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So this just happened lol. I got a pretty rippin deal on a nearly new Turbonetics T7875 and another gentleman wanted my TC7868 so I made the deal. The housing is a bit bigger but I think I can shoe horn this Betty in. I've included pics of both in case some one was curious on the size difference since I didn't really know there was one lol. I'll see if I can get it in this weekend!
So I finally got this little ***** mounted in the car lol.
I ended up having to do a significant amount cutting to the underside of the top core support so the AC condenser would tuck up completely under the core support.
I also had to cut the post off the bottom of the radiator and install a small piece of 1"x1" angle steel to move the bottom of the radiator forward.
All this enabled me to get the radiator to not hit the turbo, reassembly is a different story, kinda like putting together a puzzle lol.
But as you can see it fits.
So once the install was completed I had fueling issues with running lean at WOT.
Turns out the T7875 moves alot more air than the TC7868 did even at the same boost level.
My tuner (the venerable Pat G) upped the IDC a couple times but no change occurred so we surmised my single 255 was out of breath.
After some research mostly guided by a very small budget I decided to add another 255 on a Hobbs to my stock bucket and see if that would work.
A pretty simple arrangement that solved my fueling issues so far.
This T7875 is a bad boy for sure, turbine howls like a bastard and pulls harder than the TC7868 did at 11lbs.
The goal is to get it on the dyno next spring and see what she can do but as for right now data logs are no longer done in 4th gear because its a little too hairy on the street at that speed lol.
Overall much happier with this turbo as now the car feels like it should with power pulling through 6,000 rpm strong.
Stay tuned because next we're gonna start prepping a Gen IV LM7 5.3 I picked up for boost!
All the boost...
Hey fellas, its been a productive winter/fall thus far.
After I figured my fueling problem I turned to a couple other minor issues I was having.
When driving the car for extended periods while beating on it I noticed my oil pressure would take a hit and during the hot summer we had it really took a hit.
After sitting and cooling though it would always come right back, if I drove normally my pressure remained at normal levels.
I deduced that my oil was getting heated up and thinning out, of course I have no data to back this up just what my gauge was telling me.
I picked up this eBay cooler kit after much searching and installed it with a 180 thermostatic switch for the fan mounted to it.
I fabbed up a bracket and mounted it to the bottom passenger side of the car.
I've been told that my oil temps shouldn't be an issue but we will see if this guy will help.
After completion of the oil cooler I came across a lightly used set of 4 series 3.73 gears for a price I couldn't pass on, free!
I had been wanting to raise the gear ratio since I knew my 4.10's weren't optimal for a turbo car, fun but not optimal.
Since I have a 4 series Detroit locker my options were few and these came along at just the right time.
After slamming in some new bearings, seals and setting the tolerances no more gear whine and hopefully it'll load the turbo a bit better.
While not turbo related I did have the dreaded tilt column sloppiness that is so common with these cars.
After pulling down the column still in the car I reached the bolts that some say come loose and will remedy the problem by tightening them.
The bolts were tight which meant I had to go deeper.
After essentially stripping down the entire column I found that the tilt pins had backed out and egged out the housing holes in the column...bummer.
At this point new housings were going to run me almost $600 which was not an option, there were over-sized tilt pins but there was a gamble that the hole was already bigger than the new pins plus the new pins were $60 so that was out.
I found a thread on here where a bushing is sourced and fitted into the housing to fix the problem.
I found the bushings at a local hardware company for $4.00, carefully drilled out the housing, carefully pressed in the new bushing, then filed the bushing to the proper shape and length.
Success!
Once back together the column is good as new and only cost me a few bucks, I'd be happy to answer any questions surrounding this repair since I know its very prevalent and intimidating.
Cheers!
While not totally turbo related I finally acquired a Sonoco style hood for my car and painted it! (this is important because every hood I've purchased I've never painted lol)
Ever since I saw the Sonoco Donahue themed 4th Gen I knew I wanted one.
So a good friend of mine didn't want his any more and made me a killer deal.
For those who are avoiding aftermarket hoods because of the cost of paint supplies a friend of mine had a suggestion that I used here and turned out really good.
Prep the hood with some 500 grit wet sand paper until the whole hood is super smooth, then have your local Maaco shop paint it!
They painted this hood for me with the expensive pearl Pewter color for $268.00 with tax, otherwise this wouldn't have happened.
I'm hoping this will help get some of the heat out of the engine bay as well.
I've also got some 80 lb. injectors on the way and the 10 lb. spring is going back in so I'm hoping to have some dyno numbers later this spring.
I'll be back...
Last edited by The BallSS; 04-26-2017 at 11:05 AM.
New upgrade!!
So after constantly replacing failing factory alternators I stumbled upon a post on here on the forum for a fix.
I've replaced four factory style alternators in three years, luckily I bought the Autozone Gold with the lifetime warranty so I just swapped them out but the fear was always there it would fail on a road trip or when I was farthest from home.
The fix is this truck alternator from a 2005 Cadillac Escalade, 145 amp output and utilizes the factory mounting points.
This guy literally bolted right in, same connector and everything.
The voltage output is far steadier than the factory alternator so if your like me and running Derale radiator fans, oil cooler fan, dual fuel pumps and a high powered stereo this upgrade is a must, plus its cheaper than a factory style alternator lol.
Cheers!
I just did the same alternator upgrade on my car with the CBR alternator relocation kit. Its close around the oil fill but like you said, a much much better unit. I'll never recommend a stock alt again.
I just did the same alternator upgrade on my car with the CBR alternator relocation kit. Its close around the oil fill but like you said, a much much better unit. I'll never recommend a stock alt again.
Exactly, its really close to the oil fill but a little twist on it and its good.
I'm using the Huron Speed relocation kit that came with my hot side.
The plastic on the back side of the alternator slightly contacts the cylinder head but not enough to worry about.
I'd recommend anyone running anything other than factory accessories upgrading to one of these.
Exactly, its really close to the oil fill but a little twist on it and its good.
I'm using the Huron Speed relocation kit that came with my hot side.
The plastic on the back side of the alternator slightly contacts the cylinder head but not enough to worry about.
I'd recommend anyone running anything other than factory accessories upgrading to one of these.
I suggest it to even stock guys. Mine fit just fine in the stock fbody location as well except I had to trim the plastic housing a little because I have the CBR power steering lines which have a little larger fittings at the rack than stock. Otherwise it fit perfect with a stock belt.
I suggest it to even stock guys. Mine fit just fine in the stock fbody location as well except I had to trim the plastic housing a little because I have the CBR power steering lines which have a little larger fittings at the rack than stock. Otherwise it fit perfect with a stock belt.
does it have to be from a 2005 or any escalade alternator would work in the stock location?
does it have to be from a 2005 or any escalade alternator would work in the stock location?
I'm not sure if there is a year or engine size cutoff. When I looked on autozone's website it showed me the different choices and below each one it showed its power output rating and just went with that.
*edit I picked mine by searching for a 2002 Silverado 2500hd 6.0 though. If you search through some threads on here I believe you can find the RPO code needed for the bigger one and then compare that in your search if you are buying used.
I'm not sure if there is a year or engine size cutoff. When I looked on autozone's website it showed me the different choices and below each one it showed its power output rating and just went with that.
*edit I picked mine by searching for a 2002 Silverado 2500hd 6.0 though. If you search through some threads on here I believe you can find the RPO code needed for the bigger one and then compare that in your search if you are buying used.
does it have to be from a 2005 or any escalade alternator would work in the stock location?
The Escalade has the higher amp version at 145 amps output.
Just make sure which ever you get has the higher amp output. Also be aware if you have cruise control, the plastic connector for the cable that snaps onto the throttle body lever will actually hook on the alternator case if its loose and hang the throttle open.
Talk about making my ******* pucker...
I haven't found a remedy for this yet but once I do I'll report back.
Hello friends and welcome back!
So after street racing the **** out of the car all summer I've ran into a new road block.
I upped the boost level from 6 lbs. 12 lbs. and subsequently blew my oil dipstick out and puked oil everywhere.
Why you may ask?
Well my PCV system was way over matched, I had integrated my MM PCV can into my stock 3/8" system and it couldn't keep up anymore.
It was pushing oil and air out of every opening and was making quite a mess.
The solution?
After conferring with David at MM I added -12AN fittings to my driver side valve cover and to my older style MM Catch Can.
I also relocated the can to the front of the car right behind my I/C to help shorten the hose lengths and clean up the appearance.
I'm hoping this will cure my crank case pressure woes and hopefully make an up coming dyno day for some long awaited results.
Moral of the story is this, research what you need for a breather system and go one step farther (bigger hose, extra can, etc.) you'll be money ahead in the long run and luckily for me avoid a potential fire hazard.
God bless!
My 98 Z28 is Procharged and since install never could use the AC much due to poor air flow with the AC attached to the front of the radiator. Forget using the ac when the temps here in KS are over 100 degrees.
So I moved the AC condenser into the front bumper cover behind the FMIC.
Now no overheating issues and AC works better too because of the two 14 inch pusher fans mounted to the front of the condenser. With the ac condenser removed off of the face of the radiator, it now get a clean shot of air up from the air dam. The fmic and ac condenser get air from the opening in the Camaro front bumper cover with assist from two Spal pusher fans on the condenser.
My 98 Z28 is Procharged and since install never could use the AC much due to poor air flow with the AC attached to the front of the radiator. Forget using the ac when the temps here in KS are over 100 degrees.
So I moved the AC condenser into the front bumper cover behind the FMIC.
Now no overheating issues and AC works better too because of the two 12 inch pusher fans mounted to the front of the condenser. With the ac condenser removed off of the face of the radiator, it now get a clean shot of air up from the air dam. The fmic and ac condenser get air from the opening in the Camaro front bumper cover with assist from two Spal pusher fans on the condenser.
That's cool but I have a big *** BeCool radiator that keeps the temps in check.
What does this have to do with PCV system?
My reply has nothing to do with the PCV system.
I was replying to the very first sentence of your post and subject of your post.
For others who might do this and who want to keep their ac system, you don't have to hack the front end of the radiator support to keep your ac. Simply move the condenser into the front bumper cover.
There is room there for a 28 X 16 AC condenser (larger than the stock condenser), 4 inch intercooler, alky control pump and tank, trans cooler, and small washer tank.
The only major modification is cutting the front bumper cover and adding some length to the ac lines.
I was replying to the very first sentence of your post and subject of your post.
For others who might do this and who want to keep their ac system, you don't have to hack the front end of the radiator support to keep your ac. Simply move the condenser into the front bumper cover.
There is room there for a 28 X 16 AC condenser (larger than the stock condenser), 4 inch intercooler, alky control pump and tank, trans cooler, and small washer tank.
The only major modification is cutting the front bumper cover and adding some length to the ac lines.
So are you running four fans then, two on the condenser and two on the radiator?
Where did you source the condenser and what did having lines made cost?
08-01-2016, 06:18 PM
