Seriously contemplating a new FI-compatible long-block... VENDORS??
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From: Rocky Mtn thin air & snow...
Seriously contemplating a new FI-compatible long-block... VENDORS?? Hey all,
I know I haven't been around in forever, but life's finally turning back around to where I can think about working on the car again. And I've done some thinking in the intervening period, & I'm giving serious thought to selling the current VVT-equipped aluminum 6.2L that I have now if favor of a forced-induction-compatible engine.
I've taken a good look at the LSX376 B15 engine (which seems like a pretty decent fit for what I'm planning) but it seems like whenever it's brought up, someone's saying "You can get a better engine built for less money".
Well, I REALLY want to find out if that's true - is it possible to get the LSX block, the six-bolt rectangular-port heads, forged crank, boost-compatible camshaft & all the other parts of comparable (or better) quality shipped to my door (in a suburb of Denver, CO) for less than $7,741?? Because the B15 is advertised for $7,742 both here and here, (one of those vendors offers free shipping) not to mention the fact that Summit will beat any advertised price (thus the $7,741 price) + give free shipping.
If that's possible, AWESOME, I'll be on that like a Rottweiler on a ribeye - but so far I haven't seen any. I've just sold my camper today, and if I sell the L92 sitting in my garage, that should get me most of the way to the price of the new engine. Add in the fact that my new job pays a LOT more than any previous job I've had,
& this is looking pretty realistic for me - I just need to know which engine to get.
The engine that I would like to find should:
Thanks guys, I'm looking forward to some interesting responses...
I know I haven't been around in forever, but life's finally turning back around to where I can think about working on the car again. And I've done some thinking in the intervening period, & I'm giving serious thought to selling the current VVT-equipped aluminum 6.2L that I have now if favor of a forced-induction-compatible engine.
I've taken a good look at the LSX376 B15 engine (which seems like a pretty decent fit for what I'm planning) but it seems like whenever it's brought up, someone's saying "You can get a better engine built for less money".
Well, I REALLY want to find out if that's true - is it possible to get the LSX block, the six-bolt rectangular-port heads, forged crank, boost-compatible camshaft & all the other parts of comparable (or better) quality shipped to my door (in a suburb of Denver, CO) for less than $7,741?? Because the B15 is advertised for $7,742 both here and here, (one of those vendors offers free shipping) not to mention the fact that Summit will beat any advertised price (thus the $7,741 price) + give free shipping.
If that's possible, AWESOME, I'll be on that like a Rottweiler on a ribeye - but so far I haven't seen any. I've just sold my camper today, and if I sell the L92 sitting in my garage, that should get me most of the way to the price of the new engine. Add in the fact that my new job pays a LOT more than any previous job I've had,
& this is looking pretty realistic for me - I just need to know which engine to get.The engine that I would like to find should:
- Make 420+ hp naturally-aspirated (yeah, I know that's not a real high bar to clear);
- Provide good driveability when naturally-aspirated;
- NOT require me to change any internal parts when I eventually bolt on a turbocharger
- Be able to handle 12 - 15 lbs. of boost
Thanks guys, I'm looking forward to some interesting responses...
Last edited by V8Rumble; Jul 6, 2014 at 09:58 AM.
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From: Rocky Mtn thin air & snow...
OK, well, I was kind of thinking that (in addition to vendors) people might also chime in with suggestions, ideally vendors that they've had good results with... I've searched two or three times, and worked through one of the 'build your own engine' pages on one vendor's site, but everything I've found so far has been more expensive - sometimes considerably more so...
Anyone have any suggestions?? Thanks guys.
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From: Rocky Mtn thin air & snow...
Well, the two concerns that I have about the L92 are that:
1 - the stock compression ratio's too high to use with turbocharging, and
2 - the aluminum block will flex/move around a bit under boost (around 8 lbs? 10 lbs?)
Honestly, if it wasn't for the block flexing, I'd keep this engine & just try to budget for a rebuild when I added the turbo - but from what I've read, the aluminum block isn't the "hot ticket" for boost. (I'm aiming to take part in road-course & open-road events when the car's done.)
1 - the stock compression ratio's too high to use with turbocharging, and
2 - the aluminum block will flex/move around a bit under boost (around 8 lbs? 10 lbs?)
Honestly, if it wasn't for the block flexing, I'd keep this engine & just try to budget for a rebuild when I added the turbo - but from what I've read, the aluminum block isn't the "hot ticket" for boost. (I'm aiming to take part in road-course & open-road events when the car's done.)
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From: Rocky Mtn thin air & snow...
WOW. THAT is considerably more power than I'm shooting for! 
So how much power does the aluminum block typically take before it starts flexing/moving around?? My transmission is rated to 700 hp, so I guess I shouldn't try to push it too far past that...
And seriously, these two replies just make me HAPPY as hell!!
That means that I can apply this money toward the new forged rotating assembly, AND that I can keep the better-balance of the lighter block (which is a BIG deal for me!). THANKS AGAIN guys, looks like it's time for some more searching/reading before I buy any parts...
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From: Rocky Mtn thin air & snow...
Hmmmmm... 
I need to replace the existing crank anyway... (The threads at the rear of the stock crank appear to be fragged.) 
Wonder if I shouldn't just replace the whole rotating assembly while I'm at it... 
I need to replace the existing crank anyway... (The threads at the rear of the stock crank appear to be fragged.) Wonder if I shouldn't just replace the whole rotating assembly while I'm at it... 
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From: Rocky Mtn thin air & snow...
Outstanding, thanks for all the good info, guys! I'm really glad to learn that I've apparently been underestimating the potential of this engine... (I've probably never been so happy to be wrong in my life!) 
Give Kyle at Thompson Motorsports a shout. They do all of our engine work and I have never been anything but satisfied! He can also give you some recommendations and such to help out with your decision as well.
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From: Rocky Mtn thin air & snow...
Thanks for all the great info guys. Biggest question I have right now is finding a local machine shop that's good with these engines - I think tomorrow I'm going to call one of the biggest/best rollcage/exhaust builders in town (he's been around for quite a while) & see if he has any suggestions.
From what I'm seeing so far, it looks like I'm probably going to have to hone the cylinders out .005" since there seems to be a noticeably-better piston selection at that diameter (4.070" vs. 4.065") - does that sound right to you guys??
(It freakin' KILLS me to pay to do any machine work to this engine since it's still never even been fired up - but ya gotta do what you've gotta do, I guess...) :p
Biggest question I have right now is finding a local machine shop that's good with these engines - I think tomorrow I'm going to call one of the biggest/best rollcage/exhaust builders in town (he's been around for quite a while) & see if he has any suggestions.From what I'm seeing so far, it looks like I'm probably going to have to hone the cylinders out .005" since there seems to be a noticeably-better piston selection at that diameter (4.070" vs. 4.065") - does that sound right to you guys??
(It freakin' KILLS me to pay to do any machine work to this engine since it's still never even been fired up - but ya gotta do what you've gotta do, I guess...) :p