Mounted the alternator down low and backwards due to lack of space, running it with a 4 rib belt off the ac grooves on the balancer to keep it close to the engine.

Made a overhead switch panel to control everything on the car, it's just a $8 electronics project box that runs 24 gauge wire down to the relay panel

The relay panel, It's a nylon cutting board that I mounted everything on, there is stuff mounted on both sides and you can see the MS3pro mounted to the floor.

Decided on 275 radial pro's for the car for now. I have a set of 15x12 wheels on order but I decided to try these out for now, these cars are so small that I had to open up the wheel well just to fit a 28'' tall tire.


That's it for now, thanks for looking

 

Amazing progress! What is the basic difference (if anything about those rules is basic) between a 6.0 chassis and a 7.50 chassis?

 

"Ricky Bobby" mode FTW!!!!

 

A 25.1 (6.0)(like mine) and a 25.5 (7.50)are the same tube sizes the only real difference is the weight. I could dual cert this car so that it would be good for both if I had to race the at 3000lbs but I have no idea how I would add 700lbs to get there.

 

Thanks!

 

Maybe another LS motor under the hatch?

 

I'm alittle behind but I have got some stuff done. Got the 24" front runners mounted, still need to raise the rear a bit.

Got the front and rear wheel speed sensors setup, the rear runs off the back of the studs and the front runs off a trigger wheel I had made.




Got the viking double adjustables on the front too, same fitment as a 70's dodge dart.

 

Here is a quick video of it running.

 

Awesome! Should be a little quicker than the Pinto.

 

i love that home made reluctor ring on the rotor lol

 

I just can't wait for this to be done! I followed your Pinto on Turboford. Great workmanship there too.

 

Such a cool project man, good job!

Can the MS run high and low imp injectors simultaneously or they're all low imp?

 

Sounds GREAT!

 

The primary injectors are high and the secondarys are low and run thru a AEM injecor driver. MS can only run high directly.

 

Awesome progress!

FWIW I know a few people that run secondary low-Z injectors directly from the MS. The danger is overheating the drivers. Which isn’t really an issue when they are only active for a few seconds during a run or street pull.

 

I used to run four low-Z injectors in two banks of two from MS on my daily driver. No problem with that. Maybe the extra current from another four would cause an issue?

 

I think it depends on the injector, I know the bosch white/green top 160's aren't really low or high they are around 5 ohms so I'm sure you could get away without a driver box. It probably only matters when you get into the really high duty cycles where the injector is on most of the time

 

I believe it boils down to heat. Running a low-Z Injector for long periods of time with a hi-Z driver will overheat/fry it. You *shouldn’t* overheat the drivers, even at 100% DC if they are only active for a few seconds with any injector. Not that driving them with proper INJ. driver isn’t a better method.

 

OK, i kinda figured/hoping that was the setup. I've been looking into doing this as well. What model AEM inj driver are you using and have you looked into Versafueler?

 

The plastic cutting board won me over.