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What should I expect going from man pedal to auto

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Old 10-31-2014, 01:39 PM
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Default What should I expect going from man pedal to auto

I've finally swallowed the jagged pill and decided to go automatic. My setup now works. I've got a clutch that hold, the Tick TR6060 trans, it works awesome. Car runs high 9's at 10-11 psi (data logged) through the exhaust, no 2 step just a 6800 rpm clutch dump. 1.43 60' with a 141.x mph. 4000 lbs car.
So I've decided to put a TH400 in it. At the same boost level what can I expect? Everyone says auto so....
Old 10-31-2014, 01:59 PM
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When you clutch drop it, does it leave on boost?
Old 10-31-2014, 02:02 PM
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Data log showed 5-6 psi at launch.
Old 10-31-2014, 02:09 PM
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Where you using a 2 step?

There is a few variables. With the correct spec'd converter and trans brake you can leave in the boost and it should pull a similar sixty. Maybe a bit better, maybe a bit worse. Also remember each time you shift it takes 1 to 2 tenths of a sec. It will be more consistent over a manual.

"I out shifted that automatic" - said no one ever.
Old 10-31-2014, 02:14 PM
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in a trans am? why not go 80e and a good converter
then install the stock auto shifter console and setup the computer to shift, lock, and have overdrive
Old 10-31-2014, 02:14 PM
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No 2 step. Just drove it like it was N/A. I've got AFCO shocks out back. I should have no trouble repeating the 60' with an auto like you pointed out, if all is right.
Old 10-31-2014, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000RATA
No 2 step. Just drove it like it was N/A. I've got AFCO shocks out back. I should have no trouble repeating the 60' with an auto like you pointed out, if all is right.
So in theory it should be faster.
Old 10-31-2014, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by denmah
in a trans am? why not go 80e and a good converter
then install the stock auto shifter console and setup the computer to shift, lock, and have overdrive
I would but that requires modification to the trans tunnel. The TH400 is a direct swap and I don't have to mess anything up to go back to stick.
Old 10-31-2014, 02:46 PM
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4l80e trans mod is you just need to make room for the plug. 5 min job at most.

I have a 4l80 in mine and just have to cut or hammer the area that sticks out there
Old 10-31-2014, 03:03 PM
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Its not gonna mph the same that I'd put the money on.
Old 10-31-2014, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc
Its not gonna mph the same that I'd put the money on.
I wouldn't expect the mph to be the same. Not with a mechanical lock (clutch) vs. a hydraulic lock (converter and no lock up) but how about et? I read guys making the change but they don't seem to post results.
Old 10-31-2014, 04:52 PM
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Your et looks decent for mph and 60. I doubt it will be a huge difference on the same power unless you really improve the 60ft imo

The manual is working for you. I'd keep it
Old 10-31-2014, 05:00 PM
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You'll run faster with the built auto.
Old 10-31-2014, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc
Your et looks decent for mph and 60. I doubt it will be a huge difference on the same power unless you really improve the 60ft imo

The manual is working for you. I'd keep it
That's what I was afraid of is same 60' would yield very similar results. I'm getting talked into an auto. Seems the consensus is the auto is easier on the car.
I had been thinking put a wide open throttle box and a 2 step on then leave on 10 lbs boost. I feel that's all it will hook.
My considering the auto is also coupled with I will switch to an aftermarket computer for engine, boost, 2 step and all the other control they provide. I need more boost control which is why I only have low boost ET numbers. I just got AFCO shocks on the rear and I have only made 2 passes with them. I'm sure I need to work with them more.
Old 11-01-2014, 01:27 AM
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I agree with rotary, it works, keep it. You can imorove on those times, maybe not go 8's like an auto(better chance at least), but it will be more fun. I love that you car is a stick, it gives it a cool factor.
Old 11-01-2014, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by DEFYANT
I agree with rotary, it works, keep it. You can imorove on those times, maybe not go 8's like an auto(better chance at least), but it will be more fun. I love that you car is a stick, it gives it a cool factor.

^^^ This
Old 11-01-2014, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by oscs
^^^ This
Thanks guys. I love driving the stick shift. I see a low 9 (9.20's-9.30's) pass with this but not likely an 8. And that's turning the boost up getting a couple other things in order, dropping the exhaust, pull the air cleaners and piping, and so on. The problems are pig heavy car, and 26" tire. The 28" slick rubs my wheel openings front and back. Seems like the right boost control (progressive) with an auto would get the job done.
Old 11-02-2014, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 01Z28Camaro
In my case I was running 10.44 over and over with a 1.47 - 1.50 60 foot leaving at around 7000 rpms. Trapped 131 - 132, car was consistent but broke drive line stuff non stop.

Went to a built th400 with transbrake with a b&m pro ratchet shifter. It's a nice setup, Was fun to drive still. I then ran consistent 10.39 - 10.41 with a 1.37 - 1.39 60 foot while leaving at 4500 rpms. My trap speed dropped to 128 mph, the car didn't stay hooked up as easy as it did with the 6 speed. Going into second gear it wanted to spin most of the time.
This is what I'm afraid of. Your a whole .10+ quicker at 60' but your really not much quicker ET (and the quicker 60' time should have shown more in ET)and mph is down. Only up side is your not breaking parts. However it sounds like some rear shock adjustments would have fixed what I read is a 1st to 2nd gear shift wiggle. Gotta be suspension setting for an auto to do that.
Old 11-02-2014, 05:59 PM
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These might be unusual results, but check this out:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...4l80-swap.html
Old 11-02-2014, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000RATA
Thanks guys. I love driving the stick shift. I see a low 9 (9.20's-9.30's) pass with this but not likely an 8. And that's turning the boost up getting a couple other things in order, dropping the exhaust, pull the air cleaners and piping, and so on. The problems are pig heavy car, and 26" tire. The 28" slick rubs my wheel openings front and back. Seems like the right boost control (progressive) with an auto would get the job done.
I think you should start with what you know can be/needs to be improved first. Swapping from a 6spd to auto isn't exactly an overnight thing.


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