I was wondering if anyone could help me out and tell me exactly what I need/to do for a turbo build on a l33. I know theres many similar forums but im just looking for a clean cut explanation. I have a hx35w turbo that I want to fab to a l33. I was wondering what ill be able to run on a stock bottom end or if i should beef it up, heads, studs, efi or carb, intake, tuning, rings, rods, intercooler, or anything else. Im new to forced induction but not to engine building. I see alot of people using the ls6 cam and truck manifolds. wondering what the easiest and most reliable build is not looking for anything super crazy. It is also going in a 85 iroc if anyone has any input on a setup for that. Any input is welcome
Thanks guys!

 

There are probably a hundred threads in 2014 alone discussing exactly what you seek. Read up!

The shortblock is strong. If the engine has high miles run it as is. Less that ~100K miles you might want to open the rings a little. LS6 cam will work well. Cheap head studs are recommended. The truck manifolds will not work in our 3rd gens (I also have a L33 turbo 85...) pointed forward and down unless you ditch the steering box for a manual rack, and even then the manifolds must be modified.

 

Do you have a cylinder head you prefer 317? 799? im not sure of all the casting numbers and what kind of exhaust are you running on your 85?
Thanks

 

^^^^^

 

The L33 has 799s stock (a few have 243s), which are basically the same as the sought after 243 heads. The 317s have similar ports with bigger chambers. Keep the 799 heads you already have.

I have custom tubular headers.

 

I went with 317 heads on my L33 to drop compression a tad for running on 93 octane every now and again. No complaints.

 

been running my l33 for 3 years, 91 octane, 10-12 psi, has been lean a few times, 13 afr's....and it still runs great

 

The only reliable oem turbo motors I know of ar in the 8.5-9.5:1 compression ratio with the exception of some of the new direct injection stuff. Those seem to defy all logic in the boost, compression and afrs they are able to run. On 9:1 compression motors I have run as much as 20 psi in factory turbo applications (subaru and evos even higher boost). I chose to model my ls motor after that. I know they are not apples to apples, but if I give a point on compression and am able to safely run more boost, I would prefer that for the most part.

 

i dont plan on running anymore then maybe 8-12 psi of boost but im sure that will change haha as far as injectors what have you guys used that worked the best also fuel pump and how did you go about tuning it ?

 

The stock 9.9:1 will work fine at that boost level on 93 octane. You'll need a good intercooler and most importantly, a good tune.

I'm running Siemens Deka 80lb/hr injectors and a Walbro 400lph pump.

 

I would say plan on more injector and pump than you think you will use. It won't cost THAT much more and if you ever want to turn it up, with e85 especially, it will be there. You can't use what you don't have, but you don't have to use all that you have. My 160 lb injectors work just as well putting around town as they do at 15-20 psi of boost. Also be realistic. Just about the first thing any turbo owner wants to do after a little while is crank up the boost...especially if you have a turbo that is capable of it!

 

iam in the works of my l33 turbo in my c10, only thing i did on my bottom end was put arp rod bolts in it and installed arp head studs,as far as the charger iam using a borgwarner s475... little larger than your hx35..... but i was curious as to who is using the 80il/hr injectors, i have been looking at getting some but my question is what ones to get that match the delphi connectors on the original wiring harness??.... does the ev6 work or what?? iam lost... , also i have the engine running on the stock injectors but havent started building boost or a tune, i havent moved it out of the shop...

 

Where do you have the turbo mounted and the intercooler mounted? and did you upgrade you oil pump or leave it stock?

 

Doing research on this same thing, I want a fast non sports car, was going between a turbo Honda or a 350 s10 but decided to go with a short wheel vase truck I've always wanted (mid 2000s chevy 5 speed) with an ls based engine, looking for 12 seconds if I put on slicks. I'm looking to have it as reliable as possible, will be a DD, my issue is 91 octane is the most I can get for hundreds of miles. Live in the middle of nowhere. Can I still do a 550 or so build? Are there ways around it? Thanks!

 

Anymore, you can make 550 whp by slapping together a completely thrown together build of junkyard engines and ebay parts. There have been so many 'extreme budget' 500-700 whp builds in the last couple of years that if you spend a few minutes looking through this section of the forum you'll have to start wading through them.

91 octane is fine, thats why most of us use water/methanol injection.

 

Friend of mine went bottom 9s at 155 last weekend on a stock l33 with a cam and head studs
S484 at 25psi or so, pump gas and meth

They'll live a while at high boost/power with a good tune, don't need anything special.

 

If you're not looking for crazy numbers, use whatever you already have, combined with whatever stock manifolds fit your application. A simple 2" crossover pipe, eBay wastegate and blow off valve, eBay intercooler, good valve springs and pushrods, some decent ~100# injectors and 340+lph pump. Get a afm/dod delete kit and some 1.85 slp rockers.

The stock truck cam, even with the 1.85 rockers, can use the stock vvt without the phaser limiter and without kissing your pistons. The stock truck cam is also reverse split, and is great for a turbo.

Vvt for driveability and turbo for fun.

You don't need rod bolts or head studs for under 15psi. You don't need a new cam for 500hp. Your truck intake will be absolutely fine, as long as it fits under the hood.

Spend your money where you need to, don't just buy stuff because others did. If your goals are modest, you can do this reliably and relatively cheap. Spend good money for a great tune...

SPEND GOOD MONEY FOR A GREAT TUNE!

If you have the cash, yes, rod bolts and head studs are a very good idea. Especially if you already plan to open up the longblock.

The slp rockers are a good idea because they also have the trunion upgrade. And you can replace them at the same time you replace the valve springs... which is a requirement for boost.

In short:
use the heads/intake/cam you already have,
buy good valve springs/pushrods/rockers,
buy decent injectors/ fuel pump,
stock manifolds/2"-2.5" crossover pipe,
and pay whatever it takes for a badass dyno tune.