Oil pan drain-back fitting?
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From: Rocky Mtn thin air & snow...
Oil pan drain-back fitting? Hi all,
I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for an oil pan drain-back fitting. I currently have the engine out of the car, & since I've just gotten one of these oil pan baffles, I figure there's probably not going to be a better time to add that fitting. (I'm hoping to be able to add a turbocharger within the next couple of years.)
I think that I've narrowed it down to one of three -10AN Fragola fittings, each has a Viton o-ring to help seal the fitting. IIRC, at least two of the three are -10AN to 1/2" NPT, so in theory I should be able to tap the pan for the pipe thread, use a bit of thread sealant, & be good to go, right??
Last question - Am I correct in thinking that I can use a flare cap to cap off the fitting, or should I look for something else?? (I would of course use thread sealant on that as well...)
Appreciate any constructive feedback. It's probably worth noting that I won't be able to reply to this thread until the weekend, but I'm looking forward to the replies, since I'm waiting to place an order for other parts so that I can get the right parts. Thanks guys.
I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for an oil pan drain-back fitting. I currently have the engine out of the car, & since I've just gotten one of these oil pan baffles, I figure there's probably not going to be a better time to add that fitting. (I'm hoping to be able to add a turbocharger within the next couple of years.)
I think that I've narrowed it down to one of three -10AN Fragola fittings, each has a Viton o-ring to help seal the fitting. IIRC, at least two of the three are -10AN to 1/2" NPT, so in theory I should be able to tap the pan for the pipe thread, use a bit of thread sealant, & be good to go, right??
Last question - Am I correct in thinking that I can use a flare cap to cap off the fitting, or should I look for something else?? (I would of course use thread sealant on that as well...)
Appreciate any constructive feedback. It's probably worth noting that I won't be able to reply to this thread until the weekend, but I'm looking forward to the replies, since I'm waiting to place an order for other parts so that I can get the right parts. Thanks guys.
AN fittings don't need any sealant.
I would suggest tapping the pan where you want it, and then getting the fitting welded in. This will make it easier to remove a drain line in the future.
I would suggest tapping the pan where you want it, and then getting the fitting welded in. This will make it easier to remove a drain line in the future.
If you're going to use the pan for a return, I agree with STEEPSS; welding a fitting is the way to go. Personally, I like to use the timing chain cover for oil return setups.
Im running a -12 drain line.
You can drill and tap the pan for NPT threads and run a NPT x AN adapter. I did that, then eventually removed the pan and welded a fitting in when i swapped k members.
On NPT threads, you do need to use sealant. The AN side of the fitting does not require sealant because it seals on a flare.
You can also use a bulkhead fitting designed for a fuel cell.
Neither leaked.
You can drill and tap the pan for NPT threads and run a NPT x AN adapter. I did that, then eventually removed the pan and welded a fitting in when i swapped k members.
On NPT threads, you do need to use sealant. The AN side of the fitting does not require sealant because it seals on a flare.
You can also use a bulkhead fitting designed for a fuel cell.
Neither leaked.
I put mine in before ever having the engine installed in the car. My drain hose interfered with the engine mount and frame stand and I was unable to implement the drain line exactly as I wanted.
So that's something that needs to be considered.
Ron
So that's something that needs to be considered.
Ron
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So Ron, are you saying the timing cover is the better choice or to wait until the motor is back in the car?
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