area was. From what I’ve read there is an ideal “window” of .035-.065. Going to tighter will usually end up in piston to valve contact. Going slightly less than ideal will increase you chance of knock. .070-.110 is generally considered a BAD area. Once out of this range you basically have a “non quench” engine and your good to go!

I know they make thicker than .060 head gaskets. Cometic makes a .070 gasket you can purchase off the shelf. They also will make a custom HG any thickness you want. I ran a 3mm (.11”) head gasket on my inline 6. Worked great.

Goosecaddy05

I'm not exactly sure what my quench is... tsp built the motor and i think they build them to be right at zero deck, so would that make me have a quench of around the same as my head gasket which is a .040 Cometic?

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Quench

Pretty much, but the piston dish throws a bit of a loop in there. Do your dished pistons have a quench pad? I'd ask TSP personally what they suggest.

Goosecaddy05

they are weisco pistons

Dynospeed

iTrader: (3)

Since your making 520whp now I see no problem making 700whp on 8 psi. If you keep the compression up run meth. Maybe I missed it but which head unit are you going to run?

Goosecaddy05

the same heads i have now, they are PRC 247cc cathedral port heads

Flow Data:
No Exhaust Pipe


LIFT INTAKE FLOW EXHAUST FLOW
.100" 66 CFM 57 CFM
.200" 147 CFM 117 CFM
.300" 228 CFM 170 CFM
.400" 282 CFM 206 CFM
.500" 321 CFM 227 CFM
.600" 343 CFM 235 CFM
.650" 355 CFM 241 CFM
.700" 360 CFM 245 CFM

99z28383

iTrader: (1)

Haha don't doubt that! Yeah I know it's comparing apples to oranges, I just like this high compression + boost video - the car screams.

Goosecaddy05

but the same thing also applies to the lower compression motor as well, its dynamic will also increase with rpm, so if both setups have the same cylinder pressures then they are effectively no different regardless of their different boost levels right?

Goosecaddy05

also i would not be considering this if it were not on a centrifugal blower... my buddy with the novi 5.0 has 9-10psi on 11/1 compresiion running 19 degrees timing with no knock at all even in hot ambient... his iat never goes above ambient as well and he is not running meth or race gas either, its on pump and he makes 650rwhp and traps consistet 135-136 at 10.2-10.4 in the quarter

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Depends on the cam you run, but yes it will always change. What your talking about doing is excessive though. The whole point is a correctly spec'd cam doesn't bleed off more cylinder pressure than is necessary.

I think you should run the most compression you can to achieve your power goal on the fuel you plan to run. Since your starting with pump gas, 11:1 is too high IMO. The amount of cylinder pressure you’d need to bleed off to run decent boost would be counterproductive. Your just wasting power and you’ll have a cam that’s not matched properly the motor. A cams main purpose is to time the valve events to produce the broadest power range in your engines rpm window. It’s not meant to drop 2-3 points of compression! Hanging the valves open that long is a waste.

Assuming you could keep the cylinder pressure exactly the same then the knock threshold would be the same for both engines. In the real world there’s no way you could do that. What your talking about doing won’t accomplish equal cylinder pressures.

I'm not saying it won't work either. I'm just saying I'd go the other route. Try it, let us know.

Goosecaddy05

the cam i'm using now is the one i would be using with the blower. it is an n/a cam, but it will also work with 8 psi well, the same as how stock ls3 picks up 190 to 200 rwhp on 7psi with a procharger with the stock cam and 10.7 compression, those cams are 8.3 dynamic and have absolutely no problems with boost, i get what your saying about maximizing a setup, but my setup runs strong n/a and with just 7-8 psi i will be able to hit around 700rwhp no prob, i'm not trying to have any more than that and 8psi should be no issue at all, i talked to my tuner about it and he agrees, he only thinks its a bad idea to run 10psi or up on 11/1 and most of the stuff they tune on is boost

this is my n/a graph