5.3 turbo powered 240 swap
#25
What are doing for drive shaft? I lucked up and already had a one piece s13 drive shaft that I just stuck the 4l60e yoke on and it fit. If I remember right the F body was a tad long...easily could have been shortened to work though
#27
Sounds like option 2 be the way to go. Go ahead and throw you in some solid rear subframe bushing in sounds like your going to need all the traction help you can get.
#28
Any chance you measured the length of the connecting "rod" between the motor and chassis mount? That is pretty much exactly how I was thinking about setting up my mounts. Awesome work once again.
#29
yeah i can measure them for you before i put the manifolds in, honestly ill just get you plate to plate measurement, but why not just throw yours together when you do it, you might have the trans or engine in a slightly different spot or k member cut more or less than me, etc
but i will gladly give you the measurement between the plates, haha
but i will gladly give you the measurement between the plates, haha
#30
TECH Resident
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Michigan
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denmah, if you were doing something like this but with MS3 to run the engine, and you didn't have a 60e sitting there that you wanted to use, would you maybe use a glide, or TH350, or what? Thanks!
(or would you say that it's just a lot better idea to get familiar with HPT? Lol)
(or would you say that it's just a lot better idea to get familiar with HPT? Lol)
#37
^^^You are a brave man. Some people have been lucky keeping it stock but anything over 350+ lbs/TQ (estimated based on HP) has destroyed those things. The only two options I have seen handle that kind of power are the Q45 setups and the Skyline diff setup. I swapped over to the early gen 90-94 Q45 with the 3.54 ratio and stronger 31 spline axles (300zx TT and Q45 hybrid) along with the 300zx TT hubs. These things have proven to take a beating.
Also went with an SPL solid diff bushing to help with power.
Also went with an SPL solid diff bushing to help with power.
#39
8 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
I’d give the OEM rear a shot personally.
Everyone told me I was insane to run the “weak” rx-7 auto diff with the tiny axles… Because Stock 95ftlb rotary motors break them with a few hard launches.
With my auto setup loading it up on the converter I ran that diff for 5+ years with no issues. Hundreds of 10-11 sec passes and low 1.7x 60’s Dipping into the 1.6x range at the end. I never broke it. It’s mostly drive train “shock” that breaks things. Autos don’t “shock”.
Everyone told me I was insane to run the “weak” rx-7 auto diff with the tiny axles… Because Stock 95ftlb rotary motors break them with a few hard launches.
With my auto setup loading it up on the converter I ran that diff for 5+ years with no issues. Hundreds of 10-11 sec passes and low 1.7x 60’s Dipping into the 1.6x range at the end. I never broke it. It’s mostly drive train “shock” that breaks things. Autos don’t “shock”.