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Subscribed. I love how you are doing a mini how to on everything as well. I'm going with a similar build but am going manual rack so there should be no issue at all with power steering lines being in the way. Keep up the great work!
Hey guys, okay so I made some more progress over the last two weekends. I'll admit it's becoming more difficult to get out to the garage with Christmas closing in so fast lol. So I got the hotside wrapped but not the down pipe as I still need to add the bung for my AFR gauge. Wrapping the hotside is a piece of cake btw. Wrap the hot pipe first and when you have it covered leave 3-4" extra hanging and I'll explain why in a minute. Remove the wrap and toss it into a bowl of water and let it soak for a minute. Then wrap the hotside pulling the wrap very tightly. for some reason the wrap will be a little shorter when wet than when you wrapped it dry, at least it was for me. It still covered the hotside well enough I just would have liked a little more. Let it sit for a few days and install.
I also got the oil feed fitting installed in the galley cap. Also a piece of cake, simply drill out the bottom of the hole and tap. The hole in the cap is already the perfect size for the 3/8 NPT tap and goes really easy despite being aluminum. I'll bolt up the hotside for the last time and fab oil lines next time.
Hey guys, so this time around I got the hotside installed for the last time and fabbed up oil feed and return lines. Last weekend we wrapped the hotside so this weekend I bolted it up but there is a specific way to do this. I used a little aluminum silicone on the flange gaskets for good measure and to prevent exhaust leaks. So bolt the driver side up and leave it a little loose at the flange. Slide the vband onto the passenger side pipe and install the pipe also leaving it a little loose at the flange. Hook up your flanges at the vband joint and tighten up your vband first. Then tighten up your flanges and your all set. If you do the vband last it wont bring the two together and seal. This really is a nice kit and the fitment is excellent.
Cant wait to see what you come up with to retain sway bar. Im in the same dilemma. Already started loosing sleep over it.
No worries SVG210, I heard from the gentleman who posted about the sway bar fix and he's gonna send me some pics to my phone. I guarantee I will share them and if I don't get them I have a few ideas to try that I will also share!
Okay so I built the oil lines and that was also quite easy but there are some suggestions I can make to help save time and perhaps make draining a little better. I tapped the pan a few weeks ago but in retro spec I should have done a little more mock up first. I think the fitting is placed a little higher than it needs to be but not enough to cause a problem I think. I would have liked to have had a little more grade in it because it's pretty flat but I think it'll be okay. (Hopefully someone will chime in and agree lol) I used Jeg's brand push lock hose for the feed and return lines. I've used this brand in the past for fuel lines that saw 60psi and this stuff is good to 250psi so I felt comfortable with it, that and I hate building steel braided lines... So my feed is a -4 and my return is a -10. I used a 90' fitting on each end of the return, and a 90' and straight for the feed. The return line must not go uphill and ine runs flat with a slight grade. If it has to go uphill at all you'll have trouble with oil backing up in the turbo and that's bad umkay. Also make sure you have the complete hotside in when fabbing oil lines. It would suck to make lines only to find out they crash into the downpipe when it's installed. As you can see the lines are quite close to the hotside parts so some kind of shielding will be needed. I'm looking at some DEI products now and will let you know how it turns out. The push locks are easy to assemble with a little oil and I like the clean look. So hopefully next weekend I'll get the fans installed, my alternator relocation completed and downpipe bung added and wrapped. See you then!
Last edited by Black_Sunshine_99; Dec 17, 2014 at 03:04 PM.
When I did mine I used Stainless Braided hose not just because it looks purty but also because it tends to hold form better and not kink. I had to get a funky bend in it to avoid it hitting the crank pulley and any of the exhaust components or rubbing anywhere. It doesn't make contact anywhere from the drain to the pan and is a good distance away in case something were to move. Your drain is in the perfect spot also on the pan. I took mine out and filled it with water before it was drilled and tapped just to make sure I wouldn't have any unwanted oil trying to get back in there. You probably have a 1/8 - 1/4 max drop back into the pan when filling with 6 quarts.
You might need to use a reducer on the feed side, not sure if you have one already in place. I have the same turbo (Turbonetics 7675) and even with their filter/reducer in there and a 5/8 drain hose I would slowly start getting smoke out on long WOT runs. I know they say not to use one unless you exceed 80 psi but I can say with 90% certainty I was, hard to watch a gauge when you are moving that fast.
Lots on here running them also on the cars and the BB doesn't seem to need a whole lot to keep happy. Ran it hard for 4 months during the summer and no issues. Checked for any play in it after I put the car away and turbine is as solid as it was the day I got it.
How is the routing for your power steering? I remember mine were closer then I had liked so I ended up getting new ones made.
Hola Rawr256, thank you for confirming the drain bung location as good! I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little concerned lol. Now I worried about the drain line drooping! The drain line actually makes the bend around the hotside and goes straight back along the side of the engine to the drain thank god. I'm in the air about the restrictor though. I almost feel like I'd rather have a little smoke than burn up a turbo? At temp I've only ever seen around 60psi oil pressure w/ 5W-30 Ams Oil but if you think it'd still be a good idea I'll definetly reconsider. How bad of a droop are we talking? Causing oil drain issues bad?
I'm not really happy with the P/S lines but I can't afford to have ones made so I carefully bent them around and out of the way. By shortening a few hoses and bending hard lines I got them to follow the edge of the block and next to the relocated belt tensioner. They're plenty far away from the hotside which is good. I will get custom ones made in the future for a cleaner look but I think for now they'll work.
Thank you for the input and feedback too brother! This is my first FI build so I'm very open to advice from the guy's who've been there already!
Subscribed. I love how you are doing a mini how to on everything as well. I'm going with a similar build but am going manual rack so there should be no issue at all with power steering lines being in the way. Keep up the great work!
I got PS lines made locally that ended up being ~$60 or so that drop right down.
As long as there is a slight slope the whole way with the drain line you should be fine. Is hard to gauge from the pictures but looks like it has a good drop in it.
Can see what happens with the oil drain and smoke. Ball bearing doesn't take much to keep it lubed from everything I read. Seemed the general consensus from what I read was many of thrown them on with a ball bearing turbo and never had any downsides with the reducer.
If it were a journal I would tend to want more oil.
Any questions let me know. I have pretty much the same thing on my car and love it.
Sweet, I'll find a reducer and go that route then. Do you have an A4 or M6? Does your exhaust go all the way to the back bumper too? Also how many lbs are you running? The spring in my wastegate is a 10lbs spring so I was thinking of leaving it and seeing what it makes, if I can ever scrape together the cash to put it on a dyno lol.
No worries SVG210, I heard from the gentleman who posted about the sway bar fix and he's gonna send me some pics to my phone. I guarantee I will share them and if I don't get them I have a few ideas to try that I will also share!
Sweet, I'll find a reducer and go that route then. Do you have an A4 or M6? Does your exhaust go all the way to the back bumper too? Also how many lbs are you running? The spring in my wastegate is a 10lbs spring so I was thinking of leaving it and seeing what it makes, if I can ever scrape together the cash to put it on a dyno lol.
I've got an M6. The On3 BOV came with a 5# spring in it. With the manual boost controller I got it up to 8# on the dyno before I started having fuel delivery issues and backed off of it. Exhaust runs the full length of the car lowered on bmr springs. Exhaust scrapes pretty easily but nothing I'm to worried about. Is a lot quieter with the turbo on then running through the exhaust with the cam.
I've got an M6. The On3 BOV came with a 5# spring in it. With the manual boost controller I got it up to 8# on the dyno before I started having fuel delivery issues and backed off of it. Exhaust runs the full length of the car lowered on bmr springs. Exhaust scrapes pretty easily but nothing I'm to worried about. Is a lot quieter with the turbo on then running through the exhaust with the cam.
Hey rawr, I pulled the oil feed fitting. Is this considered a reducer?
Actually it should be something that screws into that fitting or the turbo. I snagged up something like this and used the biggest port that came in the kit. Don't remember which exactly I had but want to say it was cheaper then this.
It is the fitting that was in the turbo w/ the filter. Garret recommends about a .060" hole for bb oiling. I don't have my dial calipers handy but it looks a little on the large side. I'd like to keep the filter inlet too. There are some $9 ones on eBay that I may pick up.
Last edited by Black_Sunshine_99; Dec 20, 2014 at 11:21 AM.
I ran the fitting into the filter inlet, didn't replace the fitting itself. In the very least I would run it with just the filter fitting in there and after you drive it you can decide. I at first had a 1/2 drain and saw lots of smoke anytime I had boost, threw in a 5/8 and it went away until until it a good bit. Threw on the reducer and never saw any again.
My dad works with Hydraulics and he mentioned unless it is some special type of bearing setup he doesn't see why it would need as much oil as it was getting from the 1/8 fitting. His best guess was just because the journal bearing is used in the same housing with the same fitting so they just went that route.
I was probably in the same boat as you, first turbo and don't want to ruin it, but went with Turbonetics because I knew if I ruined it somehow, they would most likely warranty it and I wouldn't be out $1500+ to start over again.
Like mentioned, the very least you could do is at least have the fitting on hand in case you have issues. It only takes about 2 minutes to throw the fitting in once it's all together.
Cool. Thanks rawr! I'll just pick one up. If you use the same turbo and had issues I don't see why mine'd be any different.
The only thing that could be different is the turbo could sit higher/closer with Huron's kit vs the On3 kit. The on3 kit seemed to arch down further for the sway bar clearance with the kit so it could have had a more linear drain compared to Huron's having a larger drop if that makes sense.
Like I said I would just order one now and keep it on hand and can try it without. If you get the smoke throw in the largest orifice reducer you got and run with it. Shouldn't have to screw around with dropping it down any further really. I haven't had issues going from a stand still to ~140 WOT.
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The drain line actually makes the bend around the hotside and goes straight back along the side of the engine to the drain thank god. I'm in the air about the restrictor though. I almost feel like I'd rather have a little smoke than burn up a turbo? At temp I've only ever seen around 60psi oil pressure w/ 5W-30 Ams Oil but if you think it'd still be a good idea I'll definetly reconsider. How bad of a droop are we talking? Causing oil drain issues bad? 
