prepping ls1 for boost. what else should i do?
1. Brake booster. do I need to add a 1 way check valve? from my understanding booster works on vacuum and may be damage under boost?
2. plug the egr port on 98 ls1 intake.
3. add catch can and add a 1 way check valve on "dirty side" feed the "clean" to turbo filter.
4. how to secure the connection where the brake booster connect to intake manifold? mine you can turn less than 1/4 or a circle and feels loose. how do i boost prof this?
any others that i need to worry about / convert?
1. Brake booster. do I need to add a 1 way check valve? from my understanding booster works on vacuum and may be damage under boost?
2. plug the egr port on 98 ls1 intake.
3. add catch can and add a 1 way check valve on "dirty side" feed the "clean" to turbo filter.
4. how to secure the connection where the brake booster connect to intake manifold? mine you can turn less than 1/4 or a circle and feels loose. how do i boost prof this?
any others that i need to worry about / convert?
2.) Yes plug the EGR.
3.) Catch can is a good idea. Some use it as a crank case vent. In that case you don’t need a check valve. If your plumbing it back onto your intake to pull a vac at idle/cruise then you need a check valve.
4.) Are you talking about the barb insert on the back on the intake? I used structural silicon sealant around this. Then used push lock hose with a snug zip-tie to secure it. You don’t want to damage this piece. It is not sold separately by GM. You’d need to buy a new manifold to replace it. I pressure tested my whole system to 25psi with shop air and soapy water. I had no leaks in those areas.
you don't need to plug egr hole unless you are removing egr.
you need a check valve or checking pcv valve between intake manifold and crankcase, so that you don't put boost into the crankcase. Also you will need to relocate the fresh air inlet from the top of throttle body (plug or cap this), to in front of the compressor.
a catch can is not required for forced induction, but always a good idea, especially as hp increases so does blow-by that you will need to manage.
you don't need to plug egr hole unless you are removing egr.
you need a check valve or checking pcv valve between intake manifold and crankcase, so that you don't put boost into the crankcase. Also you will need to relocate the fresh air inlet from the top of throttle body (plug or cap this), to in front of the compressor.
a catch can is not required for forced induction, but always a good idea, especially as hp increases so does blow-by that you will need to manage.
ok thanks.
and yes im planning on a "closed" system.im not understanding how this system would still be able to build pressure at below 20 psi.
the clean side will become the "dirty side" and pull air using the turbo under boost. so essentially the crankcase will always have a "vent" when in boost and when in vacuum.
2.) Yes plug the EGR.
3.) Catch can is a good idea. Some use it as a crank case vent. In that case you don’t need a check valve. If your plumbing it back onto your intake to pull a vac at idle/cruise then you need a check valve.
4.) Are you talking about the barb insert on the back on the intake? I used structural silicon sealant around this. Then used push lock hose with a snug zip-tie to secure it. You don’t want to damage this piece. It is not sold separately by GM. You’d need to buy a new manifold to replace it. I pressure tested my whole system to 25psi with shop air and soapy water. I had no leaks in those areas.
yes the back piece. im talking about where the red arrow is pointing. i think thats what your discribing. how did you removed it?
id like to clean it up before sealing it all up.
i want to be able to pressure test for atleast 20psi ideally 25psi.
but in reality i will be running only around 12-15psi.
i wont be worried about emissions. my custom install turbo wont be legal so im ditching anything i dont need.
sometimes a single line going to a restrictive catch can, and or coming from a restrictive fitting /too small fitting on the engine, is not enough flow. you will know it the first time you blow out the dipstick (or rear main seal)









