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What cubic inch is too large?

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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 09:00 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by samdogmx
^^^^ this

and for the bore stroke comment, I would not go bigger than 4" stroke, but with a bigger bore it opens up more cyl head options.
I totally agree with you here. I was looking at the Mozez heads. That was my concern of having a bore to fit so I could run these heads or something similar.

http://www.mastmotorsports.com/view.php?id=353&c=36&s=4
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 09:09 AM
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those are big money heads, way overkill for low8s or highs7s.

I thought you said you wanted to stay with a production block?
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 09:18 AM
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Yea I did. But after reading and searching for a 1500rwhp combo, I might to go aftermarket. But yes the original plan was to stay with a production block.
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 09:32 AM
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And did you find anyone making that kinda power with a production block?

most of us switch to a 6-bolt block way b4 that level.
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by SCott5
What would you do with a 91/94 single? I was going to be looking at a LSX block

I don't mean to piggy back on the OP thread but this question has been in my head for a while as I too am going to be looking to go bigger from my s475/347 setup
It is always best to set a HP goal and work backwards from there when sizing turbos. Where do you need to be?

Jack
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by samdogmx
And did you find anyone making that kinda power with a production block?

most of us switch to a 6-bolt block way b4 that level.
1 or 2 people. Not that many. But I see that some people were pushing stock aluminum blocks to 1100-1200hp, I knew for sure that a iron block could withstand more. But if thats really pushing the limits of the block, I would rather just save up and go aftermarket at that point. I would hate for 2 passes go by and the BOOM then start over again.....
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 10:24 AM
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When pushing an OEM Iron block that far I wouldn’t’ bore it at all. I’ve known many that had problems with cracking on a .030 bore with FI at lower power numbers than you are wanting. No OEM block is going to last many seasons at 1500WHP mark IMO. No reason a properly setup turbo engine needs the extra bore or stroke, just run more boost!

Fill the block. Run methanol, nice heads, and 40+psi. It'll make the numbers semi-reliably...

Last edited by Forcefed86; Dec 30, 2014 at 11:29 AM.
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 10:35 AM
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I agree ^^^^^

stock bore and I definitely would fill the block if I was gonna try to make that much on a production block.
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 01:31 PM
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I like my 370ci a lot. However the next motor I will be building will be a 427ci LSX block. I don't consider that you can go "all-out" and still have 4 bolt heads. My "all-out" will be with a 6 bolt block/head setup.
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 09:34 PM
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everybody is always saying to keep the Cubic inches small....but that is just plain wrong thinking....

More cubic inches always makes more power..PERIOD

the downside, is that you really need to pay attention to material between cylnders...
you really dont want to go bigger than a 4.03 bore or it starts to get kind of thin for boost
its hard to seal a head gasket if theres no meat to seal it with.

dont focus so much on the motor size, focus on how its built and how the exhaust is built to work with the turbos you want to use

a smaller cubic inch motor will want a smaller turbo
a bigger cubic inch motor will want a bigger turbo

same if you go with twins...

Twins are easier to route the downpipes as they are smaller, but they present their own challenges with physical space for the turbos themselves

a single turbo is easier to place, but the bigger down pipe makes exhaust plumbing more limited.(which often leads to fender exit exhaust)


and if somebody tells you it will be laggy...consider why...improper turbo sizing is the cause...not anything from engine size
Turbo A.R matched to the motor is what makes it work...
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 09:33 AM
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I went 4.125 x 3.75 for 400 cu in. Wanted to go with a shorter stroke, but didn't want to wait 3 months for a 3.27" crank shaft. Now that it's taken 7 months to get the heads done, I wish I'd have waited.
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by soundengineer
everybody is always saying to keep the Cubic inches small....but that is just plain wrong thinking....

More cubic inches always makes more power..PERIOD
Well that was my 1st initial thought. But when so many boosted guys say not to do too much ci then you have no choice but to agree with the majority.

But in a lot of classes especially 275, most guys run more than a 400ci. Thats why I was asking in the first place.

But so far im pretty convinced that I will need an aftermarket block, so I might as well get the most ci and best stroke for my app.

But I see the norm always say that "more cubes makes more hp but is not really worth the money". The way I see it for example, if I spend $1k to gain only 25hp, thats still more usable hp IMO.

Correct me if Im wrong, I like learning.....
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 12:48 PM
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I choose a 4.125" bore 4" stroke LSX but im only looking for 1300-1400 crank
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 01:44 PM
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I think if i wanted to go "all out" on a production block a 4.030 bore and 3.900 stroke. Partial fill, 1/2 studs and LSA heads... anything more than that gets into aftermarket parts cost, and why go aftermarket head for deck thickness/sealing and not get 6 bolt, then you need a block to mate.
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 04:50 PM
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People are making 800 on a stock 3 liter, you DONT need to bore your 6liter block .030 of an inch for power, in fact you shouldn't, you want the beefier walls you can get
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 08:39 PM
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ok u can run 24lbs onna 364 or run 16lbs onna 416 and make the same power.. i rather make the same power and have less lag, boost #'s dont matter... HP does, and a 400+ cubic inch will eat 16lbs all day, everyone acts like your gunna have to run the same boost on a larger engine and you need beefier walls, but it doesnt matter especially a stroked motor, keep the beefy walls and more cubic inch and more power.. in the end they all work, but it seems no1 goes over a 427 onna repro block, so i guess that may be considered the biggest to go? Just build exactly what u want to meet your needs, a 4.8 will meet ur needs if you dont care about lag, just depends what you want
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 09:00 PM
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Love reading threads like this..
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 09:08 PM
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I'll keep my crank overlap and CH
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 12:18 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by soundengineer
everybody is always saying to keep the Cubic inches small....but that is just plain wrong thinking....

More cubic inches always makes more power..PERIOD

the downside, is that you really need to pay attention to material between cylnders...
you really dont want to go bigger than a 4.03 bore or it starts to get kind of thin for boost
its hard to seal a head gasket if theres no meat to seal it with.

dont focus so much on the motor size, focus on how its built and how the exhaust is built to work with the turbos you want to use

a smaller cubic inch motor will want a smaller turbo
a bigger cubic inch motor will want a bigger turbo

same if you go with twins...

Twins are easier to route the downpipes as they are smaller, but they present their own challenges with physical space for the turbos themselves

a single turbo is easier to place, but the bigger down pipe makes exhaust plumbing more limited.(which often leads to fender exit exhaust)


and if somebody tells you it will be laggy...consider why...improper turbo sizing is the cause...not anything from engine size
Turbo A.R matched to the motor is what makes it work...
Flame all you want, but I'm agreeing with this guy. If your not class limited on the turbo, build the motor bigger and turbo to suit.
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 02:21 AM
  #40  
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I think a lot of it depends on the type of FI you run. Going with PD blower, Centri, single turbo, or twins?
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