THE next true street car build
Don't worry his coolant lines will be the new -20 RPS/Fragola pushlock hose and fittings.. At Least if I have anything to do with it 
And you know Race Part Solutions will be all over this build. Looking forward to the un-naturally aspirated portion of this fine project.
And you know Race Part Solutions will be all over this build. Looking forward to the un-naturally aspirated portion of this fine project.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,018
Likes: 51
From: Virginia
CBM makes the billet parts to convert the water pump to -an and I'll get the rest of the parts from Darin.
-wanted to stay mechanical for high flow, reliability, and to help reduce electrical draw overall.
the turbos are mid-mounted where the factory fuel tanks were. air side facing the scoops on the z06 fenders and exhaust much in-line with the factory path. charge pipe is the passenger frame tube, exiting in front of radiator.
originally i wanted to run the car off a single control system, i have backed off of that idea and will be running oem and bs3 in tandem like my previous car had. so the wiring is less of a guessing game just more of a streamlining job (still intense).
the cage was investing in the future of the car, to make sure it never needed work again. I am not planning on 6.50's just wanted it all there.
-my plans are in the 7.50 range in true street (drive it to the track, race, drive it home) trim, on a radial. maximum effort was traded out for durability in areas like the engine for example.
pulse leash (trans brake bump box)
coil over kit from Qa1
i have some questions for anyone with experience in the subject.
-why are radiator hoses so large when the thermostat is comparably small and restrictive. better to use -12 or -16 vs. 20+ or worse and why?
-i am looking for someone who has hooked up a BS3 or similar driveshaft speed sensor to a GM trans speed sensor (toss/speedo).
-cable driven fuel pump experience welcome. i am struggling a bit to find clear info on the pump choices from waterman and other companies aeromotive, weldon, etc. and what ''bolts up'' to the waterman drive.
-wanted to stay mechanical for high flow, reliability, and to help reduce electrical draw overall.
the turbos are mid-mounted where the factory fuel tanks were. air side facing the scoops on the z06 fenders and exhaust much in-line with the factory path. charge pipe is the passenger frame tube, exiting in front of radiator.
originally i wanted to run the car off a single control system, i have backed off of that idea and will be running oem and bs3 in tandem like my previous car had. so the wiring is less of a guessing game just more of a streamlining job (still intense).
the cage was investing in the future of the car, to make sure it never needed work again. I am not planning on 6.50's just wanted it all there.
-my plans are in the 7.50 range in true street (drive it to the track, race, drive it home) trim, on a radial. maximum effort was traded out for durability in areas like the engine for example.
pulse leash (trans brake bump box)
coil over kit from Qa1
i have some questions for anyone with experience in the subject.
-why are radiator hoses so large when the thermostat is comparably small and restrictive. better to use -12 or -16 vs. 20+ or worse and why?
-i am looking for someone who has hooked up a BS3 or similar driveshaft speed sensor to a GM trans speed sensor (toss/speedo).
-cable driven fuel pump experience welcome. i am struggling a bit to find clear info on the pump choices from waterman and other companies aeromotive, weldon, etc. and what ''bolts up'' to the waterman drive.
I had a -20 feed and -16 return on mine with zero cooling issues.
The only problem I had is the -20 is the BIGGEST ******* nightmare to make and it doesnt have a very tight bend radius. Literally it took two 190 lb guys to make mine, one putting full body weight on the hose to slip down in the collar and the other putting the end on.
Im switching mine to -16 inlet now due to how much a PIA the -20 was to put on and off and I need to reroute the line to clear the belt drive fuel pump.
Just a heads up, couple of guys down here have told me that once the automotive red pump is primed it stays that way if you use a highflow check valve inline and it draws -20in of vac.
LME makes a bracket for it to mount up by the tensioner, I know of one local guy that has the setup so Ill try and get you some pictures.
The only problem I had is the -20 is the BIGGEST ******* nightmare to make and it doesnt have a very tight bend radius. Literally it took two 190 lb guys to make mine, one putting full body weight on the hose to slip down in the collar and the other putting the end on.
Im switching mine to -16 inlet now due to how much a PIA the -20 was to put on and off and I need to reroute the line to clear the belt drive fuel pump.
Just a heads up, couple of guys down here have told me that once the automotive red pump is primed it stays that way if you use a highflow check valve inline and it draws -20in of vac.
LME makes a bracket for it to mount up by the tensioner, I know of one local guy that has the setup so Ill try and get you some pictures.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,018
Likes: 51
From: Virginia
Just a heads up, couple of guys down here have told me that once the automotive red pump is primed it stays that way if you use a highflow check valve inline and it draws -20in of vac.
LME makes a bracket for it to mount up by the tensioner, I know of one local guy that has the setup so Ill try and get you some pictures.