Manley crank and reluctor wheel problem
Manley crank and reluctor wheel problem Anyone have a problem or know why my reluctor keeps kicking sideways ? It happened once and i called manley and they said they never seen it , so i silicon bronze tacked it , and it did it again .. Any ideas ? It had some detonation from my gates pinning from too much co2 , but i cant imagine my crankshaft flexing that much ,, im no expert tho 4.00 stroke in a sleeved 4.125 ls2 , 6.125 rod
Did you reuse the old wheel? They are an interference fit so they need heat to expand, then install, once cooled they contract and hold. If I remember right 350 degrees will expand a couple thousands and enough. Overheating may cause them to not return 100% back when cool. Its easy to overheat since they are so thin. Look at the center if the steel has turned colors, blue or brown, that is a sign it got too hot. I would also never reuse one if it was removed. I think they are like $17 I seen from summit.
I had one do the same thing, it hit the main cap. Unfortunately I was doing about 140mph and the engine was screaming. The wheel moved about 1/8 turn. It was pretty disastrous.
My theory why mine did that is that I had the crank sent out and turned. Crank grinders remove the wheel to grind and clean it. A lot of the older machine shops are just learning about LS stuff, they are excellent machinists and all but I think they reused the old wheel and its interference fit was not 100%. Needs to be installed 100% clean and free of oil and anything, and not overheated. Im probably putting a couple stitches on with a TIG welder now because im paranoid about it happening again.
The steel shouldnt turn any colors heating it, just a faint tan color if anything. if it was heated to 800-900+ I believe it will not retain its original strength once cooled.
I had one do the same thing, it hit the main cap. Unfortunately I was doing about 140mph and the engine was screaming. The wheel moved about 1/8 turn. It was pretty disastrous.
My theory why mine did that is that I had the crank sent out and turned. Crank grinders remove the wheel to grind and clean it. A lot of the older machine shops are just learning about LS stuff, they are excellent machinists and all but I think they reused the old wheel and its interference fit was not 100%. Needs to be installed 100% clean and free of oil and anything, and not overheated. Im probably putting a couple stitches on with a TIG welder now because im paranoid about it happening again.
The steel shouldnt turn any colors heating it, just a faint tan color if anything. if it was heated to 800-900+ I believe it will not retain its original strength once cooled.
Last edited by pwrtrip75; Jan 25, 2015 at 01:08 PM.
I had my lunati crank at 20* and my wheel at 400*. The wheel fell on no interference and had a good 15 seconds until there was interference so you don't have to rush installing it
The CBM billet ring is very nice and probably overdone but I would put it on
Here is where I welded mine, and 180
The CBM billet ring is very nice and probably overdone but I would put it on
Here is where I welded mine, and 180
Rotary1307cc thats a nice piece ! I will look into it... Manley has been pretty cool so far with trying to help me resolve the problem , i will see if they will float the bill for the billet reluctor ,,they have given me parts to freshin my engine up the first time it happened ,bearings ,rings and pins ,,good people , satisfactory parts imo .. Thanks everyone for the advice !!
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Did you reuse the old wheel? They are an interference fit so they need heat to expand, then install, once cooled they contract and hold. If I remember right 350 degrees will expand a couple thousands and enough. Overheating may cause them to not return 100% back when cool. Its easy to overheat since they are so thin. Look at the center if the steel has turned colors, blue or brown, that is a sign it got too hot. I would also never reuse one if it was removed. I think they are like $17 I seen from summit.
I had one do the same thing, it hit the main cap. Unfortunately I was doing about 140mph and the engine was screaming. The wheel moved about 1/8 turn. It was pretty disastrous.
My theory why mine did that is that I had the crank sent out and turned. Crank grinders remove the wheel to grind and clean it. A lot of the older machine shops are just learning about LS stuff, they are excellent machinists and all but I think they reused the old wheel and its interference fit was not 100%. Needs to be installed 100% clean and free of oil and anything, and not overheated. Im probably putting a couple stitches on with a TIG welder now because im paranoid about it happening again.
The steel shouldnt turn any colors heating it, just a faint tan color if anything. if it was heated to 800-900+ I believe it will not retain its original strength once cooled.
I had one do the same thing, it hit the main cap. Unfortunately I was doing about 140mph and the engine was screaming. The wheel moved about 1/8 turn. It was pretty disastrous.
My theory why mine did that is that I had the crank sent out and turned. Crank grinders remove the wheel to grind and clean it. A lot of the older machine shops are just learning about LS stuff, they are excellent machinists and all but I think they reused the old wheel and its interference fit was not 100%. Needs to be installed 100% clean and free of oil and anything, and not overheated. Im probably putting a couple stitches on with a TIG welder now because im paranoid about it happening again.
The steel shouldnt turn any colors heating it, just a faint tan color if anything. if it was heated to 800-900+ I believe it will not retain its original strength once cooled.
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