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1970 caddy sedan deville(sinister) lq4 s475 turbo cam=)

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Old 08-29-2015, 06:54 AM
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Why add the extra weight of a Dana 60? A good 9" will handle what you throw at it, and it can be built with CV joints on the pinion shaft to retain that smoothness. The Dana rears have their pinion gear up high, which might cause issues with your drive line angles due to the low ride height in the rear. A 9" has a much lower pinion position which will help with drive line angles. Food for thought.

Andrew
Old 08-29-2015, 10:14 AM
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Number one reason for the 60 Is its 8 lug, (and do have a late model one from a chevy van, same Era as motor and trans, it just says "big and ridiculous, kinda like whole car lol!
I have thought of the pinion angle (the car does have a low floor) I'm considering using a carrier bearing drive shaft that I have, and the cars factory drive shaft has cv's on both ends.
I'm anticipating problems when it comes that time, I'm gonna fit motor and trans today and am expecting the trans tunnel to give me double tall mans......
Old 08-29-2015, 08:20 PM
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K, update for tonight : changed power steering pump out for a hydroboost unit:

Has two returns insteaded of one
Old 08-29-2015, 08:25 PM
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Also , put another set of steam line tubes on the back of the heads, (for whatever its worth, it's just a set fronts, fits perect )
Old 08-31-2015, 11:56 AM
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Clean install on the crown vic front end swap. Looks like it went relatively easily, judging from the lack of 4-letter expletives in the post detailing the swap.

Suicide doors absolutely get my full and unwavering approval.

Twin turbos... Yeah, that should probably happen after you get everything going.

Dana60 rear, makes as much sense as the rest of it. Lol. Honestly, that fat axle will be right at home under this boat.

I've never been a big fan of "bags", due to witnessing a system fail at highway speeds. But that Cadillac would look killer laying frame.
Old 08-31-2015, 04:02 PM
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Thanks, really the crown vic front needed to happen, glad I did it, the packaging makes more sense, factory ac comprossor can be used no problems, very happy about that, zero play in the steering instead of 2/3 inches lol! Just hope I don't loose too much of "oh sh#t!" Feeling you get with old worn out suspension /steering lol!



Compressor back in action





Downpipe mockup


Old 08-31-2015, 04:26 PM
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Motor mounts I was using when it still had caddy frame, will be modified to still be used
Old 08-31-2015, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by slocaddy
Number one reason for the 60 Is its 8 lug, (and do have a late model one from a chevy van, same Era as motor and trans, it just says "big and ridiculous, kinda like whole car lol!
I have thought of the pinion angle (the car does have a low floor) I'm considering using a carrier bearing drive shaft that I have, and the cars factory drive shaft has cv's on both ends.
I'm anticipating problems when it comes that time, I'm gonna fit motor and trans today and am expecting the trans tunnel to give me double tall mans......
This is the kind of CV shaft I was talking about. It uses Rzeppa style CV joints and not the old double cardan joints that your Caddy had.











Made by The Driveshaft Shop...

Andrew
Old 09-01-2015, 12:19 AM
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Ahh, yea , big difference! That's a really nice peice.
Tonight I played around with moving engine and trans foward, and back, and directly over the top of the crown vic's original location seems best to me, it's also close to original placement of Caddy motor. Right now my rearward tilt angle is 5 degrees, (I understand 3 seems to be "ideal") and can't raise tranny anymore without trans hump /prob tunnel surgery, and can't drop motor any lower into cradle because of oil pan clearance it's the gm "hot rod" pan



Not a great pic, but as you can see, quite a bit of bell housing.
Old 09-02-2015, 11:36 PM
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Well tonight's update is I modified the the motor mounts, ready to be welded and repainted,


I'm moving all the wires from the pass side, to driver side since all my hot side turbo stuff will be on pass side, witch I think is actually only 7/8 wires going to be used, most of witch is for the lighting on the pass side lol! Anyway I'll have that wrapped up tomarrow night, I'll just set aside the ones that will go to new harness.



Also, I gave the tranny tunnel some lovin' tonight......ok, ALOT of lovin!, I call this the "how to fit a 4l80e in your 1970 cadillac mod" that prob no one will ever do.......
Anyway, I spent about 20 mins "massaging" with the air hammer, about 10 lbs of undercoating and dirt and oil/tranny fluid and 40+ years of only God knows what was falling off the bottom and don't think I'll have anymore tight spots around tranny lol!
Old 09-02-2015, 11:41 PM
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Also got this in the mail today, I like to mount directly to the truck rails if there's enough room, we shall see
Old 09-03-2015, 10:01 AM
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Due to the graphic and violent nature of the "how to fit a 4l80e in your 1970 Cadillac mod", viewer discretion is advised.

It's good to see progress is being made. Keep it up. I love this car.
Old 09-03-2015, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by slocaddy
Also got this in the mail today, I like to mount directly to the truck rails if there's enough room, we shall see
I would not mount that to the rail. That regulator weighs quite a bit and you don't want it hanging off the rail.

Andrew
Old 09-03-2015, 03:26 PM
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Yea, I have to say in certain circles, the "tunnel mod" may be a bit "brutal" by some, but it just started moving so easy, and I just got trigger happy lol, now there's so much more room for activities!
Old 09-03-2015, 03:41 PM
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I was thinking of making a bracket that used the bolt that holds the fuel rails down for support, or maybe one of the holes on the back of the head, and then there's the good ol' firewall
Old 09-03-2015, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by slocaddy
I was thinking of making a bracket that used the bolt that holds the fuel rails down for support, or maybe one of the holes on the back of the head, and then there's the good ol' firewall
A nice bracket off the back of the head would work well. Also keep in mind that you want to keep the number of 90 degree fittings to a minimum. Even the best soft bend 90 degree fittings will introduce some restriction in flow.

As for the tunnel, nicely done. Scuff it, degree it, rattle can it, and forget about it.

Andrew
Old 09-07-2015, 01:13 AM
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I've been spending more time ordering stuff and cringing, but I did end up getting a 60 mm jgs gate from a fellow member , as well as the rest of fuel system. I ended up going with twin external walbros that will each have their own feed (-6)from the sumped stock tank, then will join via 2-6 to -8 y block all the way upto the the regulator witch I did mount directly to the rails. I'll build the harness, witch will be all weather pac fuses, and relay, and hobbs switch.

it's gonna be stand alone, relays turned on by pcm, second pump with ground from hobbs (4/5psi)of course. It will be monitored by a prosport gauge, and all fittings are some combination of push lock and an or quick connect.

Simple braket for reg mount so it's not hanging by fuel rail


Old 09-07-2015, 09:45 AM
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If you go with the Holley EFI system you can activate the second pump directly with the ECU, and you'll get wideband closed loop compensation and tuning ability.

Andrew
Old 09-08-2015, 08:22 PM
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Good job.
"Light" messaging.......( maybe deep tissue but still.... No grinders.... Or torches...)
Step in the right direction for sure.
I'm moving away from big caddy stuff as well.....
No more potter.... Etc....
Old 09-09-2015, 01:16 AM
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Thanks, yea I absolutely loved the 500, I whipped the snot out of it every time I drove it. Oh, she has some issues blow by, low compression, and and as tired as it was, melted the "tire" effortlessly =) but dam did that big girl like to drink! At one point I wanted to turbo the caddy motor, but for the the same reasons as you , the big block cads just don't have the support /availability of the ls stuff.


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